asis

I wondered about the carb myself. I think that is the same one I had on my landcruiser. Is it the one that is running on both barrels all the time? IE: not typical primary/secondary? They call it "positive action" instead of "progressive" That carb worked Sweet on my Cruiser but it was 290ci inline 6.

Awesome! If I can get mine to look half that good at 55 MPH I'll still be satisfied. BTW is that Cashmere beige or pale yellow...? or sumin totally different? I think its the same color mine is (kinda whats left neway) Also what running gear were you referring too? Curious because I have an EA81 D/R 4spd in my, 80' but it seems to run about 3k higher RPM at 60mph than GD's EA81 Hatch...?

Auto conversions as well as Rotax engines, most if not always run a gear reduction for the prop. Prop RPM full power cruise is usually only around 2600-2800 RPM mainly due to structural limitations and to keep the prop tip speed from ever exceeding the sound barrier. (approx. 720 mph @ sea level) I don't know that this is the problem but it is a distinct correlation.

It is a common process and called "welding" for a reason. You need the same type of rod as the material you are joining. It is used heavily in chemical baths, including acid etching baths done to silicon wafers which eventually become computer chips

You can pinch both hoses? Isn't the bottom one...(not my best hour of the day) supposed to have a spring to keep it from collapsing? Do both hoses get hot? if not, the thermostat may not be opening and if it is not getting hot water to it, it won't, even if functional. Does the heater work? IE: blow HOT air? Wrong radiator cap/pressure relief.... Does it have a temp gauge?

Console caddy and dope light fully operational must... not.... fashion...zzz... cupholders

Console caddy and dope light fully operational in the BRAT must... not.... fashion...zzz... cupholders

Sweet! And many thanks Not that I have any real intentions of doing so but at least there may be an avenue to explore there. The main reason it piqued my interest in the first place is due to an engine I rebuilt several, several, years ago, inline chevy 6 for a 66 GMC handy van. The engine was a 230/250 ci basically used the 230 crank with 250 heads and the rest. Sure made for a snappy lil engine, even had the front wheels of that van off the ground once trying to pull a boat up the end of a ramp in Ok once. It would reason (to me at least) that for the sake of production, (the 71 was still produced after the 81 was introduced?) keeping as many things the same as possible would be cost effective. Thx again man, hope your enjoyin the weather

Just a simple NO eh? Why? 81 is just a stroked 71? Not questioning your knowledge, just feel like mine is not being considered and your answer lacks substance. I recall a discussion (more like me listening to you describe, with astounding detail ) about the lineage of subie engines, but I slept since then . I was just curious what the change/improvement/upgrade...? in the block from the EA71 to EA81. I can see reasons for the heads certainly but not sure of the crank...?

Good job, glad ya got it

What size tires? Used? off of? Radial or bias? If the symptom changed after moving the wheels and tires, I would say its wheel or tire issue. Similar to what was mentioned you can only use the two lugs that were NOT drilled, leave the others off for a short test drive to check your holes. If it still has the wobble then you could have a bad tire, separated tread, balance issue etc. Radials don't much like being rotated the opposite direction late in life either.

I can disprove that statement anytime you care to witness

And along those lines, since it seems ea71 pistons will fit ea81 block then will an ea81 crank work in a ea71 block. Heads interchange? I didn't find any thing in search that gave much specifics if any info...:-\

I don't think it will AND let the tailgate close. With the tailgate open likely but then alternate display for rear license might be needed.

Made through the initial run/inspection of the bed. Only major areas that need attention are the rear corners under the chrome and a few spots in the rear of the bed where the carpet strips go. Still have to do some work on the high bar. I cut the brackets off that were on the side. Just nothing I really like for mounting. I will fashion some brackets to mount to the rear of the cab. I cut some v-blocks out of 2x4 and wedged in front of the bar and it really shores it up so... I can start gathering material and dreamin up ideas for the seats now. Have to run down a few screws for the panels and the chrome strips, not too bad though only about 5 to drill out or aggressively remove Still debating whether or not to swap the tailgate with my spare or just ruff this one down. Couple of character dents and surface rust in some good scratches, but the other one is all ready cleaned up and painted flat black...:-\ Would have done it already but the wiring for the license plate deterred me for now.

I noticed the driver window as well and that he said the AWD is leaking....??? I am fairly certain it should not be an AWD in 87' but.... But give me a "break" he wasn't real sure how to spell "brakes" Maybe he is just after a date

Thnx for the additional info and replies, still bout as clear as MUD :-\ Would it be safe to say then that the designations only refer to body trim and options and not power plant or drive train? For some reason It was my understanding that 85'-89'ish GL Wagons were Non-Turbo, EA82 D/R 5 spd...? Did the DL get dropped altogether during the 80's?

Sooooo,,,what if anything separates either from the GL? Still learning all of it myself but thought the GL10 was turbo? or just optiion...S/R...? Loyale same body as both GL but S/R also?

That's kinda the same clarification I was looking for...:-\ Is it "actually" overheating, or just indicating hot?

Dude?!?! Is that an aresol can laying next to the alt in at least two of those pics????

You might be ahead of the game then. If I might suggest an important consideration in your design thoughts, go with a rull roll bar, or include some sort of mount to the rear of the cab. I cut the side brackets off of mine because even if I could have or did screw them to the sides, they would have eventually pulled out. I think I can get something substantial to mount to through the rear of the cab and that is where it needs braced. I cut some 2x4 chunks with v cutouts to brace against the cab and that shores it up quite nicely...so just have to fab something to that effect now. Still thinking of starting from scratch also with 1 3/4 " lemmeno what u thinking....

Cool. I agree it looks and taste the same but I was still curious, thx for the clarification I know of using tranny fluid poured into the carb or even added to the fuel in days of yor, but it was pretty hard on seals n such. Did a helluva job cleaning the fuel and intake system tho. Can't recall now but is Naptha alcohol? lighter fluid? basically? Mineral oil is same as engine oil minus additives

Great input Rick and thanks. Sure hope I did not detract from the work Splinter has put into this, or the benefit some may find in it we can split hairs on descrip, but hey, when in need, make it work, and I agree Splinter may well have...so. Peace

Awesome! Thanks. If or should I have the need, I will keep you in mind for sure.