WJM

Ok....bleed again...test drive....they ARE better...but still are not back to normal. Still....some slop. The right front locks up before anything else. Otherwise, with a good bit of pedal force...stops like it used to...but im having to use about 15% more pedal than before the "event" ??????????

Pictures are worth 1000 words....the words i need to put in....I should have got out with camara in hand and ready to go, instead of not...and having to wait for it to start up and blah blah....letting the "fire" die down. Edit: for those who want to know the conditions....my GL-10...3~4 mile straight road....WOT for all but the last 1/4 mile...got to 105 in no time...then CRAWLED to 120 @5600 RPMs....then no more, and held WOT, and for about 2 miles or 1.5~2 minutes or so...then end of raod....came to stop...."Maybe the turbo is glowing....HOLY CRAP!!"

Steven (Pleiades) and I tried to compression test an engine on a stand...ironically it also featured delta cams. No luck really....couldnt get over 30 psi out of any cylinder.... :-\

Ok, brake pads off and scuffed up REALLY REALLY WELL. I think I took of like 3-5 MM of pad off of each pad...and removed those shims. And....scuffed up the rotors well. Im going to bleed again...as the pedal still has a teeny bit of slop in it...with no vac in the booster and not moving....aka, sitting still. So...bleeding tiem again.

woops. Free bump

the XTs have more luxory in them...more weight. But they have the advantage of areodynamics, and you can stick wider tires under the fenders.

discs rear. Sloppy with drums would mean i need to adust up the rears....but...discs...Yeah, im gonna get my FSM in today and see what it says about bleeding. Im gonna de-glaze the pads/rotors better, as they look glazed.....guess i need to stop by home despot and get some paper of sand.

With some more detail on what carb and such...i could check on that peice.

Probably around 160-200 range....which is very possible with stock turbo, header, intake manifold and cams....once you get past the 160 mark...you need to go with some cams, something better than the stock header and turbo back exhaust....and then the stock turbo becomes the stopper...so, increase that bottle neck and you're free to go! And take a look at these threads: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum...82T+performance http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum...82T+performance http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum...ghlight=recipie http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum...ead.php?t=17330 (look at my second post down a little ways....the recipie is there too) http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum...read.php?t=2550 (good information in that thread about high compression turbo stuff)

DOT 4 is essentially the same as 3...but it has a higher temperature rating. MY SUBARUs are NEVER going to a shop to have anyone else work on them. NEVER. I am going to do the rust thing tonight I think....its worth a shot. But with a WATER hose, not a pisser hose. LOL I am planning to get some braided steel lines to replace those rubber ones....at some point. I guess I'll just have'ta bleed dem a-gin. :-\

Not really....I can assemble a list of gaskets tho. what gaskets do you need?

bewtween the 6-10 second range....possibly even 11-12.

Ok, bleed bleed, and BLEED....fresh DOT 4... Pedal response is...well, sloppy. Stops still...but...sloppy pedal. Glazed rotor/pads? Cooked rubber lines? frozen something or n-other?

i know one of the ball joints has play and needs to be replaced.

How do you know when you've totally toasted the front wheel bearings? Lately Ive had alot more rolling restiance like something is holding the car back.... I know that ive got one front DOJ with a bad boot and its starting to make angry noises...and the rear DOJs need some attention....

even a modded RX with cams, intake and exhaust (although very light on the exhuast) didnt break into the 15's....they are NOT drag cars. These cars are made for rallying and road racing. US figs are around 111-115 HP and 134 ft lbs TQ...and euro is about 136 or 140 or so on TQ...

Shadow, TomRhere, and Alex C. 2 more! spideyz: You should use some kind of fuel/oil rated line with a PSI rating more than 200...i used 300 PSI rated auto trans line and fuel line at one point. The benefits of oil cooling is, is it keeps the engine running cooler, prevents the oil from breaking down due to the extream temps of turbo charging...and greatly increases turbo bearing life when the oil is cooled properly. These adapters CANNOT be use with the EJ, EG, EZ engines. Those are metric thread...the ER, EA engines are SAE...you can choose whatever your SUBARU heart desires to connect this too. Lines, cooler etc.....

Ok...*NOTE: Prices are suject to change, prices listed are not a reflection of final prices* Larry at carbotech was VERY helpful with finding SLOTTED rotors and the Bobcat pads. Pads would sell for approx $110.00. There will be a required min order of 10 sets.... :-\ But hey, they ARE avalible. Great for street and autoxcross, good up to 900*~1000* F! Slotted rotors would be aprox $120 a set. There is no min order from him on those, but I would require a min order of 5 sets in order to stock them. What do you guys think?

Yall, im on the phone with larry at carbotech right now....!!

UPDATE: I can do $30.94+shipping, UPS. If I can get 5 sold, We will stock 10 after that, and we will have them in stock for as long as we get sales for them. Payment will be made to Fogler's now instead of myself. Although, we can still go with the old payment method (which is paypal) for the first 5. So....lets get 5 sold!

You could get 1/2 a turbo brat for about that same ammount after I get everything from JAPAN...since 1/2 of that body work and lots of other stuff is OBOSLETE. :-\ hey guys, dont call me until around 1200 EST...my cordless phone didnt charge over the weekend...its DEAD.

Have I PM'ed everyone?? Ok, the FSMs for the EA81...the last year I show for one is 1984...nothing that covers it specifically unless its included in the FSMs with the EA82's... So, price and avalibility for the EA81 1984 FSM is: $51.33 1983 is: $56.00 For some reason, the 82 is the most expensive and tha 80 is a little less.... All of them are avalible.

When I had mine installed, I used a cheap automatic trans oil cooler. Worked well. The mounting of it was up front just under the bumper...Unless you are doing some SERIOUS off roading, A thick mesh screen over it should protect it from anything. Something like what the WRXs have over thier intercoolers.

it goes inbetween the oil filter and the oil pump. its officially called a "sandwich adapter" hince why its sandwiched between them. The OIL PUMP is what pumps the oil thru everything.

Well, ive got the 89 shell that i is the 1st one i got...it need cams, proper suspension, intake and exhaust and the headgaskets redone in orger to run again...and a dash cluster...the 2nd one, the 3rd one ive owned, needs alot of work to be "to my likeing enough to drive more often than once a week"....the rear drivetrain is worn pretty well...needs new rear axles, the u joints and diff could really stand to be gone over and rebuilt, the dampers are sound tho...its rides well except for the drivetrain. the trans whines quite alot more than anything else, but it works well...altohugh 3rd gear is slow at time. The engine has NO bottom end at all, and the clutch....well, feels weird....the engine does do well in the mid range, and dropps off apropreately up high due to extreamly stock intake and exhaust. There is no body kit on either of them. Nether has a stereosystem...and the interior in either one is pretty well non existant...and whats left of the carpet on #2 is...trashed really. Brakes are HORRIBLE on #2...pedal is proper, but the pads/rotors just dont stop it like I want it to.the body is in well condition...with a few dents and rust issues here and there. It woudl do well for a daily beater...but i just cant stand to drive it...its got mud/snow tires on it, and its jsut very sloppy with those tires, and with it being stock...its....i cant drive it like I want to. To get it where i want it...would take time and money I dont have. So...sadly, it will be parts soon. Plus, the unibody is rusted internally pretty badly, so all that time and $ woudl not before anything. I plan on buying the GrassRoots Challenge RX that Pleiades has (the second RX i owned) the body is in near perfect condition, as with the rest of the car. The only thing wrong with it when i got it was the head gaskets. Its shortblock is in my wagon now, its strong. The GRC RX has a redone engine and such, its nice and strong with a modified exhaust, intake and delta cams. the HVAC system works properly in this one as compared to the other 2 RX's and the sound system is intact...so it woudl be a nice daily driver. There are really no issues with it, other than its RWD right now. I'll fix that when i get it, and put stock cams back in it...as those will go into the wagon. That RX will be baby'ed and drivin properly....while the wagon will get the ultimate Petter Solberg treatment.....track events, autocross, maybe some rally cross, and all out power experimentation. Brakes, handling....etc...