Supaglu

Cylinders 1 & 3 also share the same inlet manifold gasket - so could be an air leak ! DaveH

Have you tried it in "power" mode, also try pulling the gearshift back into 3rd gear (if this is a 4 speed) and see if it changes down that way. DaveH

Shean, What I described for the fuel pump wiring is seperate from the other post regarding the starter motor, you dont need another relay just interrupt the earth feed to the f/p relay via a flick switch. This would obviously have to be left on when using the car but the starter switch could be turned off once started. If you fit a kill switch interrupting power to the coil then all that will happen is they will flatten your battery trying to steal it. I know that it is easy enough to by-pass a starter kill switch by jumping a wire to the starter under the bonnet - but nearly all "immobilisers" can be by-passed if the thief is persistent enough and really all you want to do is make it as awkward as possible. In the UK you can purchase relatively cheap immobiliser kits that will give you instructions - are they not available where you are ? DaveH

No - there isn't a wire from the ignition switch that feeds the fuel pump, not directly anyway. You could rewire the earth feed for the fuel pump relay. Find this wire and cut it - feed both ends directly to a hidden on/off flick switch. I believe the relay is under the dash/drivers side, if you are looking at a wiring diagram it may be referred to as an engine relay. DaveH

If you clear the codes it should initially put the light off and then run it until the light comes on again - do another code read this should give you a better idea of what the problem is. Take a note of any codes stored and post them here. Regards DaveH

Hi, Possibly your left hand front brake seized, try leaving you parking brake off and try pushing the car forward slightly. Good luck with it ! Regards DaveH

Check your front lower arm inner mounting bolts are tight or bushes excessively worn. DaveH

Does it have air conditioning ? if it does it would be easier to remove the transmission, the only problem you might come across is releasing the exhaust nuts/bolts around the turbo due to the way they seize with the heat. DaveH

Shean, If you use a relay it allows you to use a lightweight switch cos all its doing is switching a relay on and off. Are you thinking along the lines of having to push a button whilst cranking - if so then the button would have to reasonably near and may therefore be easy to find. With a relay you can put the switch anywhere you like. DaveH

Under the steering column find the wiring harness that goes to the igntion lock, it may have 4 or 6 wires. Trace the "starter" wire (black & white I think) cut this and take both ends to a new 4 pin relay - pins 30 and 87 (the end that comes from the switch put to pin 30) Loop a connection from pin 30 onto pin 86. Take the connection from pin 85 to your choice of switch and the other connection of the switch to a good earth point. When the switch is "on" then your ignition key will work as normal, when off the key will be dead. Another way I have done it is not to use a switch but use the wiring on the back of for example your rear heated window switch, find a wire on the rear of the hrw that is earthed when pushed in and off when released - hence when you leave your car unattended if you leave the hrw switch pushed in then your starter cannot be turned from the igniton switch. DaveH

It keeps all the road dirt away from the piston seal, if it's split then the piston will eventually seize, worst case scenario is that it will take your rotors with it. Regards DaveH

150 lbsft - castle nut DAVEh

Hi, To remove the "conical" washer - either tap a flat bladed screwdriver into the slot of the washer to release it, or put the castle nut back on "back to front" so that it's flush with the end of the shaft and whack the end of the shaft - preferably with a copper hammer. I'm sure there is special hub tool for pushing the shaft out through the hub and another one for pulling it back in, but it can be done without these, if you are unlucky then the inner wheel bearing may come out with the shaft. DaveH

Hi, If your are having to continually retorque your axle nut then replace the conical washer behind the nut - this will cure it. DaveH

Hi, How big is the hole in the light ? - if it's small enough you could seal it with some super glue and save yourself the expense of buying more lights ! DaveH