asis

Looks like a great find to me KNOPPER, I like the paint scheme, think I might do sumin like that on my daughters, cept in dark maroon, and white. Kinda the color of the pin stripe on yours

Thx jonv, those pics will help me to reference since I just pulled the carpet in one of my 80' BRATS from the strip at the wheel wells fwd to the cab. I am thinking of an alternate mounting, however, one that might allow removing the bracket for the seats as well. I see the issue with bolting, since there is no access room from underneath where the rear brace of the bracket should sit..... Ben, if you remove any and all crud from the bed floor, along the front of the bed near the cab you should find 4 bolt holes. Outer ones match up with one hole in my high bar, and the center two are only a rib or two apart in the center of the bed. Not sure if all were equipped this way or not. Welded nuts under the bed. You should be able to find other seat belts to bolt up there, at least that is my plan. Not sure the bolt size or thread but the thread is fine and the bolt took a 16mm wrench

Thanks GD, I have kinda been hangin round for you to find me. No worries I know busy and I got several irons burning too. You have mostly confirmed my logic as far as what could or should be wrong. I did notice something in the disty that resembles metal shavings or dust, maybe the spark is jumping all over instead of to the wire contacts. Kinda monkeying it running the key and looking by myself so...it is a side project at any rate, making it run is just a bonus. It only sputtered on some starting fluid and once on some gas right into the carb. and I see no squirt when I open the throttle and look down the throat.... side note, I re routed the clutch cable on the other BRAT and it helped slightly so I think that other cable would do wonders, but still rather fix the pedal assy while I am at it. Honestly I don't think the one we pulled is gonna be worth making it work. Think maybe I should start a thread on my girl's BRAT....it starting to look perty tweet

On a 1600 (starter top center) in a 80' BRAT. Posting this here because all the numbers I can match up and my POS Chilton's confirms electronic ignition being original. I bought the thing not running and all though I did get a story about work supposedly done, I see evidence contrary...however, there are wires loose, snipped, hanging etc. I do have spark from the coil wire but not to the plugs apparently. The cap, rotor and wires all look new, no signs of wear, damage or cracks or carbon. I was able to get it to fire a couple of times so it may just be an intermittent problem but much more mittent at this point. I don't see any signs of the disty being loosened or moved, so am assuming timing is not an issue at this point. It appears to me the resistor...? (looks like a condensor from a points system mounted externally next to the coil) connects to the coil...forget now whether pos or neg terminal, and is snipped at the exit. It looks to me as if it has been cut for some time since there is corrosion on the bare wire sticking out of the insulation. My manual mentions a "reluctor" plate airgap? Just beginning this process so hoping to find some tips on a course of action. I also found the alternator disconnected, main lug, two terminal plug and a spade connector but I don't see the alternator shown in the circuit in my manual so just fyi. There is a wire connected to the spade but have not traced it out yet. TIA asis

That's a frikin speed brake Let em try that next week at Martinsville

Shuffle and deal Tire swapin... Like new toyo eclipse from black bart/brat to the driver BRAT, mud n studs to the GL rollers on bart least till its under it's own power. Got the goodies pulled from BART and even got the lil EA71 to sputter at me. goodies from BART cleaned prepped and primed/painted. Bit of clean up left to do on the seats and welding on the high bar and final touchups. Taught my daughter the magic of polishing compound and a random orbit buffer Then I took the right seat for one of her first driving lessons....for which I caught royal raw rump for

I got a good first lesson on clutch cables and pedal assy. yesterday with/from GeneralDisorder I have a gen 1 clutch cable and pedal assy in my brat, pulled an EA81 with GD yesterday to upgrade... My cable has ends that could be replaced however, GD informed me that there is more to the cables wearing than just the inner cable so... please ignore my previous Post

Other than 3" pipe, nothing special that I can tell. Just what it had when I got it. Only had it about 6 months and was first time I heard it from other than the drivers seat myself...

It sounds like both ends of the cable are just swagged fittings then on the cable itself. :-\ If that is the case, the ends can be cut, the cable removed from the housing, new cable strung through the cleaned housing and back through the old brackets/yoke...etc. and new ends swagged.

Are you talking about the "related videos"? That not me, heh, I barely speak english :-\ but I am fairly fluent in Hillbilly

Lubed, lapped and loved for a trip to West Linn and visit with GD. My 11yr old daughter was, to my surprise, impressed with the sounds of her future ride

Not sure of how your cable attaches but my 80' BRAT is just ball swaged on the end of the cable through the bracket. Old Harley shops are good at remaking cables. just a thought in and extreme case...? or to have a spare.

Well thank you very much I have a pilot buddy in West Linn too, only met him online so far but they have a doughnut thing on Friday's I think ...but this gives me more reason to make the trip...as long as showing up in a toyota is appropriate

Sounds like GD might be a better option, sure seems to have more answers than I would. I just have a 50'x80' barn with some concrete bays no heat but is dry and nothing to bother for day or two if needed. Still I have a BRAT I am looking to make reliable and safe for my daughter when she starts highschool and a GL wagon on its last legs I wouldn't mind pokin my nose around and offering a hand, specially if beer n pizza are still on the menu

Maybe not such a hoot if your nearest neighbor is over 1/2 mile away No one ever heard of a "cheater" ....like a 3' or 6' pipe slid over the breaker bar? LR 1st or rev gear and go for it If and or when it starts rockin, use the momentum to "snap" it. Glad ya got it tho DOH!!! Torque converter hehehe crap....nm :-\ I like this method, use it all the time on small engines :cool:

I like beer and pizza I have accommodations and tools and knowledge, not so much on the experience pullin suby engines but its just nuts n bolts I am just north across the river exit 16 and have a dry bay I could give up for a weekend. Prolly others with better accommodations and experience, maybe even a bit closer...but if not let me know... Scott

Ya the fun don't last too long, they get the idea perty quick. I have the desert eagle with a clip and a slide that cocks it...they just have to hear that slide on the other side of the door, or if the gun not handy, I do a fair impression of the slide action...and they don't bother waiting to find out if it's the real thing or not

I've had a few like that myself, I found a great kitten training aid in a 15 dollar Air Soft pistol

Sweet ride...now it just needs some character

Thanks, and for the link

Well I tore it apart today to see what was there. I cut a piece of 12GA or better steel channel from an old lawnmower to see how it would work just bolted up with the bolt for the clutch cable mount. I figured I would give the crack a lil zap from the welder first and lo n behold I blew a hole in it Cranked the unit to min setting and got a bead or two on the rest of the crack and installed my stiffener. It does work now but there is still an awe full lot of slop. The clutch pedal pivots freely, and the cable is free even after making the bend to the pedal if I unhook it from the clutch arm on the tranny....wondering if maybe the throwout bearing on the shaft is sticking because the pedal still has a lot of resistance. It'll hold for now no more than I use or need it but I think I will go try to find another to pull and use as a jig to fab a new one. Mainly so I can see how the hell it comes out without learning the hard parts on a working rig. Still hopin and open for ideas....

Toy's and Subies appear to be a popular and effective combination When I redid my 82' PU I also still had a 72' TLC so I just needed a work/driver rig so the running gear is stock. New interior, body and paint along with a reman'd engine. NW Off-road Specialties header, offenhauser intake and weber carb. It's role has gone from lawnmower transport to logging truck and not having my Cruiser for the heavy lifting has taken some toll, but it still getser dun.

Thx for the reply, I have no problem removing it and would prefer to do so, I was just not sure if some of those spot welds are actually holding it in place and that is what I wanted to avoid. I hope to get it pulled down today so I can see more what is there. Thx agin, Scott