WJM

interesting..........

Because I am insane. Edit: Seriously tho...i was thinking about using an air to water IC....but instead of water...and a pump and rad....i was going to use liquid Nitrogen...and a special pump that uses electromagnetic feilds to absorb energy from the intake air charge...it uses that energy to power its self and circulate the Liq. Nitr....it doesnt need a rad...cuz the pump assy absorbs the heat energy. The more heat, the more effient it is. Something along those lines....

what happens if my air intake charge is NEGATIVE 335 deg F. on my EA82T?????

Wow shadow...when we chatted i didnt think your post would be that informative! There you have it ladies and gentlment! I say to the folks who dont believe....just wait and see.....

look at this thread too: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=15350&highlight=xt6+throttle+body

Ok, gas ones... what if I vacant the gas, and pour in some thin fluid....????? increased dampening rates? Yay or nay?

I tihnk that at the 200 hp level, i could get 20k+ miles out of it with proper maintinace. I got 24k out of my 9.5:1 engine....but the shortblock already had 80k miles on it, and after the teardown, I found out that I was running it too lean with my adjustments to the Air flow meter...and the O2 sensor was not working right....but not enough to throw a code on the ecu....therefore burned valve and premature rings failure. Plus I had a problem with detonation ALOT with running on pump gas.

$4G's top.

The RX stuff is KYB, and the non RX is the Tok stuff....i believe that the WRX and such is KYB as well.

Ok....what are the factory struts? Gas, or liquid? Aftermarket....you have a choice of gas and liquid....but most aftermarket OE style replacements are....what? gas or liquid? In this place where you can get all kinds of race car goodies...ive seen different 'weight' damper fluid for motorcycles...most notibly its for motocross and the like... Here is what I was thinking, could it be possible (yes it is, anything is possible for me!!!!....but lets try to get realistic for once... ) to drill a hole in the stock struts...drain the hopefully thin fluid...tap the hole so a plug can screw in....then fill the strut back up with thicker stuff....thereby hopefully increasing the dampening rates...?????????????????? It seems that....upon my last search...no one was willing to revalve/rebuild the stock or aftermarket stuff....at all. The aftermarket stuff avalible is NOT going to be suitible for my endeavors in suspension modifications....AGX and GR2 is what I hear is avalible for the front and rear respectibly.

Ive got a euro ECU from a 1986 EA82 Turbo.....ironically it does not work with the USDM EA82T for 1986....

And take a look at these threads: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=10738&highlight=EA82T+performance http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=15670&highlight=EA82T+performance http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=17619&highlight=recipie http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=17330 (look at my second post down a little ways....the recipie is there too) http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=2550 (good information in that thread about high compression turbo stuff)

here is what you need in order of parts... Header TBE (turbo back exhaust) Spyderintake with XT6 throttle boddy attched some sort of Intercooler setup Clean fuel system ,good NGK plugs and good wires, quality cap/rotor for disty (for good measure) some kind of cone filter(i use an APC style 3 inch ID) bolted directly to the MAF/Air Flow meter A mega squirt and DIS system would not hurt at all (the DIS and MS alone would probly about 20 hp by itself on a 100% stock engine) run about 12-14 PSI boost high flow MAF/AFM to turbo pipe And the final key... The Delta cams....with the 260 profile for streetability still there, or the 272 for all outness. It can be done. It WILL be done, and it will be proven to be reliable as a daily driver. Tuning the timing is also a key factor on these engines...they are very sensitive in that respect...the NA's not so sensitive.

I dont care about seeing who gets it done first.....i just care about it getting done and proven that it CAN be done, im tired of people thinking it cannot be done. I want to go kick some butt with this old stuff.

Way to go Shane! The RX coupes are 2670....id like to get my racer RX back up and going, but its just...alot of work that needs to get done on it for it to roar to life again. It stripped down, so I imagine that its around 2300 lbs as it sits.

Canadian model specs may differ from US model specs.

Yep. I dont have the $ to buy the TWE stuff, but I have the stuff to make some.

I think....that its not going to take that much $ to get it as fast as a stock WRX......IF i had the cash at this time to spend on it, Id say it woudl take between 3 and 4 thousand to make it right and as fast as the stock WRX.

Yeah, according to numbers Ive seen, the GL-10 puts in at around 2700-2800....thats about 200-300 lbs lighter. I am only shooting for 200-250 hp with mostly stock stuff....internals *ex. cams* ECU, fuel system and some other things.... I think the handling can be sorted with some victoracers and camber. (of course, other things too) I am NOT going to do 5 lug. I will go with either peugeot wheels or stay with 13's....as you can get some really beeft R compounds for it....plus Ive got about 60 tires for FREE....they are all 205/60-13 BFG Comp TA's....the Victoracers are only about $97 a peice from tire rack. I am NOT going to do an EJ conversion. Im going to stay with old skool stuff. RX trans, LSD. RX dampers to start with (maybe move to GR2 and AGX if they are not strong enough). Ive got an XT6 clutch set attached to an 18lb flywheel.... And that magic engine recipie I was talking about. Lower control arm bushings. Some rear suspension bushings. Rear Toe.....out! Strut tower brace.

Stock WRX....which are really the same from 93 and up for ALL Imprezas....but im not sure if the STi uses the same or not...there is no listing for the STi according to my Dealer connection...and thats just USDM specs.

The rear....the axles was rubbing on the exhaust pipe, and the boot on the other side rubbed the coating off the gas tank. I think ive figured out the ride height issue with out getting more springs for the rear..... Ive, in my head, designed some re-enforcements for the front strut's spring perches....and got some bumpstops that should be 100% better than original....both front and rear.

Yeah....im close to hitting it right. All i need to do is get the rear ride hieght correct, front bump stops, and proper or close to proper dampening...and ive got it. Oh and the all important spring perch re-enforcements on the front struts.

Time I have right now....i dont really have a job. Money I dont have at all. Dedication comes and goes as I see things on the new subarus there already make them faster from the factory....but then i see that I dont have the $ to just buy it...and I think, I'll make the wagon as faster or faster...then the dedication comes back. LOL

Insane GL-10 project...or not? Goals: 1. Make as fast as WRX in a stright line (up to 120 MPH at least) 2. Make lateral G's equal or better than showroom stock USDM STi 3. Make it killer on an autocross course and track (lower speeds, below 140) 4. Make show quality. (Hot Imports Nights.....gave me some ideas....but no fancy crap) 5. Make it reliable enough for still remain preactical for Daily Driver. Tall order...or short order? Who says go for it, and who says no way? Is it possible? Yes... no doubt. Ive got the magic recipie for the engine...and im almost there on suspension....just need some $ for the engine stuff...and some materials for the suspension.

Auto or manual? 3AT is normal to run those RPMs at said speed. 4WD trans is normal to turn those RPMs at speed. 2WD....2800 at 60 MPH tho.