WJM

Dude, I want one....but i dont need the bend to clear the trans tho...and you can just put, like...4 inches worth of that 2 inch pipe after the collector in a stright line... How much? Dont need an O2 bung either.

The entry is closed. I called the chairman to make sure i could simply show up and register....and yup, i sho can.

Da loud blurry blue wagon...black RX body kit and snazzy black hood scoop...

I hope there is no rain sunday and the college grounds are dry'd out by then... My IC and the recirc/BOV puts me in SM...oh well...ive got R compunders to get me hooked up now.

Yeah, what ^HE^ said.

I know something you dont know....about street mod....

UUuuuuhhhmmmmmmmmm.......buy an 86 turbo car and not worry about it? Seriously, I have no clue on how to build the FCD.

you mean the side skirts and the rear peices too? or the actual mid line trim???

A few have...skipper, subaru tex, and...oddcomp? I have not, since i never had a fuel cut issue....and i have an 86 i primarily work on.

There are exceptions to the rule i posted...its *SUPPOSED* to hit fuel cut....the two RX's i have now never hit fuel cut, and I ran them around 16-18 PSI at times. Mostly they stayed around 14. The other RX, Pleiades current one, will hit it ocassionally...but its not a regular cutter. The turbo's exhaust turbine provides all the backpressure that the system needs.

Back pressure after the turbo must be as low as possible. Its up to the cams, header and everything else infront of the turbo to make you move when you want to move. Making the TBE smaller only increases spool, backpressure, and decreses high end performance. Turbo exhaust characteristics are not the same as NA.

- What is a good bolt up turbo for the money for a 88 Turbo Wagon? TD04, VF10, VF11....etc... - Can I use a XT pressure plate and disk/throwout/pilot? Its the same thing. Use an XT6, as it can hold more power. - What's the Accel part # for the Super Stock Coil? I would not recommend these any more...as many of the newer ones are starting to crap out, and mine seems to be inconsistant nowadays... - What kind of intakes are you running? Ive got the basic 3 inch ID "typical rice-boy" cone on a MAF adapter plate bolted to the air flow meter/MAF. - What's the general consensis on intercoolers? What works best? For the best in directness and staying with SUBARU stuff...a WRX/STi/Legacy TMIC works best...the WRX ones can be had on ebay for CHEAP. - Would a 3in turbo back be to big? Too small. Anything from 2.5 to 3.5 should be fine. - How about cross drilled/slotted rotors in front? Do not go drilled. I can get CarboTech slotted rotors. - How much boost can we run before fuel cut? depends on year...anything from 85+ will be 9psi. The 85-86 flapper style (pre-MAF) has an overboost switch which can be unplugged, therefor allowing infinate boost. the MAF cars are stuck at 9 PSI until you find some electronic way around it. Ofcourse, with a TD04 or larger and IC and full exhaust mods...you should not need more than 8.5 psi. I can get you a TWE header and downpipe too...the header will bolt any IHI turbo, and the TD0x series (13G, 16G and 20G). The DP only fits the VF7, but there are plenty of aftermarket ones avalible for the new style 5 bolt turbos. See this thread: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=19658&highlight=performance+dealer And this one: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=19634 Also, these as well: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=19813 http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=19817 http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=19816 thanks for looking!

Dude, get the WHOLE car. you will need axles and rear diff and drive shaft....dont forget that you would really enjoy attempting to do the 5 lug swap with those aprts and haveing a BIG BIG Brembo brakes on that sucka too.....

I would....but I DID take out 2000 a while back to do up the RX...but i ended up spending only 1200 on it...as the rest went to other things....then I paid that off in short order. Then...took out 3k...purchased another RX, paid off some things...and had the $ to buy and fix that DL wagon I had, and then fix the turbo wagon's engine and stock up on suby parts. Now im paying that off...so its not like I can jsut go get another loan now.

why would I go and buy an ECU thats thousands of $, when i can build my own for less than $200 and control spark as well??? Plus its FUNNY tunable, even on the run and you can make maps for any condition you want...etc etc...

Just had time to sit and read over the whole thing...... Well put out information you guys! And from everything ive seen and read.....unless everyone who wants to do an EJ swap gets a donor car for free/really cheap...its gonna be around 2k~4k or MORE to do a proper EJ turbo swap....for 2k i can make the EA82T outrun stock WRXs and be reliable. All i need it 200~220 HP...thats easy. Delta cams, spyder+xt6 TB, TWE header+turbo back on TD04, re-vamped intake, big rad and oil cooling. Little things here and there too...like new cap/rotor/coil/plugs, play with the timing, 10w30 mobil synth. oil, go thru and reduce drivetrain loss and other engine drag losses... im sure someone will point out..."if its that easy, then why have you not done it yet?" Well...ive hit the brick wall of not having the time to do the proper work i want to with the spyder/xt6 TB setup, TWE is not making headers yet, i dont have a TD04 or $ to get one, i HAD delta cams but sold them and I WILL be ordering another set soon, i DO have a revamped intake, ive done 90% of the little things and i dont have what i want for oil cooling yet.... But when i get thosethings...i'll be way ahead of the game since Ive done al the things that donet require more than $10 to do and I play with the timing, like...all the time. even when i sleep.

it seems as if the mobil 1 15w50 engine oil i used in my FT4WD trans cleaned that shellac off the syncros...as 4th was slow and 1st didnt want to cooperate above 15 MPH....now I can slam into 4th can get into 1st around 30.

MUHUHAHAHAHAH!!!!

LOL LOL LOL LOL

Check the connection at the fuel pump. my GL-10 did this a few times until I fixed the connector.

if its not a turbo or MPFI engine...a FULL SIZE tire and wheel will fit under the hood on the assigned place.

ran out of time to look that up...me need to do tomorrow.

190 crank...133 at the wheels. 321 crank with 225 at the wheels...assuming the dyno conversion is correct. But, im using the AWD conversion factor....0.7 Stock USDM WRX: 227 crank, and ~160 WHP.

First off...if he only got 225 with those mods, then somone is smoking crack nd didnt tune it right and it had some problems. Ive seen SERIOUS gains ALONE from just a DP on those cars. ANY inline engine is NOT better. it requires ALOT more work to remain in one peice. Its only got some tiny caps holding the whole bottom end together...SUBARU has AN ENTIRE BLOCK holding the bottom end together. The onyl reason taht 2.0 is more effecient, is due to the 4V per cyl and DOHC. Now...bigger turbo and FMIC with lots of boost on stock ECU? possible...but ONLY 225? thats not much. these counter balancers...are you talking removed fromthe crank? No wonder...the engine was vibrating its self part! Sure, I could go the easy route and swap in any EJ engine and get some more power...or jsut do WRX/STi swap and be an aftermarket baby and spend spend spend about 9K to get it where I want it. Or, spend $3~$4 thousand on the WHOLE car as it sits now and go as fast as a stock STi. Ive driven an EJ22 suby...and an EJ25 DOHC (a legacy GT and Outback)...and they are NOT faster than my GL-10. Ive also driven several WRXs. stock 02 sedan, stock 04 sedan, stock 03 wagon, ECU+Downpipe+catback+monster TD04+slight intake mod+im forgetting something else+STi V7 suspension w/prodrive spings+prodrive P7 wheels on really sticky tires+bigger sway bars+im forgetting something else again, and all were great SUBARUs. Tough, fast, agile, and just a great fun car. I would NOT own one until i have enough money to where I dont even have to worry about a job. I cannot leave it alone and let it stay stock...im gonna "WRC-ize" it...or something. Same with all 3 RX's ive owned. Same with the GL-10. the GL-10 happens to be the lightest of the bunch, the one in the best condition, the most luxurious of them all, and with the increased weight over the rear as compared to an RX...its balanced better. So that will be the car that beats out a stock USDM 04 STi. it CAN AND WILL DO IT. the EA82T's heads are amoung the BEST flowing 2v per cyl heads ever creating from the factory in the world. The block is CLOSED DECK from the factory, its ROCK SOLID. There with the EJ20G/22G, EJ257 and EJ207. /rant

Tom Penner....TWE. And from places and articles a while back from NZ and the land of OZ...