Dj7291993

I've got a 2000 that I picked up with a blown motor (turns out they don't run great on no oil). Put a reman'd engine in it and now use it as my daily driver. I love it. The glass headlight lenses are nice, as they are still clear. 140k you'll want to make sure it's had timing belt, plugs, and other basic maint stuff.

The vice-grips are helpful. You don't want them too tight, but I use them on our wall mounted compressor to keep the spring from spinning out. Also, for the ones you'll be using, make sure to keep them pretty even. Don't crank one down too much further than the other side. Otherwise you can end up jamming the things into the springs. Also, I wouldn't hunch over them, just in case.

I put a Jasper reman'd motor in my 2000 Forester a little over a year ago and have been pretty happy with it. It came with the timing belt, water pump, oil pan, can't remember if I had to use the old valve covers or not. Came with a 3 year, 100k mike warranty. Similar price to the remans from elsewhere. As to is it worth it, that's entirely up to you on how much you like it. Sounds like it probably would be with what you're describing, but I'd get some prices and decide from there.

Will it do it in the air? If you can get it up on stands or a lift, try putting it in gear and cranking the steering to both locks, see if you see anything. That's where I would start.

Head bolts or case half bolts?

Go to the dealer, give them the vin and have them cut a key off of it. Usually, they will want proof of ownership (registration) and ID. It's not that much. Might be worth getting two. Unless of course you've changed the tumbler before.

Really? I see them all the time. We don't do them unless we have reason to condemn them, but they fail quite often around here. Of course, our roads suck, and the cars last a long time here, so the results may vary by region.

More than liekly, it's the bearing plate (a.k.a. strut tops, mounting plates, top hats, ect.). But, sway bar links and other loose suspension stuff can cause it too. If you think it's the fronts, just open the hood, pop the plastic caps off the top of the strut, and watch/feel them while you bounce the front of the car up and down. You can theoretically do that with the backs too, but it takes a bit more to get to them. As stated, wouldn't be a bad idea to do the springs too. Especially if it seems like it's sagging in the rear. 'Course, you may end up opening a bucket of worms if you decide to use the "do it while you're in there" method.

That depends on the type of flushing equipment used. The machine we use has no pump, instead it has a tank with two bladders in it. One of the bladders is filled with fresh fluid, the other left empty. The machine is hooked inline with the cooler. The car is started and, once the fluid has warmed up, the valve is switched from bypass to flush. At this point, the old fluid goes into the empty bladder, forcing fluid out of the fresh fluid bladder back into the cooler lines. Because the machine has no pump, the fluid pressure never exceeds the normal pressures for the transmission. I wouldn't ever recommend forcing fluid through a transmission, that is asking for trouble. Of course, the 3x drain and fill can work too, though for a shop, it is a little more time consuming. That said, if a transmission is nearly shot, anything that forces it to have to relearn its shift adapts can cause it to fail completely. This can even include a loss of power like changing or having to jump a battery. Changing fluid also tends to fall into this, as the new fluid will have a different viscosity than the old worn fluid. If the transmission was running at the edge of what it could compensate for, small changes could cause it to push over the edge, or simply not be able to get back to where they were from zero. As to the original poster, the only Subarus I've seen that have any issues with the relearn are the CVTs, which you wouldn't have. If your fluid is in bad shape, it might shift a little funny at first as wtdash said, but it should relearn it fairly quickly. I've done several though with no noticeable difference in shifting. If your fluid smells burnt though, new fluid won't fix burnt clutch-packs.

Probably want to talk to an exhaust shop. They can help them sound pretty much any way you want. The thing you'll miss is the rumble, because they went to equal length headers. If you wanted that, you'll need custom headers.

Is it a FWD? The 4WDs sat about 2 inches higher, due to the spring perch on the strut being higher. If that's the case, as long as you get it aligned, you shouldn't have any issues. If you don't like it, I think that they combined part numbers for the fwd and 4wd models, with the spring perch being moveable.

Depending on the year, that may not be an option. I know my 2000 Forester uses an Air Fuel Ratio sensor in the front, which won't interchange with a normal o2 sensor. The connectors are different though, so you would notice if you tried. Edit: Right as I hit post, I realized you probably meant replace. Have you tried running a cleaner though the fuel like 44k?

If they are all bald, it should be okay. If you've got different tread depths though, you're going to hurt the awd system, badly. What's the code?

Jasper does rebuilt engines for some of the Subarus now. If you can get one, they've got a 3yr, 100k miles warranty. It comes with heads, timing belt, water pump. Had to transfer the dipstick and some sensors, but pretty complete. Done well in my 2000 Forester so far. Edit: Here's the link to their info on it: http://www.jasperengines.com/blog/jasper-offers-remanufactured-subaru-25l-sohc-boxer-engine

If the car was warm, engine bay air (iat) will be warmer than outside air. However, it is a bit odd that it thinks ambient air temp is low. May be an indication of an issue. The best time to check those sensors is Key On Engine Off after it has sat overnight. All the sensors should be within a few degrees of each other at that point.