87.5ea82txt

This is where I drilled the new hole. [/img]

So with the bleed through to the wastegate design, the wastegate actuator is going to see no signal until the boost pressure rises enough to lift the ball off the seat, which explains the high boost pressure at low throttle and the huge boost spike. With the bleed to the atmosphere setup, one would run a line from the compressor to the wastegate actuator and put a T with the mbc somewhere in between the two. Then lessen the tension on the spring until the boost pressure in the line overcomes the spring tension and lifts the ball off the seat, venting pressure to the atmosphere and increasing boost pressure. So this works pretty good? How does the stock computer control setup compare to the mbc venting to the atmosphere set at the stock boost level? Does the computer modified solenoid work some extra torque in there on spool up or is it pretty comparable? As far as I know the engine has 105k miles on it and has never been pulled apart in its 23 years. I figure 10psi should be pretty safe with an intercooler, high flow intake, and for an exhaust, it ends after the cat, which is hollowed out. I've got an msd coil and I gapped my plugs a tad wider if that makes a difference. I briefly played with mbc and took it off after the way it ran. I just recently rotated the compressor housing about 20 degrees or so to better line up with the angle of the intake of the intercooler. When doing so, I marked the wastegate actuator in its original position, rotated it, and drilled a new hole on the bracket to bolt it up. I've only driven the car a few times down the road and back to see how she ran and it wants to boost around 12psi...so really, decreasing boost is the problem now. I was just curious what the deal with the mbc was. I'm thinking the actuator is sitting a little further away now and the extra spring pressure is holding shut the wastegate. I'm going to try and widen the hole and rotate the actator about 1mm closer and see if that lowers it down some. Or what if I just bypass the solenoid and hook the compressor strait to the actuator and see if that lowers it at all. If thats the case, then I may not need a mbc or computer control at all.

Has anyone experimented with manual boost controllers on the later hotwire MAF ea82t engines? The ecu normally controls the wastegate actuator controller solenoid to either send a signal to the actuator from compressor pressure or pressure between the MAF and the compressor itself. One line runs from the solenoid to the compressor housing exit (Boost pressure), the other, to the intake boot (atmospheric pressure- or less than depending on how much cfm is currently being drawn from the compressor in relation to air filter restriction to create negative pressure in the intake). I have experimented with placing the mbc after the solenoid and even bypassing the solenoid entirely and have encountered the same results. The turbo seems to max out 17+ lbs! at even low throttle settings. Kinda makes it work like an on/off switch. The mbc is one that I made from brass fittings from the hardware store with spring and ball bearings and a 1/16" bleeder hole in the side to allow pressure to escape. I did not install it backwards. I even removed the spring and ball bearings so it was just a bleeder. No change. I figured it would run like stock except boost a little higher. I even taped over the bleeder to see if that would change anything. It didn't. Has anyone else encountered this?

I did something similar to my stock turbo when i rotated the compressor housing to match the inlet of of the thunderchicken intercooler. I marked the position of the actuator in its original position, then drilled a new hole to make it line up. I have not driven the car much since then but now it boosts around 12psi. I am thinking that I rotated it a little too much/not enough and it is either binding and preventing some movement or if its just compressing the spring a little more. Did you notice any difference in max boost pressure pressure when you did that? Here is a picture of where I drilled the new hole.

Nice. I think that would work best for me. I'll just have to see how much I can get a used set for cause those things are not cheap. I went out and measured from the center of the axle around the wheel well to get an idea how close I was to the fenders. A 27" tire is is a real close squeeze but I think it will work without too much hassle as long as the offset is right. Ill probably have to cut away some material from the front of the rear wheel well. I don't think I"ll have a problem with that as mud collects there anyways.

So how are you manually filling them up? I guess one could hook up a schrader valve and go about it that way as long as you didn't have to constantly fill them and make adjustments to the pressure.

Ive got an 87.5 xt awd with four lug hubs and coilovers from a 91 fwd xt so it has a little extra height in the back. Ive been toying around the idea of drilling out my hubs and fitting some 14" toyota truck wheels and I believe I saw some 27" mud tires for that size wheel. Since these are a smaller tire im wondering how well would these fit in the cars wheel well with its current height without a whole lot of beating and cutting on the fenderwells? My front struts are shot so my front options are open. Would the 85/86 Loyale adjustable struts fit my front four lug hub setup and how does it compare in length to the xt's when adjusted to it's highest/lowest setting? I figure if I can raise my front struts about 1/2"-1" from where its at now to the level of the taller rear it would be close to the cars original level height when the air struts were in high mode and provide a little extra clearance for the larger tires while not having a too negative effect on the wear of my axles. Ive been reading up on the 2" strut tower spacers and have the tools to make the parts myself but I'm wondering if that necessitates the the spacing of any other drivetrain or steering components and if I will be able to use my front and rear sway bars. Or I could replace the front xt struts with the same struts and flip the top of the rears to lower the rears to be closer to the awd xt rear strut and use the 2" lift for a medium lift and less necessitating the need for modifying other parts. Anybody have any good ideas? I dont plan on getting too crazy with the car offroad, im just looking for some extra clearance and traction for the occasional muddy dirt road or snow drift. Im trying to find a happy medium between the cost and extensiveness of lifting/beating up my car/axle wear/keeping my swaybars when installing the larger wheels and tires.

This is where I redrilled the the actuator mount to line up with the compressors new angle.

Heres a picture of one that I put on my 1987.5 xt. I had to rotate the compressor housing a few degrees and relocate the the wastegate actuator to match the new compressor angle to match the angle of the intercooler inlet. I used a hose barb and 1/2 inch fuel hose to connect to the original bov or recirculation valve whatever you want to call it. Then I found a piece of mandrel bent piping from the intake of an old IH combine I had out back and cut up the radiator hoses from the engine to connect it. Recycling at its finest! when I put it all together the car now wants to boost around 12psi. I believe that when I relocated the wastegate actuator I may have rotated it a little less/more than I should have and extra spring pressure is what causes the car to overboost slightly. But hey, Im not complaining. Another interesting side affect is that the computer didnt activate the fuel cut after several seconds of running at that level. Im not sure if this is all because the computer hasnt yet fully adjusted because I havnt ran the car very much since the new setup so ill just have to see what happens.

Thanks! Good guess! I was quite the honda nut until I found this car. My last car was a del slow with a 287whp b16 on a 70 shot. Yeah, I know. The wing is a little much but I had it lying around and it is functional so I figured what the hell? Here is a few more pics-http://c4.ac-images.myspacecdn.com/images01/120/l_e82b5bfdbb48b1eab44471e61e15a0bb.jpg

Well hello! I've got a 1987.5 subaru XT awd turbo 5 speed with 105,000 miles that I have been working on for last few years as a project car. I bought the car completely stock except the previous owner replaced the leaking air struts with coilovers from a 1991 fwd 4 cylinder XT. My current mods include- top mount intercooler from a thunderbird, custom intake, exhaust currently hacked off after the hollowed cat which will soon be replaced, msd coil, new cap/rotor, ngk widened gap plugs/wires, new clutch, rebuilt axles, new bosch starter, new battery, new fuel filter, new coolant hoses, boost gauge, all fluids replaced with synthetic, and possibly a few things I can't think of off the top of my head. the car only has about 1,000 miles on it since I installed all of these things. The car came with the original owners manual, date of original purchase booklet including the card of the dealer that sold it and the warranty booklet. The car was repainted at some point so there is no visible body rust but underneath there is a few rust holes in the front subframe which I'm hoping is repairable because the rest of the car is in excellent shape. All the electronics are in good working condition and the interior is great except for a few cracks in the top of the back seat vinyl. Feel free to ask me any questions.http://www.myspace.com/64359268 This is my myspace link if you want to see more pictures and information on my blog Here are some photos-

Ah, OK. That makes sense now. A while back I was thinking since the back end sat higher that maybe I could swap some XT6 springs in front while I'm at it and stiffen and raise the front a bit to match the rears to simulate the height of the airstruts in the high setting but I guess that wont work either?

I meant would the custom suspension setup on the subaruxt.com site that was installed on the XT6 work just the same for my 1987.5 ea82t XT awd currently with complete 1991 fwd 4 cylinder XT using the same parts that they used for the front and rears. Also, is the camber kit required or is that optional? I believe the part number for the rears in the list below are XT- Parts required: Front Struts for a 95 Impreza FWD KYB GR-2 # ???????? Adjustable Spring kit for a 93-96 Impreza, From B-Bay Seller Name : t4rac (2) Adjustable Camber Strut bolts from an Impreza (2) Standard Strut bolts from an Impreza (2) Top mounts from XT6 (can be the top mounts off the air struts or the Coilovers) Rear-(A) I ordered (2) rear KYB Struts from http://www.thepartsbin.com Part number # L4000-19670 at $45.85 each (free shipping over $50) ( Next I order a set of adjustable Coilovers for a 93-97 Impreza from this E-Bay seller ?t4rac? For $37.88 + $29.00 Shipping . This kit came with springs for the front and rear struts for an Impreza, which weighs almost the same as the XT6 so I figured it would be a close match. (I?ll be using the fronts soon J ) © A can of paint (to repaint the mounting hardware) and a can of undercoating to coat the are you will be beating on?.J (D) A can of penetrating oil is handy also

Ive got an 87.5 Ea82t XT awd 5 speed that has the air struts replaced by the previous owner with coilovers from a '91 fwd XT. The front struts are worn out now and I'm not a huge fan of the extra height in the rear from the fwd rears. Im considering the hybrid suspension swap as done on subaruxt.com site. I was wondering if that would work just the same on my XT as does the XT6?