87.5ea82txt

My front left axle has a torn inner boot and the outer popped off at some point. The wheel has a jerk to it at times and the outer part knocks/squeeks. I have a boot for the rear inner. Will it fit the front? I also have an extra bag o grease for the outer that popped off. Should I repack and reboot, or save those items for the next boot that tears?

Installed.

Installed.

It usually comes down to how much rust your willing to deal with. If my car hadn't been repainted at some point, I'm sure it would have holes in the fenders as well. The underbody is fairly soft. The floor usually lifts a bit before the car does. I'm comfortable with the car eventualy being a parts car. Thats why I don't mind beating it up a bit offroading it. I just want to keep the wheels from falling off in the meantime.

Before the wedge, I had crxs of all generations, and ALL of them except for my del slow (east coast repaint) had rust holes somewhere.

Ill replace the nuts with larger to get better surface area on the rims. Great tip, Miles. Any suggestions on where to get a good deal on lugs and nuts besides the junk yard? My friend works at a machine shop. Is a milling machine pretty quick and easy to set up? If they don't have one of those, what bit do I need to do it on a drill press? I feel the cnc machine is a little overkill.

What have others done in regards to the uneven backsides of the hubs before installing the lugs in the new holes? I've read that people have ground them flat and welded in new material or even ground the lugs, and others do nothing at all and seem to have no problem.

I do like the idea of a skid plate. Possibly a few separate plates that cover the whole underside of the front of the car, bolted on and reinforced by steel tubing. It would have many lightening holes throughout to keep weight down and provide airflow. I bought some 15" wheels and a set of 215/75-15" General Grabbers. They may very well outlive the car. The tires should be in by the end of the week. I'm going to have my welding friend take the wheels with him to work to have them drilled, as the chuck on the prehistoric drill press here on the farm is jank.

You can have it! I got a new bushing for it a few years back and I bet I've bolted that clamp down a half dozen times, only to have it pop back out a few miles down the road. Maybe because of the longer 2WD struts? I think I read somewhere that flipping the sway bar over relieves the stress from lifting. I read your runabout thread....and WOW. You did a very clean job. Nicely done. My dad is an International Harvester mechanic and has all the welding, grinding, and cutting tools I'll need, as well as scrap 1/8" steel. I went to school to work on aircraft and am very skilled at making parts out of aluminum, but I'm a riveter and not a welder and have never tackled this type of surgery before.. I do however, have a friend who can weld the sharp ends of two razor blades together and make it look pretty. Cutting out the rusty pieces at right angles will make sizing up new plates much easier. I can grind the high spots down with a grinder as I fit each piece. I'm thinking I can remove the mounts for the radius rod, cut away the part of the subframe that it bolts to, bolt it back on, then fit a piece 1/8" steel with a hole drilled in it under the bracket. bolt it on, weld the nut to the back side, and box it in. Where should I jack the car up at? I watched some thing a while back on welding in a piece of tube steel to connect the subframes on early American unibodies, and they made a point to jack the car up at the center so that when rested on the wheels, the car did not sag and the doors closed like they did when the car was new.

I would like to save my 1987.5 GL-10 XT, and was wondering what I can/should do to replace the subframe. I was thinking about making some sort of bolt in skid plate with X bracing between the rails. Where the seatbelt used to mount...

Just looked at your pic. Yes, that's it. No, I would remove the whole unit. Disconnect the end from the box and the other from the tube and disconnect the harness. Make sure it has plenty of time to dry after you spray it down.

Some used flapper style pre 87.5, some used hotwire(87.5 on) at least on the xt's. Its going to between the airbox and your throttle body. If you want to learn all about fuel injection systems, I would recomend the book "How to tune and modify engine management systems". They reference much the bosch L-jetronic system like whats in our subies.

I bought the wheels. I had to travel a little over 100 miles to get there...but they look nice! The guy said they were off of a Mitsubishi. I rubbed a bit on a spot with what looked like light surface rust, and it cleaned to a mirror finish. I put a straight edge to the edges of the stock rim and hooked a tape measure to the inside of the rim and measured 1 inch. 2.25 inches on the Mitusbishi wheels, but they have a fatter lip. So I would guestimate somewhere between 1-1.25" wider. The guy also threw in four CB radios with two mics for ************s and grins.

Nice! Looks like yours sits at least an inch higher front and rear than my car. Did you drop the engine/trans/rear end? If not, how were your axles? Do you still have it/drive it? Here's another pic of those wheels, if that helps. I think I'll get them, and if I have rubbing problems, either sell/trade them, or drop everything and go higher. Well, I let the that pesky water pump bolt soak for a few days, heated it up with a torch, beat it with a hammer, and pried it off with a big dull screw driver. What a pain! The bolt came out with the twist of a sharp vice grip. The ac bracket mount bolt in the engine head won't budge, so I stopped before I chewed it up too bad. I'll try welding a nut on it next. Here's what else was in the box with my "new return" water pump. The thing in the bag is what I would imagine to be a rubber gasket to seal between the pump with the timing belt cover.(throws in trash) Not sure which gasket to use....surely not both? Here's how I strapped the fan down. As long as the zip ties don't get pinched at the bottom, it should be ok.

I would disconnect the wires from the coolant temperature sensor and jump the wires and see if the fan comes on. The corrosion was really thick on mine, and that's what kept it from working. There should be power to the fan, and power to the coolant sensor, then to ground. The CTS is the switch for the relay that grounds the fan. If one of those circuits has a bad connection, your fan won't work. Disconnect all of them and clean/test/replace as necessary. I'm wiring my main fan in parallel to the secondary, tapping my hot side by splicing from the secondary, preferably before the fan. The main fan will run when the key is turned forward, and the secondary will kick on by temperature as normal. Just use a low profile, low amperage fan.

This probably the most extension/compression I've ever had on the car. I normally don't drive like this, but I know I'm going to want to when I do put big tires on it. I could see the rear tires hitting the fenders If I tried big angles like this though.:-\ How different would it be without the sway bars? Worse? Should I forget about the shiny offset wheels and keep looking?

Looks like someone beat me to the lower drain bolt:lol: Where should I get a new lower plug and o-rings for the plugs? This is kind of how the 10" fan model# G4902 from Summit will look on the radiator. The destructions say to run the zip ties through the radiator.:-\ I was thinking, for now, just running some gianormous zip ties through the original mounting holes. Or maybe some safety wire till I can get my hands on some scrap aluminum. ....And a little off the subject while I'm uploading pictures... What do you think about these 15"x6" wheels on a 4wd xt with 2" blocks on 2wd xt struts on the front and 2wd xt struts on the rear? Does it look like the offset is going to cause rubbing issues with 215/75-15" tires? The price is right and I may be picking these wheels up in a few days. It's extremely windy out, so I'm a little hesitant to play with fire right now..

This is what I was calling the "timing Bracket". I brushed it with a piece of chalk so you can see it better. It goes in increments of 5 up to 25 degrees. You can see the broken bolt in the top left hole. Look at how much hay and dead grasshoppers fell out when I pulled out the radiator!!!!! The stuff on the belts is just my cigarette ashes.:cool:

And yes, I removed the front covers and they are staying off. The timing belt looks like it was replaced not that long ago and is not oily, so I think I'll wait till I decide to replace it to remove the back covers and replace the cam seals that appear to be leaking.

I'm at work right now, but yeah, it's an angled piece of metal that is bolted to the water pump by the top two bolts. The left one I twisted off at the head so welding a nut on it should work. Ill try heating the pump tomorrow and let you know how that goes. I also twisted off the head of the ac bolt in the engine head. That one will need to be drilled. Thanks for the input, guys.

While trying to remove the water pump, I twisted the head off of the top left bolt that supports the timing bracket. All the other bolts are out and I can wiggle the pump, but can't get it to slide off. The broken bolt seems to want to wiggle with it. What to do? In the box with new pump was two slightly different gaskets and a key, but what for?

I got a kit from oreillys for a fair price with a lifetime warrenty. Good clutch. Just have a friend that works at a machine shop plane the flywheel.

Ordered the fan. $64.90 with shipping for me. Also got a beck/arnley water pump from rockauto for $20.

Or better yet..... a leak down test would give you a better indication of your cylender's status including valve leaks.