87.5ea82txt

Sounds like a vacuum leak to me. The airflow meter tells the ecu that there is more flow than is actually being delivered to the engine causing excessively rich conditions and the symptoms you describe.

4wd rear xt struts on a 2wd xt should lower it about 2", likewise rear 2wd xt struts on on a 4wd xt will lift it about 2". Not sure what you can do about the fronts other than shorter springs as the xt front struts are the shortest ea82 struts unless you go with a 5 lug swap and impreza lowering springs and struts. There should be write up on that.

Anyone know how I can post the actual video instead of just the link??? Now that I think about it, I've got a magazine article from '88 that I'll have to scan and post. The article mentions a 260hp twin turbo H6 prototype engine that was supposed to make its way into an XT

So I'm guessing the general consensus is that I should just keep the radiator?

Sorry about the rant. Anyways, this is the radiator they sent me. Its got some fin damage. Should I send it back or just install it and hope that it doesn't leak?

This is the first turbocharged car ive owned, but ive had a 88 taurus, 86 crx si, a 90 crx si, and a 93 del sol si with a cammed b16 with nitrous, and none have drained my wallet as much as this car. So far, I've replaced both front cv axles, soon a rear axle, front struts, rear pads/rotors, tires, clutch, starter, battery twice, water pump, all the coolant hoses, cap and rotor, plugs, fuel filter, an idler bearing, muffler, air filter, heater resisters... some things I've added for performance- electric fan, ford tmic, blaster coil, 2" lift blocks, and 28" general grabbers on chrome nissan 15" rims (which I have yet to have the joy of installing since I need different front struts and extra lugs) Some other problems I have with it- the drivers side seatbelt doesn't work, the passenger seatbelt is gone, none of buttons on the left pod work because the innards are broke, the radio is mia, the wiper randomly turns on, the key doesn't match the doorlocks so I can't leave anything valuable in it, glovebox is stuck shut, heater speed 4 doesn't work...I probably wouldn't mind as much about putting all this $ into it if the frame rails were not completely rusted out. It's doomed to be a parts car if I can't replace the sheetmetal.

I went ahead and bought this one. I really need to get my car back on the road. It just seems like every time I replace something on this car, something else breaks.:-\ I'm about due for a new stearing rack and new rear struts next. This really is the most unreliable car I have ever owned. Over $2k in parts that I've had to put into it, and I've maybe had the joy of putting 5k miles on.

Crap that is a ton of good info! I would guess between 88-91 models because of the xt6 listing.

So if the automatics came with dual cores and the manuals with singles, does that mean that the automatics with ac had thicker radiators with more forward mounting ac condensors? I see some radiators listed as being for all transmissions, but specifically for non turbo models. Are they different between turbo and non? I see plastic radiators listed for much cheaper? Should plastic be avoided? Is that part # just for the specra radiator? If so, do you know where I can look to find the subaru part # for cross reference?

I did not know that. So I guess there really wouldnt be much benefit to swapping it. Can you recommend a good aftermarket brand?

My radiator seems to have sprung a nasty leak. Does anyone know if a double row radiator will fit in an xt and will the hoses line up the same? I was also considering ditching the ac and converting the ac compressor to an air compressor if the space allows.

Museum collection? Possibly Subaru's own?

Thanks. Yeah, I saw that slight indent in the edge of the pulley, but I wasn't sure if it was put there intentionally. I'll pull the rubber bit after work and check it again from the flywheel to double check. Oh, and it Is a 5speed 4wd for what it's worth.

I'm trying to set the timing on my 87.5 xt turbo and I'm having a hard time figuring out what I should be lining up here. I know the timing should be set at 20*BTDC, but I was thinking about setting it at around 18 or 19 to be on the safe side, since I've got alot more flow going on and sometimes boost hits about 11lbs. Will it make a difference if it's idling @700rpms or 1000rpms? Is there anything else I should do besides connecting the green connectors during this process?

Right on. Check out djtechtools if you haven't already. Great forum. If the kaoss pad didn't come with a user manual, find one. Because there are hidden features if you press more than one button at a time.

Just out of curiosity, do you dj? If so, what type of music do you play, and what gear do you already have? Just wondering why youre interested in the kaoss pad.

I was offered a scratch mixer with a built in kaoss pad for $120 a few weeks ago.

Now you guys that don't seperate the balljoint, are you removing the bolt that the lower arm pivots on, or are you removing the bar that some people like to extend on their lifted rigs. I removed the lower balljoint on my car and am having a hard time getting the lower arm to go down far enough to get balljoint back into it. I'm also having trouble getting the doj to slide the rest of the way on the shaft to give me the space I need to get the hub to move in far enough to get it over the hole in the lower arm once I do get it pried down. The swaybar has already been removed.

Im thinking about just sucking it up and having that exhaust place put a full exhaust on it. I guess I could always sell it to another member on here if I decide to part her out. What size tubing should I go with?

Ok, so I busted out ye old tape measure, and if I cut the cat off at the weld, ill have to get a glasspack that is no more than one foot in length, otherwise it will hang lower than the cat does now. Looking through the summit mag, I saw thrush glass packs that are 12" with a longer overall length, but I could easily cut it down to the length of the body. Does anyone know of any other short cheap mufflers that might work?

I tried joining about two weeks ago and have yet to get a confirmation email.

So what did you end up using to control your fans?

Oh, I think I get what youre saying there foxman, youre saying that I would only be able to use the muffler since the xt pipe goes over the rear axle, and the wrx, under. If that is the case, It most likely won't be as simple as cutting off the down pipe where it bolts to the turbo, and welding on the other.

I found a guy who wants $100 for a '04 wrx exhaust with 90k miles on it. Says it's in good shape. Is that a fair price? Should I buy it?

The wrx exhaust would definately be nicer than just a glass pack pointing down behind engine, and would be legit. I would still have to cut and weld, assuming that it would line up decently. How much would you be willing to pay for the downipe on back? My main concern would be ripping it off in a rut going down a trail. My only other option would be to take it to the local exhaust place and pay $400+ fire a professionally done setup. But that just seems like more than I would be willing to pay for an exhaust for this rusty subaru that may eventually end up a parts vehicle.