WJM

w!innAr.

yeah but stock pistons will not put up with what I am going to subject them too....endurance road course events.

I want the fast 04+ sti ratio...BUT...the 05+ WRX and STi racks attach different on the drivers side with 4 bolt locations. Since I have an 05 STi rack...I can play with it and see if I can make the rack work in an 04- subframe. WJM

sweet. Link has been shared!

Since ive got the MS-2...and some slight problems on the stock disty with the MS-2...I'll be going EDIS-4 soon. *goes to order parts*

ive run 20k miles on a 9.5:1 spfi bottom end, the rings started to fail at 19k, and by 20k it was 20psi compression all around. Right now, the engine that made 165/225 to the wheels has about 50k miles. When I had it, the engine was BONE STOCK in regards to internals. So it was 7.7:1 compression. Mods: TWE header TWE Downpipe STOCK turbo (VF7) stock injectors stock ECU STi TMIC basic 3 inch cone filter intake 2.5" exhaust from the downpipe back 14.5 PSI of boost. (yes, it ran LEAN past 5000) If I were going to build a reliable boosted EA82, I'd use 8.0:1 forged pistons from the 4032 alloy (ram engine has .020" over size in stock for $550 with new rings/pins/clips). Otherwise, use the stock cast 7.7:1 pistons.

No...9~10 psi with the stock header will be fine. When going to the TWE header and all the other stuff (big TMIC, intake, big exhaust) the injectors will go static and you will run it dangerously lean past 5200 RPM. Ive seen this on the dyno. With the stock header...up to 12 psi is safe that I have seen...even with big TMIC, intake and TWE downpipe...as long as you dont get boost creep. I have seen massively uncontrollable creep with JUST a TWE downpipe. You will need to port the wastegate opening if you get creep.

Its not worth it. Ive done it on a dyno back to back and have not seen any changes.

An old rump roast run down EA82T TD04L-13G turbo EVO 550cc injectors eBay special 'WRX/STi' big TMIC 2004~2005 STi hood scoop a bunch of piping to make it work...with a T-XS knock off RFL BOV MegaSquirt-2 EMS SMC Water injection kit D2 front coilovers w/450lb springs Tein for Legacy (2000+) rears with 500 lb springs Super Pro bushings in the back and the front leading rod Leading rod has 10MM offset bushing for added caster Corner balanced to 50.1% cross weight (total weight is 2582 currently) T-XS standard MBC (set to 14psi) US 2.5 RS front brakes with Carbotech XP10 front pads (full race pads indended for road course) 5 lug conversion, 2005 Legacy bolt in hubs in the front with RS brakes, all XT6 stuff in the back 20MM swaybars front and rear (XT6) Sparco tube frame race seat and (I forget brand name) 5 point harness DEFI gauges (EGT, Oil temp, oil pres, water temp) AEM UEGO gauge (communicates with MS for AFR) MSD Knock alert system "JDM STi" 350MM steering wheel ($25 on eBay) w/MOMO adapter for Impreza I think thats all the important stuff... I was running Rota Tarmac 1's in 17x8 with 225/45/17 RE070's for the street...but...explanation below. I have had to raise the front of the car about 4 inches from where it WAS at in order to make the 17x8's not rub in the front, and 4.5 inches in the back to do the same, as well as rolling the back lip up 90*. With it set like that, I ge nearly zero rub, and I have 1/4" wheel gap in the front and about 2/3" in the back. However, when I put the race tires on (15x7, 45MM offset, 225/50/15) I have about 1.25" gap in the back and 1" in the front...so I can definatly lower it more for race... The problem is also two fold. With it so high in the back the geometry puts the alignment at +0.5 camber, and -.2 toe out. That makes the car SUPER loose on transitions and turn in. While its really good for rotation, I lost about 2 seconds overall just going slower to make the car go around the course and not spin...thats why I locked the diff and drove it like a rally car on the last 2 runs. Had the car been more stable, I would have picked up time regardless....as its just plain loose. So, I'll go with 205/50/15 tires on 15x6 Legacy turbo alloys and lower it back down. I'll set it up for the race tires...and then with the street tires on it I'll be set. I dont want the better ratio of the EJ rack....YET. I like my tight turning radious. The EA82 pump I have on now starts cavitating really bad and does not put up to the heat under the stress of autox. I know that the WRX pump does. So I'm going to retro all that on it, uncluding the remote reserve and add in a cooler. That way I dont have to worry about. In the future I *WILL* be finding an 04 STi rack.

41st raw time out of 179, and 51st in pax out of 179. Not too bad for its first time out with this new stuff on it....

So today was the 1st autox for my RX since late 2005. I won SM (Street Mod...highly modified/prepped cars of all kinds...civics, A4's, STi/WRX, M3's...etc etc.). Things learned: 1. We need center diffs BEFORE front diffs. 2. We need front diffs! 3. No more 17's for me...the setup to run 17's on the street make the car way too loose on the autox course...so its time for 15x6's for the street. 4. Locking the center diff with the current setup=STi like power on oversteer AND WRC drift action....even on 225/50/15 Kumho V710 race tires at full temp. 5. Need EJ power steering pump. 6. Need forged pistons. 7. IC pipes blow off...but only once when fixed in a hurry in the grid. Moday I'll be calling JE about the pistons, as the current rings are starting to fade...filled the catch can with oil. I'll also be getting out the WRX PS pump and start fabrication on that.

We have to remember that the ppl here are on a budget...if they really wanted to do it right, use the AEM or Hydra.

Invidia catless.

Two pics I took while modifying the intake manifold coolant passage for the GM sensor so the MS can see the correct engine coolant temp. Ok, so three pics...but its still TWO of the turbo. You can see that i had to rotate the compressor housing some in order to clear the throttle cable...and it made for piping to be more simple. Also note the location of the MBC...works QUITE well! No boost spikes and great response and overall control.

Well, I drilled and tapped...so heres the fix when done...but still metal everywhere.

damned double post. This was for a coolant sensor.

Just dont use it were there's heat. I attempted to JB weld a bung onto the intake manifold in order to use the GM coolant temp sensor for the MS-II... I even let it set DRY and overnight... Didnt hold. Popped off as soon as the system got pressure. Oh well, time to start drilling/tapping.

Just dont use it were there's heat. I attempted to JB weld a bung onto the intake manifold in order to use the GM coolant temp sensor for the MS-II... I even let it set DRY and overnight... Didnt hold. Popped off as soon as the system got pressure. Oh well, time to start drilling/tapping.

Take one apart and you will see what I mean...

Here are the problems with the MS and adding an EJ to the mix. 1. Same amount of wiring work. 2. You'll be spending hours/days/weeks/months trying to solve the whole ignition/CAS problem just to get it to run. 3. No one has used the stock ignition system with a MS yet...so you'll need something else. See #2. 4. Unless you know what you are doing when you are tuning for power, driveablity, warmup, accell enrichment etc...you'll be hating life while trying to make the engine run properly. Just use a spliced stock harness and stock EJ ECU. It'll save you time, money and your life. *HOWEVER* When the stock cam/crank signals are decoded and the MS-II can run the engine on the stock ignition system....THEN if you understand tuning, the MS would be better.

Why no PS pump belt????????????

If you use a STOCK 2000+ legacy shock...it will NOT bolt on to the stock top mount. You will need to fabricate. I tried this already. As for the coilovers, they are intended for (or come with) different top mounts...and you can use the stock EA82 mounts with the tein shocks with very slight mods...aka cut one of the rubber bushings in 1/2 and you are done.

That works.

Interesting. *runs off to order a set*

its all off the shelf stuff. http://www.d2racing.com/html/index.html They are based in asia somewhere. They are really no better than any other cheap asian coilover. However, by FAR, the Megans are the BEST for the money. You can get a complete set for under $900 and they are SUPER awesome. If you want something better, be prepared to spend more than $5000 for a set.