BillAileo

Have you owned the car since it was new? Is there a possibility it was previously involved in an accident that may have somehow affected the control device that sets off the air bags? Have you ever had any dashboard warning lights come on regarding the SRS system? Knowing the answers to such questions would be helpful to you in determining the reasonableness of your various options. Bill

Trouble Code P0120 is the code for a problem with the throttle position sensor. I believe that sensor on the '96 is located on the side of the throttle body. It's a fairly simple device to replace. I think you should be able to purchase one for about $60. Recommend you start by making sure its wiring harness has not come loose. If it's properly connected there is probably a good chance with that code that the sensor is bad and should be replaced. I believe a failed throttle sensor puts the car in "limp home mode" which would be consistent with the symptoms you are describing. Good luck. Bill

I recommed you get access to a Haynes manual or other appropriate guide and learn how to check the clutch cable adjustment. If you are lucky, that could be your problem. Bill

I had the same connector problem with a '96 OB. My conclusion was that the last time I had replaced the bulb one of the prongs slid in adjacent to, but not into, the corresponding slot of the connector. This led to arcing and ultimately a fried socket. I went the junk yard route and got a "new" connector with about six inch leads which I soldered into place. Worked just fine. Bill

There is one other difference between push start and key start: the position of the ignition switch (run versus start). Is it possible that is a temperature sensitive intermittant loss of contact happening at the ignition switch that is causing this? Bill

FWIW: I had a bad experience using aftermarket wires on a '96 OB which disappeared as soon as I replaced them with OEM. The only non OEM wires I now use are Magnecors. Bill

"hmm... your not supposed to gap the platinum plugs." I don't believe that's true for all platimum plugs. The most recent set of Bosch platinums I purchased included instructions on setting the gap..... Bill

Although it can be caused by bad converters, I believe code P0420 is often the result of degraded O2 sensor(s). Replacing the sensors it not a major undertaking (although doing both will run about $250 for parts, and ? for labor). Our local dealership claims the sensors are not covered under the emissions warranty. Bill

I've had the Fumoto valve on three Subarus, three Volvos and a Toyota and its made oil changes much quicker & cleaner. The first thing I do when I get a new car is buy one. The actuation of the valve requires two movements and accidental activation would be extremely difficult to cause. Bill

I'll rely on Setright to explain why, but I have adjusted three Subaru's with slipping clutches due to the cable and all three of them started their slipping in high gear. In at least two of those cases the clutches are still doing fine more than 50,000 miles later (and after more than 150,000 miles total). Bill

Powederhound, I believe with a 98 legacy 2.2L you have mechanical linkage for your clutch. I think the best first step for you, after melting off any ice/snow restrictions,would be to confirm the clutch cable is properly adjusted. Slipping can easy occur, particularly in higher gears, when the cable is out of adjustment. Many dealers/repair shops ignore this possibility and immediately suggest replacing the clutch. You might bet many more miles out of your clutch if it only needs a cable adjustment. Bill

Assuming the 2000 Outback clutch is similar to the '96 clutch I would recommend that you have the adjustment of the clutch cable checked before going to the expense of a new clutch if the only symptom is slipping. Two years ago my sister was told by a dealer that she needed a new clutch at about 125,000 miles because her's was slipping. An adjustment of the cable, however, ended the slipping and she's been driving it for these past two years on the original clutch with no problems. Bill

State, Are you sure you have two O2 sensors? I thought cars generally started getting equipped with two sensors for the 1996 model year and the introduction of OBDII systems. Bill

It's also possible that the clutch cable needs adjustment. My sister's '96 OB had similar symptoms a couple years ago & I adjusted her cable and it's been operating fine ever since. Bill

I hope questions about brake fluid are within the scope of this thread. I had never heard of DOT 5.1 brake fluid until I was surfing for sources for Castrol LMA brake fluid. Apparently 5.1 is NOT a silicone fluid, but is a full synthetic with favorable characteristics and fully compatible with with Dot 3 & $. Anybody had any experince with this stuff?

FWIW: Several years ago I had problems with mice and someone told me they hate the smell of Irish Spring. Since then I've left an open bar of soap in the vehicles and so far the mice haven't returned....

Wouldn't hurt to take a look at the air filter.

Welcome to Pennsylvania! I think you'll notice a lot of Subarus on the Commonwealth's roads as the leaves turn beautiful shortly. But then plan on occasional winter washings of the underbody of your Sube because this place uses lots of salt.... Bill

c150l I don't know why the link isn't working for you. Maybe this will get you to the article: (1) Go to http://endwrench.com/main.php?smPID=HTML::home.html (2) Select Archives (3) When the Archives screen appears go to the System Search portion & scroll down to select "Engine Mechanical" and then click on "Show System(s)" (4) When the listing of articles appears scroll down to the Fall 2000 article entitle "2.5 Liter Twin Cam Timing Belt Replacement" Hope that works, Bill

I think you'll find this article very helpful: http://endwrench.com/pdf/engine/FtTimingBeltReplaceF00.pdf Good luck, Bill

It is my understanding that the "bank 1" reference has no meaning when applied to a car like yours that only has one exhaust bank, but it would identify which bank in a dual exhaust situation. I would also guess that you may have an O2 sensor issue or a problem with your cat. converter to be getting this code.Bill

Do you have access to an ohm meter and feel comfortable using it? If so, there is an interesting article on diagnosing Subarus at http://www.babcox.com/editorial/ic/ic30332.htm That suggests checking out the knock sensor using an ohmeter as follows: The Knock Sensor will have a DTC of P0325. If the harness appears intact, test the sensor at its disconnected harness connector. Check resistance between terminal 2 and ground. The Knock Sensor should have at least 400 k/ohms of resistance. Bill

In theory, additional undercoating may seem like a good thing, but I have grave reservations about adding it. Some of my reasons are: (1) Drainage is critical to rust avoidance, marginal application of aftermarket undercoating can plug drain holes. (2) Some apoplicators creat new holes to spray their products. Not sure that's a good idea (3) Unless the car is absolutely dry when new undercoating is added you can be sealing in mosture. FWIW: I also live in an area that uses a lot of salt. Rather than more undercoating, I try to occasionally high pressure wash the underbody of my cars in the winter period in an attempt to wash off salts. Bill

Assuming the specification for the rotors on an '02 are the same as for an '03 the following are the rotor speficications: Front Rotor: Standard thickness .94 inch Minimum thickness .87 inch Rear Rotors: Standard thickness .39 inch Minimum thickness .335 inch If you've already had these turned twice, you may be approaching the minimum. Have you been replacing the pads after you have the rotors turned? I believe that is highly recommended. In addition, some after market pads, particularly those that claim less dust, can also generate more heat, which means, in my opinion, more trouble. Bill

According to the pdf owner's manual on the Equus website their OBD-II reader stores the codes. The fact that you could still read them after it was disconnected from the car doesn't mean they weren't obtained vfrom your car's computer. Bill