Dj7291993

I know the pressure plate has a heavier clamping force on the XT6, but what is the difference in the disks? From Subaru, list price difference is about $25. Trying to figure out whether I'm going to do the XT6 plate for my EJ swap, or just wait 'till the one I have is done, then switch.

Red? Didn't know they came in red. Pics would be nice.

Just a tip to make it go faster, the studs on the engine are a bit long... and annoying. However, to make it easier to slide on, you can tip the engine back for a more agreeable angle. Easiest way is to just a jack under the front. Don't go too far, don't want to stress the mounts. Just enough to get the angle.

Glad I could help. Don't you just love how accurate the books are sometimes?

That's a good idea. Probably should've thought of that. So, if a wire is already cut on one side of the SMJ, it should be safe to cut it on the other side, right? Also, does anyone have a good pic of a trimmed OBD-I harness? It would really help to know which connectors I can clip.

Well, if you can find 'em, I'm gonna need one soon.

One of the MT plugs is reverse lights, the other is a 4wd light (or low range). Don't hook up any of the AT wires to the MT. The wires for the Neutral Safety Switch and reverse lights are on you're older inhibitor switch. It is the large plug on the old shifter that tells the dash which gear you are in. I just cut the switch side of the plug, soldered the starter wires together (Should be the bigger two, black I believe), then wired the reverse lights to a rocker switch. You can wire them to the transmission side switch, but mine kept blowing the fuse, which also feeds the windows and turn signals, so I bypassed it. The 4wd light is up to you, whether you want to deal with it or not, I skipped it. It won't keep it from working.

Yeah, meant to put that. 94 Legacy, judging by the clutch on it, I'd say it was a manual.

So, for the swap, is the only wire I need from the left (passenger) side of the engine bay for the MAF sensor? That's the only one I'm seeing, but I want to make sure I'm not missing something. I got my harness, ecu, and engine from the same car, but I didn't pull them, so I'm not sure what's what.

Couldn't you just throw a switch on it?

I'm sure you already did, but double check all of your vacuum lines. I know I've missed one or two on multiple occasions. Also, make sure they're not split. Also, did you make sure the accelerator pump was working?

The best mpg-boosting mod I did was switching to a manual. went from 18mpg to 22mpg... and has since dropped back down due to the engine being in, well, we'll just say "poor" shape. (87 GL Coupe, 4wd, carb) My dad's unmodified 88 GL, fwd, MPFI EA82, 5-speed, gets between 36-41mpg. That thing gets over 400miles/tank.

If it's a carb, it could be dieseling. Does it do it when it's cold as well? There should be a valve to prevent that (I think it's a valve), but it could be malfunctioning. It could also be that you ignition coil is getting power when it shouldn't be. Does anything else stay on (headlights, for example) after you turn off the key? You may want to pull one wire off, and see if it continues to get spark with the key off.

Umm, it's not a donor car, and he doesn't have the exhaust. I was thinking I'd have to go the the JY to get the part to bolt to the engine off... and figure out the rest from there, based on how loud it is (no emissions tests in El Paso County for gas engines). Right now, my EA82 has no muffler, well, really, it has about a foot of pipe behind the cat, and there is a leak in the drivers side of the y-pipe, and I haven't been pulled over by the CSPD (city), EPSD (county), or CSP (state). So, as long as I can keep it a bit under that. Lol, then again, I was going about nine over when I saw a deputy the other day, I hit the brakes, but I know he could've clocked me. He looked up at my car, then went back to his computer. Yup! So excited. How long should I expect this to take, noting that I will have access to a lift, hoist, and impact wrench? I'm gonna have to fit this in with 3 jobs, and my last semester at college.

My '87 GL (made in april of 87) has an inline filter in the engine bay. It's carbed, just like that one (although, my whole engine bay is black and grimey ). There may be another by the pump, but I know there is one under the hood. It's not hard to find, just follow the fuel lines off the carb until you hit it. IIRC, it's near the distributor, but I'd have to double check. Also, it looks like an EA82, which would be OHC (SOHC, to be more specific). But, you can double check, the engine model is stamped on the top of it. You can see the EA part in your picture, between the power-steering pump-pulley and the oil dipstick. EA82 = OHC, EA81 = OHV.

Just for reference, UPAP charges $200 + $25 core, not including the alt or power steering... or the harness, or the ECU. Phil (the guy in Longmont) has the complete engine, harness, and ECU out of a '94 Legacy for $500, and the only thing it needs is valve cover seals. He just replaced the water pump and timing belt before he pulled it. It's at 200k on miles, but he says it was running strong when he pulled it, car was just falling apart. That's the route I'm gonna go. It's only about 2.5 hours away, and he said he's meet me part way for a few extra bucks. I'm hoping to get the adapter plate and flywheel with my tax return. After that, it should just be the fuel pump, fans, radiator hoses, and some sort of exhaust, right?

Well, I can't really complain about parking in Colorado Springs. It is nice in the winter, though, as the snow plows always reserve the close spots for Subarus and other SUVs. The only place here you have to parallel park is downtown, which, for the size of the city, is tiny... and has garages. Denver is harder, but nothing like that.

Thanks jeffast, I emailed him about it. The post is a bit old, though. @Miles, fixing the engine isn't a huge deal, I just don't want to pay $1k for one with a bad engine when that's all I need. Lol, also, to buy a whole car from the U Pull And Pay here starts at $1000, and goes up depending on what is still there. I'm hoping the swap stuff will work out, 'cause Longmont is only about 2.5 hours away, and $500 is a LOT less than what I've been seeing for a good engined donor.

Actually, front toe will only effect tire wear and steering wheel. I can make it more likely to grab ruts, but it won't cause a pull. Camber and caster will, if they vary from side to side. Check you're strut. I've spent hours trying to figure out what went wrong on a Cougar. Finally checked the strut again, and caught it at just the right angle to see it. Ever so slight bend, amplified by the length of the strut. Also, you might want to check out you wheel bearing. With the wheel on, and the car lifted, try to rock the wheel in and out (not side to side, as you steering will move, grab the top and bottom).

Well, haven't done it yet, due to time and money, but I've heard it's fairly simple. Better if you are comfortable with wiring. Numbchux has a nice little writeup on his site regarding this. You may want to keep in mind that, if you get a carbureted car, you'll have to swap in an FI pump, unless you plan on converting you EJ22 to a carb. Also, I'm no expert, but it seems like I've heard that the dual-range was not available in the Loyals (90's GLs), but I could be wrong (haha, wouldn't be the first time, won't be the last).

Then don't. Use the cable, but put the release on the door. Like the emergency trunk releases in newer cars.

I think he is unsure of the meaning of your acronym. He is asking you to pm (private message) it to him if it is Not Safe For Work (nsfw). At least, that's what I gathered from it, I could be wrong.

I've got a pull and pay down here with legacy's, but I'd rather not have to do it in a yard. I was hoping for a full donor. I was thinking the same thing, about the wrecks, but they don't always make it to craigslist. Are there other good places to get full salvage cars?

So, I've been searching craigslist, but being as this is Colorado, and it's February, there aren't a whole lot of people looking to part with their Subaru's (well, none with a good engine) for a good price. They may be common here, but there is good reason. So, where are some good places to find EJ donors? Where would you look for wrecked cars? What are some good engine checks I can do in the case of the car being in poor shape? Anything else I should know, or any tips you wish to share? I'm thinking craigslist isn't the way to go right now, as there's ones with blown head-gaskets for $1000+.

My bad. Sorry, this 3 jobs plus school has me a bit tired lately.