WJM

but if it was leaking it would contenue to the floor. The pedal has to travel further down than before to get the same effect. It does not leak down.

I was just thinking that....... I got the front up in the air and the tires off..one of the RARE black dome top lug nuts decided it would blow up on me...messing up the stud and nut beyond use....now I need to change the firggin hub and find a nut.... The rotors have ruts of brake pad material on them.......so i guess its time to take the pads out, sand them down and sand the rotor off...re bleed the brakes and head on!

bump

Ok, so where are these brembos you guys are talking about?? And the kind of driving im doing to get the brakes that hot....Petter Solberg Style. There are alot of back country roads around here...VERY fun...and during certin times of the day...completely empty....so...WOT.... I bled the brakes this morning, and used some fresh DOT4. The car still stps well, it will lock'em down still...BUT the pedal is still soft...has lots of travel before the brakes really start to clamp down. Doesnt feel like the pads/rotors are glazed or warped...no vibration at all.....i really really bled the system well, i dont see how air could still be in the system. I guess later today or tomorrow, I'll be re bleeding the system and taking the caliper off to inspect everything. And...where do I find these slotted Brembos?

thats from an XT and features that elusive second bung....

Define "clean" vs "rotten" yes, they are the "3 Door Coupe" shells. One shell has been totalled a few times...it has the least amount of rust on it. The onyl problem area is the front clip....some of the front apron is crinkcled infront of the strut tower. The other RX...has rust issues in the main frame protions of the unibody...otherwise, the front end is good where the first one is crinckled. You could take peices from each and have a perfect shell. Body's on both are ok...the second one have a little more rust than the other....the first having some ***** wipe DRILL HOLE in the fender, door, rear quarter to PO RIVOT the original trim on....what an idiot. Otherwise, its got a faily new paint job and the front left fender had a sligh enounter with a tree....but I am keeping both sets of front fenders....unless i get a set of Fiberglass ones... Both shells are FREE if you come pick them up. They will NOT have: engine, trans, suspensions, interior parts, windows/glass (except for the rear hatch) and no body kit except for the rear wing. no hood or fender. What WILL be on the cars....the rear bodywork, top sheetmetal, hatches with glass and wing, bumpers F and R....and...maybe one will have a fuel tank. Otherwise, both are completely stripped. Again...FREE if you come pick them up.

Ive go TWO (2) RX shells laying around my house....what should I do with them? I am certinly not letting them leave...unless they are going to a good home, and Im not gonna send them to the crusher.

if you use our wonderfully functional search feature for "gear ratio" you will come up with this thread.... http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=19124&highlight=gear+ratio

there IS a part number for this!!! Those dealers dont want to deal with the old stuff anymore. When i get to work tomorrow, i will look it up and give you pricing and avalibility. I am SURE there are some left.

ok guys, this is SERIOUS. If Folger SUBARU were to offer performance parts....say... TWE header and Down pipe for stock turbo Ricambi Sport slotted/crossdrilled or both front rotors Carbotech Bobcat pads front and rear Delta Cams, both profiles (some brand)Intakes (some brand)Downpipe-back exhausts Would we actually have enough business to justify stocking these parts and going thru the trouble of setting up everything? Common, how many of you EA82T guys would get some of these things? im inline for the rotors, pads, header, DP, DPBE, cams and intake.

YYYYYYYYYYYYYEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEESSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSS!!!!!!!!!!!!! Although i think there was another page....the one that is Austrailia....as this one is in NY....but still.....SLOTTED AND CROSS DRILLED HERE I COME!!!! Bobcats now.....

1/2 or more is not good. Flush the rad with a garden hose and install new coolant, and a 180 deg. thermostat. If that doesnt solve it...time for a new radiator.

...and my brakes were on fire. Really. Flames, smoke and a stinky smell. So...some REALLY HEAVILY spirited driving...and the pedal got soft...but it still slowed well. Finally, came to a stop at an empy intersection....SMOKE rolling from the wheel wells....out of the car i go to investigate. Flame licking from the caliper. "Oh crap. Im on fire." So thinking back to Dave Coleman and Josh Jacquot's little rally article back in Sept 2002 SCC issue..."After crossing the finnish line, I immediatly go into a paranoid delusion that Ive mistakenly pased the finnsh control and must reverse back. Coleman hunts though the notes in fulility as the car begins to fill with smoke. Smoke? Holy crap. We're on fire. Several inebriated spectators carry on about the flaming brake pads as te errie orange glow they're casting on the ground gains intensity. We find the finish control just as the falmes dissipate much to the amusement of the control workers." Yeah..so i said, Holy crap, im on fire. Shrugged, and hopped back in. Kept on going...the brakes started to drag alot...but cooled off some...they still were smoking when i got home...adn contenued to for the next 20 minutes....and the pedal got REALY mushy. I better bleed them tomorrow. So....does anyone remember that webpage in the land of OZ that has those slotted/crossdrilled rotors for these cars?

So 390 MM is 15.354330708661417322834645669291 inches. And the Pug I was getting wheels off of....ONE (1) 15 incher, and THREE (3) 390s. ARG. SO disapointing. Dude has a red Pug with the 15 inchers I want....but evidently he's forgotten about it.......... says he only has one. I swear...hes got a RED one and a BLUE one!!!

SWEET! Im picking up buisness.... PM me monday morning, so that when I get in...i have a real excust to be doing old skool stuff.... I can say...Dude, im swamped with SUBARU orders. Ok, i DID by accident, lok up the shift shat...there are plenty of those left at about $3....the extension housing gasket...i didnt look that up, but its in the same FIG as the seals, so when i go back to get the seal numbers, i can get the gasket. At some point, we need to email and I need to get your info so i can get this stuff comming on the tuesday order.

baja, send me a PM about those lights, so that I will be reminded of them come monday morning....

It looks like PN 806716020 actually...for the 4wd. 2wd different of course. USMB price is $6.10 And there are 86 avalible at this time to me.....

Copy? Shane is lazy. :-p I will probably get some DOT4 and see what happens...and ruff up the surfaces...

Payment would be credit card over phone if at all possible.....the ones for $208 are NEW OE ones. I do personally have used ones if you want to go that way.

ok guys(and gals), ive seen a good bit of posts where people have called/gone to their local SUBARU dealer, and got this answer: "nope, its too old, the part is absolete/no longer avalible....etc..." or similar, or it cost them an arm and leg, or more. Yes, some parts will not be avalible. Yes, there are part numbers that are NEW supercedded numbers and are obsolete....but ive gone back and checked the OLD partnumbers, only to find that...yes, they are obsolete....but NO...they ARE still avalible! And...yes...there are some OE parts still avalible...like the Ignition coil for the 87+ turbo cars that are horribly expensive....$144, thats even the rock bottom USMB price....so yes...some parts are expensive. Most are not. So remember....if you get a No or too high price from your local scooby dealer...I am here. And you guys know from my posts and I am absolutely insanely picky about getting the right part for the old ones, and at the right price. So, either give me a call...email or PM me if you guys/gals need anything. Even New EJ stuff too.

Your 80 hatch, 3at, right? I just looked it up...looks liek some kind of outter seal and an oring past that one. BOTH are avalible, 41 of the outer, and 3 orings from Atlanta, my local warehouse. Price on each....about $2 each....although i might could do better once I investigate. Otherwise, if its a 5spd....its P#806718010, it goes for $5.24, and there are 68 of then left in the country. Dude, yet another SUBAUR dealer who doesnt want to help you out lied....they might not stock it, we dont either...but they are avalible from the warehouses. Its certinly an ACTIVE part number, and does not look to be gone/obsolete'ed for a long time to come....i can have this part to me tuesday if you call me today before 430pm eastern time.

SWEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEET.

If i dont buy this house im looking at.....I would VERY much love to have a hood and a set of RX fenders....or regular fenders would be fine, i could drill the holes for the airdam myself anyhow. Im wondering tho...would it be possible tomake the center "hump" of the hood wider to accomodate an 04 STi hood scoop...??? Otherwise Im in.

If you want OE ones, i can get you a set of 4 for around $210 USD, and i can have all four here ready to ship in a couple of days, and out to you for...my guess would be about $20 USD shipping, they would arrive in about 2-3 weeks. I do have a several sets at my house, used, but i do not know if i want to part with them yet....let me knowwhat you deceide.

For the last 3 years, my GL-10 sparted standard brakes...with the NAPA united pads...those Application engineered things taht are lifetime warrenty. It stopped on a dime, I made the pads smoke heavily on several occasions and it still stoped on a dime. No rotor warpage in all that time either...which is quite suprising. The dragon run a few months ago pretty well took the last life out of the pads...when i was installing the RX body kit, i had the wheels off and noticed there was a paper thin layer of pad left on either side...so, having a spare set of AE's laying around (originally purchased for the RX) and a long drive to Asheville that same day...I changed the pads. New AE's on, and the old ones turned in for warrenty. Now im just waiting for those new AE's to come in.... This morning...a first for this brake system....fade!! I strongly believe that on the Dragon i was braking later and way more heavier that this situation this morning, and I never experienced this on the dragon....anyhow, under some moderate-heavy braking under spirited driving this morning, towards the end of the "run" which lasted about 2 minutes...the pedal started to get soft and needed increased effort to come to a stop...its never done this before. This is the dreaded "brake fade", correct? If so...what do i need to do to kep this from happening....is it the heat buildup? Causes the fluid to boil? It does have DOT3 in it that is about 3 years old att his point...I would guess right off, that I should bleed the system and flush it out with DOT 4 and keep 4 in as perminent a resident...what else can I do? Any ideas?