asis

Have you actually measured those numbers on any ru engines with over 150k? just curious...seems pretty high expectations. Also is there a bypass for the filter??? If so, what is the release pressure?

How many miles on the motor? Any rework been done? If you can idle at temp at 15 or so I would say that to be a safe min. Highway speeds @ temp 40 to 45 min. Can run and be fine with less but, is also an indication of tired motor.

I would imagine it is electric but I honestly don't know for sure. I would suspect the sending unit or gauge tho as being off even prior to the oil change. Any blockage in a direct feed oil pressure gauge should result in a lower reading.

Not sure of how much elevation change you go through on your logging roads but if anything like SW Washington, I can go from 200' ASL to 4000' ASL in less than 45 miles and the last climb can get drastic. I have had my 86' GL wagon Carbed EA82 up those road many times in the last 15yrs. It does just fine in winter or cool temps but in July or August...loaded with camping and fishing and survival gear....etc, I have had to run the heater full bore or stop for cooling. Timing belts are also an issue that give no warning and will leave you dead with no chance of field repair UNLESS, you have belts and the covers removed already. EA81 do not have a coolant recovery, but is easy enuff to add, no belts, and even with no recovery, I have not had any overheating issues with my EA81 in my 80' BRAT. Also realize that these rigs, were not designed for off pavement travel so, those wash board fire roads will beat the P out of em at any speed above crawl. Bigger tires would help smooth the ride but also make more work for the motor. I can't advise this from experience of driving one but, I believe the newer rigs, with an EJ and larger tires, would be more suitable for a lasting rig for what you mention using it for.

What type of oil pressure gauge do you have? If electric could be sending unit or gauge itself... 60-70 @ temp @ highway speed, sounds a bit high to me to be normal, even with a fresh rebuild...but I don't have a gauge on my EA81, just my EA82, and 40-45 @ temp @ highway speeds is all it has ever run. Might try an engine flush...I think Riselone ....? has been recommended also. I have used GUNK engine flush before and it does a good job, just follow the instructions. Worse case if you do have a blockage, could use an old aviation trick. Drain the oil, fill to the low mark with diesel fuel, start the engine for 15-30 seconds, drain and refill with oil.

Not sure but you might find it here... http://www.worldwidecm.com/HTKYSA.pdf

Will be cool seeing that thing do a rear wheel SMOKEY burnout Damn throwout bearing ne who...

Not much if any progress...grass is growing and so is my work load in my shop. I have been using the heck out the lil buggie tho. Everything from hauling small riding mowers and other OPE to fix, from racing Honda's, Accura's and Toyota's with fat ole fart pipes hangin out their rear, round these foothill roads Found out the lil bugger will hit the last dash on the speedo...(85MPH/140KPH@5000RPM ) Looking for some wood trim to finish up my console caddy. Still need to remove the screws and get some brads to finish up where any glue didn't hold as well.

Hey poop, I am seriously interested in the color of your BRAT, and where you may have acquired the color. I would like to have some to use as I patch up my own one hole at a time. I am not a fly by night hillbilly, just a hillbilly but one with a clue... would appreciate any help TIA

Sorry Tommy, but, yes, I need the seat bracket to effect a mounting system. It could be duplicated but it is much easier to use an existing one. Sides, don't you have other issues to deal with?

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http://www.aa1car.com/library/leakdown.htm http://www.motorcycleproject.com/motorcycle/text/leakdown.html

If you have a bent pushrod, I doubt that is the actual problem. Stuck valve maybe or rings or piston. Without tearing into it you could do a leak down test on the suspect cylinders.

Thanks..I think Grill is gettin fired up around 4

Ok I think I am following ya, but is each butterfly on its own shaft? Otherwords, leave one butterfly shut and only allow one to operate?

Sounds like a warped rotor to me as well. Do you get more pedal after one pump? Warped rotor will push the pads out further and sometimes require an extra pump of the brake pedal. I think I have one doing the same thing on my BRAT. Side note on the rears, I only have one side even connected on my 86' GL and it is not noticeable at all.

From my memory (which admittedly sux) The weber 38 does not effectively have a "primary/secondary" at least not the one I have on my cruiser. Both barrels are in operation at all times off idle..... Maybe more than one variation of the 38 weber?

Absolutely Rick-If you find a low cylinder, I would then pull the other plugs and note the change in readings before doing a leak down. Otherwise there "is" the chance of doing a leak down and not finding much if any thing. Actually if you have the setup for a leakdown test, it is the most accurate indication of the cylinder. Oil is IMPORTANT!!! It does help the rings seal Perhaps I am applying my knowledge of aviation as well as small engines for Outdoor Power Equipment, to automotive, and I do realize that auto has many variations, smog, vacuum, carbs,....etc. so I don't intend my thoughts to be 100% accurate as far as subie engines. Just chiming in to get some feedback myself....hope that is ok...? I have over 25yrs as a mechanic but (thankfully) only about 1 yr as an auto mech...cuz I hate bending over fenders AND on today's auto's, most Certified Mechs only need to plug in a machine and find out what part to replace, many actually have no idea how an internal combustion engine actually works...least the ones that bring their lawn mowers to me to fix a leaking needle valve/seat

I agree with GD's assessment as far as being accurate, however I think if you are just trying to locate a bad cylinder, it can be done with the other plugs installed as long as your battery is up to snuff. If you only get 60psi on one cylinder with the other plugs in, I doubt you will get 120psi by removing the other plugs. Once you locate a low cylinder, then doing a leak down test on that cylinder can help identify the problem as to rings or valves. You will want to pull the coil wire while testing regardless

Are you getting signs of overheating other than from the temp gauge? Does the radiator cap ever release pressure? Is there pressure on the cap when you open it? Exhaust smoke/steam/smell? When it gets hot has the coolant level dropped? How long does it take from cold to hot at idle on the gauge? I guess I just don't see where you have posted that it is "actually" over heating other than the temp gauge, which could be the only problem. If you let it run and when it starts to show hot, hit the heater full bore and you should see the gauge slow if not drop slightly...least from my experience.

????

Soooo...for my bracket mount for the jump seats, I am thinking about possibly adapting a minivan or Suburban type removable seat, flush floor mount... Have to do some parusing.....

Ahk thx, makes sense then that mine will cruise through town at 25mph in 3rd nice n happy and GD says his is luggin... He may actually have told me about the gearing also, but he told me alot and I slept since then

100hp rotax in a Zenith CH-701 runs a 2:1 gear reduction. Prop RPM redline is 2700 engine is 5400. Idle speed for engine is 1800 or so. I think your still looking at proper carburetion or at least jetting...

That is a bit of what has me wondering. I happen to be an A&P mech and also have 50hrs as a student pilot. In aircraft, I am not sure this engine would ever run much under 3k RPM since (I know the Rotax for example) runs around 5500 RPM for cruise, which still needs to go through a gear reduction for the prop to turn >2800 RPM. With the same gear reduction, for the prop to turn 600 - 1500 RPM, needed for taxiing and run-up, and most importantly, LANDING the engine would still be turning around 3k. Certified aircraft engine run the prop directly off the crank, so those engines do not (least should not) exceed 3k. Again, I don't know for sure that this does or doesn't have anything to do with it...but it does have me pondering the possibility. I can check some aviation forums and couple my pilots buds for some info along these lines... if no more than to satisfy my own curiosity