WJM

Dude....I think there are some serious wiring/vac line problems. I woudl star with this....restore to stock fuel system...and go thru and re vac it. As for the oil pres....i think wiring has something to do with it. I personally liek the idea of the fuel system you've got....but I would personally go back to stock and work with it....it seems lie a fine system to begin with. Sounds very electrical and vac'ish to me....

Did you check the gas tank yet?

out of the bottom of the evap cannister....yeah, it goes to the ground infront of the radiator area. Check the intake hose and make sure its on the turbo tight...and the AFM is hooked up (duh) and watch out for the PCV piping being brittle and breaking or cracking. I had that problem....hince the PCV system I have now.

Coolness.

Yes i did all the work myself. Did i know what I was doing? Nope, not a clue. LOL I did some guess work, but mostly I knew what needed to be done to fit the kit on there.

Try the new gen forum for that..... Speaking of that switch for the P lights....we had a customer come into NAPA just for the reason of "why wont my lights go off?" I walked out, seen the switch, and said "SUBARU has this nifty switch right here....*off*....see? Sometimes you might bump it accidentally....etc..." "Wow, didnt know that....strange, but neat. Thanks...."

It doesnt matter now, its works. I need to clean the contacts in the switches again tho...they are carbon coated. This time...dielectric grease. This window thing is like the coolant issue on it....everyonce in a while, it will jsut leak coolant from somewhere for no reason. I'll shut it down, look around, not find anything, refill it...warm it up, poke and prod around...find nothing, and drive to whereever I was going and nothing would happen. GRRRR. Thats why I run stright water now. LOL

Lowering: I used stock 2wd struts on the front...used a common 5.5 inch ID spring that was 450 lb rate, and 8 inches tall...used a portabland to trim it down to 6 inches tall. The rear has what was 10 inch tall 2.5 inch ID springs, 450 lb as well, cut down to 7 inches riding on stock XT 2wd rear struts. Before that I has 250 and 300 rear, 8 in tall front and 10 rear...the front was about 1 inch taller, and the rear awas about 1.5 or 2 inches. I also was using RX struts on the rear with those.

Ok, so i woke up yesterday morning...and what happens? the windows majically work again. Go figure.

Thanks to Warp3, i wasnt the ONLY Old School SUABRU there.

Yeah I thought it was on funny....but i was not sure, cuz it was dark and I had no RX with the side skirts on it to check...and i was too lazy to come inside. Funny thing is that it fits better back wards than the correct way....maybe that is because they sat in a HOT car for most of the day friday and they kinda of warped a little....they will be taken off and put back on correctly some time soon tho...i want my back doors back! And I want to fix tat trim peice and see if it fits with the skirts on.... The side skirts are really a direct fit...the air dam is tricky. Gotta drill holes in the fenders...and they are really ahrd to match up right....took some waller'in out of holes and re drilling a could of times to get bot sides correct...plus somr trimming behind the air dam on the air dam peice its self to get it to stay put and look right....there is really only 2 small 10mm nuts holding it on right now.... The back ofcourse needed to be trimmed. Otherwise, those two peices were the easyest of them all. The air dam took the longest. The Side Skirts are aggrivating when you dont have anyone to hold up the otherend when test fitting.

Its an RX body kit...minus the rear wing mind you.

Finally.....its done...mostly. Some small details to work on and it will be perfect. As you can see, the rear doors wont open and I had to peel the turbo specific trim off the door....I hope to trim is someday and have that peice back on and the doors opening. Also, the rear kit you have to mutulate to make it right....subaurstyles i tihnk might have done a better job than I. Also....subaru styles...how did you over come the rear door opening issue? I think its AWESOME looking now! Lets here it!

So I am working on the body of te GL-10...and when i go to put things way...the power windows dont work! The drivers mast pannel doesnt work....ever other one does.... I wasnt even touching electrical wiring on the work i was performing.... so jsut to check...WHERE does the main pwr window harness run? Or ANY pwr window wires to be exact... I want my windows to go up and down fomr my master panel!!!

EA81: 1781 CC OHV Single cam 2 valves per cylinder pushrod engine.. Simple and easy to maintain....will run forever if maintained correctly. Power is not so much....turbo version was avalible....but even it was only around 94 hp or so IIRC...I hear that you have to adjust the valves on some early EA81s...some later ones, or some that came with automatic trans later on had hyd. lifters and you did not ahve to adjust it. I would not choose this engine because of the valve adjustment issue, the carb system, the lack of real flow in and out of the heads, and its a pushrod engine...i dont really like those. I would choose this engine because its a peice of history, it would be cool, you can build a potent off roading engine with the right parts, and it will run forever. EA82: 1781 CC, Dual cam, SOHC, 2 valves per cylinder, hydrualic valve lash adjuster engine. Twin timing belts. T belt drives oil pump and dizzy. And engine that came is all kinds of different configurations. Two different carb setups, Single port (or throttle body injection) fuel injection, Mult Port Fuel injection, and MPFI+TURBO. You could get a 136 HP version of this engine from the factory over seas....but here it is rated at 97 HP for the MPFI N/A, and 105-115 for the turbo. Carb and SPFI are around the same...somewhere between 85 and 95 hp. I would not choose this engine because it "tends to eat hadgaskets, chew up timing belts, is unreliable, over heats, carbs never work right, the SPFI/MPFI is a PITA to troubleshoot and is not worth fixing, the silly thing is turbocharged, oh look - its OHC, TWO different cams too! Too many things to go wrong....oh the turbo crapped out, and the bearigns got wiped out...etc" I would choose this engine because....if you change, or have the timing belts changed every 52,000-60,000 miles it will run forever. Change the oil too. The SPFI version is would out a doubt the most reliable and rock hard tuffest engine Ive ever seen/abused/drove into the ground (and it rose back up!!) the MPFI N/A version I imagine is the same way...ive not owned one. The Carbs Ive not owned either, but hear they are a pain stock if something goes wrong..... Definalty, you cant go wrong with a SPFI EA82. What can go wrong is if you but an EA82 TURBO, and use some crappy regualr oil, fram filters, 87 octane fuel and drive it. It will blow up. Ive done it. EA82T is the most capable engine SUBARU had made...well, gotta hand that official title over to the EJ engines now...but this one comes in 2nd place. Its CLOSED deck (as well as ALL EAxx engines, except for some REALLY early ones that we never did get) and appears to be medium pressure cast....that translates into a STIFF block that can withhold high amounts of internal stress...read: POWER. Just run mobil 1 10w30 synthetic in it, keep the engine cool, invest in a recurculation valve for the turbo, use 93 fuel in it and bump the timing....and just drive it as hard as you want. Id take an EA82T over anything any day.

There is a really extreamly simple way to keep water and crap out of timing belt area......

I might actually get one of each in a month or two...since I have a great job now.

You really need bump stops.....im LOW and I know this for a fact!

Bump.................. http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&postid=6956834#post6956834

I dont frequent I club....but i do the South East forum of NASIOC. Mostly nice people. I know Warp3, Pleiades and a few others personally....Dale Teauge of boxer4racing.com is tha man! Infact we are having a meet in western NC saturday. I hope to get some old skoolers out there. Check out the threads in the meet forum. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=17635 http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=18447

Bump......... http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&postid=6956834#post6956834

You better.

Shane..........

True. Open up the exhaust and intake...mucho improvement.

The connectors are different. I have not tried this....but i want to. I believe that the AFMs are more accurate than the MAF's.....