87.5ea82txt

Better yet, I would replace them before testing again. Take note of which cylinder you pulled the plug from that has the discoloration if it returns. A compression check will rule out a cracked head.

Not sure about your case, but green usually indicates oxidation of copper. If you want a reliable indication of your cars fuel/air ratio, clean the plugs and do a full throttle run in 3rd and kill the engine before lifting your foot off the pedal.

The charcoal canister on my ea82t xt had a fat hose underneath with a few bends in it. It didn't go anywhere.

I just got home from the GF's and jumped the CTS connector and.... It worked! Thanks everyone for their help! I would still like to know where that relay is for future reference. Next on my list is: Remove timing belt covers and inspect timing belts and check for leaks. Replace Water pump Replace CTS I was informed that I'll need specifically an ea81 AC equipped slim drivers side fan. I'm hoping pooparu has one to sell me. If not, I'm still looking.

I read that the ea82s ac engages the belt driven fan. From what I have gathered, power runs to the coolant temp sensor, which is the switch to a relay where it grounds. Power also runs to the fan to the relay where it also grounds (or someplace after like on the frame). If that is all the components, then I just need to figure out where that relay is and I can get it working again.

I got a rebuilt factory rear axle a few days ago from partsgeek. I believe it was $120 with shipping and you get $50 for your sending your old one in. I pulled it out of the box and it was CLEAN. Looked Like new. Ill report back when I get the old one off and this one on. Hope they don't mind all the dents Ive put in mine trying to get it off.

Where can I find this relay? Your right, running the fan amperage through the CTS would probably not be ideal. Good tip on the back up switch. I'll make sure to install one.

Awesome tip. Thank you, Miles. So when wiring up the the new fan, I can splice the power from the passenger side fan so it runs when the key is on. Then, if the coolant temp sensor in the radiator works, but a fault exists downstream, I can run it to the same ground as the new fan. That would make things very simple and easy to diagnose.

So I was looking in my service manual, and for the xt, it had shown the wiring diagram for the coolant temperature sensor as running from fusebox> relay> fan> ground. This can't be right if I have power coming from the fan. It also shows that the circuit from the relay makes it's way back to the computer on the xt6 model. Now, I'm not so sure if this cts has control over the computer on my 87.5. The other coolant temp sensor on the thermostat housing has one wire coming from it. I just assumed that was only for the gauge on the digidash. Does anyone know the answers to this, or where I could find a wiring diagram so I can diagnose this? I'm away from my car right now, but I'll be pulling the cts sensor and testing it hot water to rule it out. I may also experiment with disconnecting it while the car is running cold to see if it runs any different.

Sorry, Double post again.

I think what I will do is power the left side fan torun all the time by splicing after the right side and run the coolant temp sensor to ground(assuming it is working properly) to kick on the right when it gets hot. I don't see the need for ac control with this type of setup.

"the electric fan is ONLY wired through the thermoswitch in the radiator. it is unaffected by the A/C system. So, the only way to insure airflow when the A/C system is on without re-wiring the car is have a fan that runs all the time." Well that explains why the electric fan doen't kick on when the ac is turned on. I thought maybe I was just low on refrigerant. That still doesn't explain why the fan has not kicked in at temperature and why the car is running better cold since I cleaned the connections to the coolant temp sensor. It is for BOTH is it not? or am I just crazy?

Sweet! got an ea81 fan coming from pooparu. It's electric.. boogie woogie woogie:banana: Says he has about 20 of them. I figure, if it saves me money on gas and pays for itself, it's woth it. Now just to figure out how to wire it and the passenger side up.

I'll do that. Even if I don't replace them now, I want to see how they look. I have had the fan off once before and replaced one of the idler pulley bearings. Electric has always been an afterthought until the recent gouging in gas prices. The only hose I have needed to replace around the spider was the small one from the the thermostat to the block. The vacuum hoses all seem fairly flexible and uncracked. I've replaced turbo coolant hose. Had to remove the turbo to get to it, but I clocked the compressor to match the inlet angle of the intercooler while I had it off. I replaced both radiator hoses, heater hoses to the firewall. and....I'm thinking there was another one....Anyways, thats what hoses I replaced thus far.

double post

Nice! I'm looking at possibly getting an ea81 fan if the price is right. What is the depth on the ea81 fan and will it be a direct fit? There are other holes on the radiator.

I went out and tested it again, this time I pulled the spade connectors apart. there is battery voltage to and from the fan. voltage at the CTS. I swapped the two relays on the fender. ac kicks on with either, but still no fan. I jumped the fan and it does work. Where do I test now?

I cleaned the connectors on the coolant temp sensor last week. They were by far the greenest, nastiest connectors I've had the joy of coming across. For the first time, the car actually was driveable when started cold. I took the fat white plug apart and sprayed some MAF cleaner in it, as well as the fan connectors on the blue and yellow wires. They weren't too bad. I tested 13v on the blue and 3v on the yellow. Or maybe it was the other way around, but there was a 10v drop across them. There is also a brown connector with a wire jumping it. What's up with that? Oh yeah, and the fuse by the two relays on the fender is for the 4wd correct?

It's hard to see down there until I pull the fan off to see for sure, I'm banking on it being the water pump. I'm toying with the idea of using an electric fan instead of the belt driven one. If anyone has a left side ea81 fan, I would gladly take it off their hands. Speaking of which, I'm trying to figure outwhy my secondary never kicks on. I cleaned the connectors for the fan, the coolant temp sensor connectors(I only saw one sensor on the right side of the radiator), and swapped the connectors on the wheel well, and no fan. The ac kicks on when the connectors are swapped, regardless. Am I missing something? Bad fan motor? It worked when I first got the car, but quit shortly after, just like every other piece of electronics on this car.

O.K. I don't see any water from above or from the metal line to the water pump. The water flows fast down the engine. It must be the water pump. So, I may as well replace the timing belt, oil pump, and all that other fun stuff then?

I'm starting to think it is more like another hose....maybe manifold gasket? I'm going to go investigate some more. I just read I'm not supposed to put cold water in a hot engine. OOPS! Won't do that again.

Normally yes, it does run cool.

I blew one of those heater hoses last week and the temperature gauge maxed out fast, but only a minute or two had passed since I had last looked at the temperature and it was normal then. I shut it down, pulled over, and topped off the radiator with the container of coolant I keep in the trunk for just this purpose.

I've replaced most of the hoses under the hood, trying to keep up with all the leaks and my constant filling of the radiator. I thought I was done fixing leaks, then......Dun. Dun. Duuuuun.....Now I have coolant running down the front left side of the engine at the seam of the head gasket. From what I can tell, it doesn't look oily, and gooey. Does the water pump sit right above this area? I'm guessing the fan pulley is it? What's a quick and easy way to tell where it is coming from?

The 4wd rear struts are 2" shorter than the the 2wd rears. I have the full 2wd suspension on my 4wd xt and used 2" blocks on the front to level it.