WJM

Oh, and it doesnt matter which way the MAF or AFM is....i will turn mine sideways just to prove it. :-p

To tell you guys the truth....I am shooting for a custom header...and place the turbo in like in one of my other posts....so its will be a custom 3 inch TBE. A spyder intake with an XT6 (or same size or larger) throttle body bolted on. Stock ECU and engine management and timing system for now. WRX IC, and the BOV set for a factory style reciculation. Boost....12-16 PSI. Stock for a while tho. Also a new MAF/AFM to turbo pipe. Anywho....Tex, I sent you a PM....if you go back to stock cams, and want to get rid of the ones on it now, I'll gladly take them off your hands.

*Note to self: I must read this thread when I have more time, my presense is required here.*

I think it will be fine since I will show up in my 1986 GL-10. unless Warp3 Brings his 86 RX sedan, we will be the only two Old Skoo folks.

Interesting.

How to install a VF22, and take care of all the clearance issues for the intake...and what to do about exhaust....well Id want a high flow header and custom turob back thats 3 inches...that turbo wont fit in the stock location and use such an exhaust. Well, lets do this. It will work great. there is plenty of room in that space for that stuff. Lets tilt the turbo. Less bends for the exhaust to flow in...more power. Less bends for the exh to flow out. More power. Less bends for the air flowing INTO the turbo. more power. I ahve not toally worked out the turbo compressor outlet stuff yet....but, I imagine that it woudl be no problem. Ideas, rants, comments?

what is the exact location of the parts you need on the hatch? ive not seen a hatch to know alot....quater pannels and rocker pannels....a pic with the areas that you nee would be great. It will be wed before I can get into and look for them.

Man, I tell you what, if i were not on the other coast, Id have that thing running like a scalded dog in 10 mins.

Yes, like FACTORY new....if they are still avalible.

Yep, MASS AIR FLOW. Its a sensor that tells the ECU how much air is entering the engine. The idle control valve needs to be plumbed in somewhere between the MAF and the throttle body. I believe a stock WRX or STi TMIC will do just fine for anything...short of a VF34 or VF22 running something like 20+ PSI. Ive got a stock WRX TMIC, and one of those hood scoops like calebz has waiting to go on. Its a WRX imitation scoop...can be found on ebay sometimes. Cost me $15.

Ok...so today, I installed a pair of 5.5 inch $40 3 way speakers on the front....and a pair of $unknown (came in another SUBARU i purchased) 6 inch 2 way speakers in the back of the GL-10.....installed a DEH48 Pioneer CD player unit along with it. Well....after finiding out all the correct wiring by useing the very cool SEARCH feature on this board....and seeing that i dont ahve the time or patience today to run ALL new wiring for the speakers...i tried out the common ground. I found out that if you just use the front speaker ground as the grounds for the sides (or just the rears i imagine) then the sound is pretty good! VERY acceptable, even up loud! But...if you use BOTH fron and rear grounds in together...the sound starts to distort and get really crappy and no more bass at even modorate levels. The only issue with using just the front gounds is that if you so desire to fade to the rear speakers only....they will be weak sounding...and not much bass...you will have to boost it. I imagine that is reverse situation if you use the rear grounds. I am not worried because I will use all 4 speakers WOT most of the time I used the DIN adapter plate that came with the project RX...and there is a little slot below the main DIN slot....there WAS a peice that went into that slot to cover it up...i cant find it. Does anyone have one they want to part with? Thatd be great if so! Once i get the drivers side speaker fixed, loose connection, I'll be set to go! Just need to fix the no window tint situation, and make the AC system cooler and flow more air, and I will be riding in style the rest of this summer!

Sure thing. We should do that. Between Steven and I, it should be running perfectly.

Coolness. How does it run with that setup?

Same wiring as my 86 GL-10. Wahoo! The search feature is way cool. :cool:

Ive got an extra one of those valves somewhere. The tank....open the trunk, pull back the carpet. There will be a plate held down with 3 phillips screws. Take those out. Then, there are 6 or so 10MM nuts holding the sending unit on/in the tank. Remove those. Pull the wires for the sening unit up, and unplug it. now pull the unit up....then you will have to get the unit sideways so the float will come out of the tank. There. Now, shine flash light down in there, and yu should be able to see the bottom of the tank. A LIGHT coat of rust is normal.....my GL-10 runs fine with that...as well as some other N/A wagons ive worked on. If its rusty rust rust...and you can scrape it away wih a scredriver or something, and debris is moving about in the gas when stirred....oh my....you better take the tank out and flush/clean it REALLY GOOD (I never tried it) or replace it with a near new one, or one that only has the very light coating of it. For me, the whole process of checking the tank takes, at most, 10 mins. Oh, and the plate will also be sealed with a type of really thick RTV type stuff thats ULTRA STICKY. That stuff should stick the plate....just pry up one side of the plate with a screwdriver, and and then its removeable by hand.

Well guess what....its TOMORROW already! So get to cracking!!

If interested I might could get some new OE SUBARU ones....

Dude...its been THREE days and you ahve not checked the tank yet? Geez....get on the ball, errr, SUBARU!!

Youve got a Legacy TURBO....AWD, 4EAT trans, made 06 of 1993, Airbags...what a steal. A sedan too.

Bah....I'll reasearch, and do, and see what happens. lol

Yeah, Gus is here. I would say that we can beat those prices...but I'll ahve to double check. I know that we ahve great parts people here now...and before Pleiades and crazyhorse started here....this was not the most desirable place to come to for parts and service from what I hear...so...change this time is all for the good! But crazyhorse is not contributing to the parts/service...cuz hes in sales.

I am at Folgers. Ive heard bad things about Hunter on the SUBARU end tho.....but I'll check them out to be sure on that. I do not believe that ive seen the justy, or that wagon....but it sure would be kick ***** to see! Maybe we could meet up....at the WNC meet on July 17th? There is a thread on it in this forum, and in the meet/greet one. Thanks for the congrats you two!

yeah, that will do it too. lol BUT...even after rinsing out my GL-10's tank...and using fresh gas....it still did it. the rust contamintated it somehow, and it never ran correctly. So...$10 and a small trip to local SUBARU guy....almost brand new condition fuel tank. WOW...it runs perfectly now!!

Yeah, that oil form the EA82T is REALLY HOT! Thats why on my new engine...the one that will have the BIG Delta Cams, WRX IC and mucho boost....plus some more high air flowing into and out of engine goodies....im going to get a cooler setup that does not have a t-stat and will be full flow for the oil at all times...large lines and large core. Its going to be a full out racing setup. This is...the experimental engine.

I dont know the EXACT years of the turob Legacy...i know its somewhere around 92-93....and was not here for long, like the Turbo Brats. No...the 22B is REALLY 380 HP....FACTORY spec SAYS 276 or 280.....but so does the STi Version 6, 7 and 8....but is really about 320. Even motortrend says the 22B puts out "about" 350 HP....they tested the car in person too.