Supaglu

Cylinders 1 & 3 also share the same inlet manifold gasket - so could be an air leak ! DaveH

Have you tried it in "power" mode, also try pulling the gearshift back into 3rd gear (if this is a 4 speed) and see if it changes down that way. DaveH

Shean, What I described for the fuel pump wiring is seperate from the other post regarding the starter motor, you dont need another relay just interrupt the earth feed to the f/p relay via a flick switch. This would obviously have to be left on when using the car but the starter switch could be turned off once started. If you fit a kill switch interrupting power to the coil then all that will happen is they will flatten your battery trying to steal it. I know that it is easy enough to by-pass a starter kill switch by jumping a wire to the starter under the bonnet - but nearly all "immobilisers" can be by-passed if the thief is persistent enough and really all you want to do is make it as awkward as possible. In the UK you can purchase relatively cheap immobiliser kits that will give you instructions - are they not available where you are ? DaveH

No - there isn't a wire from the ignition switch that feeds the fuel pump, not directly anyway. You could rewire the earth feed for the fuel pump relay. Find this wire and cut it - feed both ends directly to a hidden on/off flick switch. I believe the relay is under the dash/drivers side, if you are looking at a wiring diagram it may be referred to as an engine relay. DaveH

If you clear the codes it should initially put the light off and then run it until the light comes on again - do another code read this should give you a better idea of what the problem is. Take a note of any codes stored and post them here. Regards DaveH

Hi, Possibly your left hand front brake seized, try leaving you parking brake off and try pushing the car forward slightly. Good luck with it ! Regards DaveH

Check your front lower arm inner mounting bolts are tight or bushes excessively worn. DaveH

Does it have air conditioning ? if it does it would be easier to remove the transmission, the only problem you might come across is releasing the exhaust nuts/bolts around the turbo due to the way they seize with the heat. DaveH

Shean, If you use a relay it allows you to use a lightweight switch cos all its doing is switching a relay on and off. Are you thinking along the lines of having to push a button whilst cranking - if so then the button would have to reasonably near and may therefore be easy to find. With a relay you can put the switch anywhere you like. DaveH

Under the steering column find the wiring harness that goes to the igntion lock, it may have 4 or 6 wires. Trace the "starter" wire (black & white I think) cut this and take both ends to a new 4 pin relay - pins 30 and 87 (the end that comes from the switch put to pin 30) Loop a connection from pin 30 onto pin 86. Take the connection from pin 85 to your choice of switch and the other connection of the switch to a good earth point. When the switch is "on" then your ignition key will work as normal, when off the key will be dead. Another way I have done it is not to use a switch but use the wiring on the back of for example your rear heated window switch, find a wire on the rear of the hrw that is earthed when pushed in and off when released - hence when you leave your car unattended if you leave the hrw switch pushed in then your starter cannot be turned from the igniton switch. DaveH

It keeps all the road dirt away from the piston seal, if it's split then the piston will eventually seize, worst case scenario is that it will take your rotors with it. Regards DaveH

150 lbsft - castle nut DAVEh

Hi, To remove the "conical" washer - either tap a flat bladed screwdriver into the slot of the washer to release it, or put the castle nut back on "back to front" so that it's flush with the end of the shaft and whack the end of the shaft - preferably with a copper hammer. I'm sure there is special hub tool for pushing the shaft out through the hub and another one for pulling it back in, but it can be done without these, if you are unlucky then the inner wheel bearing may come out with the shaft. DaveH

Hi, If your are having to continually retorque your axle nut then replace the conical washer behind the nut - this will cure it. DaveH

Hi, How big is the hole in the light ? - if it's small enough you could seal it with some super glue and save yourself the expense of buying more lights ! DaveH

Well, I've been doing a bit of searching on Google (didn't take long either !) and yes looks like you are right Intrigueing and Rallyruss - so I take my hat off to you, you learn something new everyday. Im sure the other techies in my workshop dont know about this either so will be discussing it with them on Monday. Regards DaveH

Hi, Do you have the starter motor with the three screws in the end plate on the solenoid ?, when you take the end plate off you can pull the plunger out leaving you with two copper "L" shaped contacts. They tend to wear unevenly so that when the plunger is pulled down it touches one of the contacts but not the other giving you the systems you describe, you can remove the L shaped contacts and enlarge the hole with a file to slightly raise the contact to the same height as the other one. If your feeling really ambitious you could try and get a strip of copper and make your own contacts ! The small positive wire to the solenoid originates from the ignition switch but it may go through a relay first. Regards DaveH

I wouldn't be surprised if F1 cars have this ability but i would say that very rarely do road going vehicles get anywhere near the technology available from F1 racing. Regards DaveH It would be interesting though if there is some one out there who could confirm whether Subaru has this technology !

Hi, Thanks GD, I would'nt make it up !, Like I say you do have to watch the temp - in the workshop we used the select monitor to watch the temp and switch it off at around 99 degrees C. DaveH

Hi, No not nuts, Subaru technical bulletin a few years ago ! Thanks for asking though ! DaveH

Hi, If you look under the dash you will find two green single pin connectors and two black single pin connectors, if you connect the green connectors together and switch the ignition on you wll hear the fuel pump pulse on and off every couple of seconds (if the pump is ok). "The computer has a program in it that is called the Clear Flood Mode. For the computer to activate the Clear Flood Mode it needs to see information that is out of the norm. This abnormal information is the sensor on the throttle reporting to the computer that the throttle is being held wide open, along with a crank signal to the starter. This combo of information causes the computer to respond by reducing, and in some cases completely shutting off, the fuel injectors. This process allows air only to enter the cylinder and dry out the abundance of gas." I must say I've never heard of this ! - been a tech for 26 years and on subies for 14 of them, The way I've always understood a fuel injection system - an engine can get flooded when it fails to start within the first minute, and to overcome this you fully depress the throttle to allow maximum quantity of air into the cylinders. If you touch the throttle at any other time whilst starting a subaru then the E.C.U will assume that wherever the throttle is positioned then that is the idle postion and will remain so until you switch off and restart without touching the throttle. On quad cam subies the two black wires under the dash when connected will cause the E.C.U to reduce the amount of fuel injected on cold starting Regards DaveH No disrespect to intrigueing intended.

Hi, Procedure for removing air from cooling system (gurgling noise):- 1) Remove the fuse that controls radiator cooling fan (to prevent it from cutting in) 2) Run engine until temp guage goes into the red (ideally use a thermometer to accurately guage engine temp) Fan would normally cut in at around 94-95 degrees centigrade - when engine reaches approx 99 degrees switch off and allow to completely cool down then remove cap and top up to required level. 3) Refit fuse Job done Regards DaveH

Hi, As long as you dont touch the brake pedal or change the discs or pads then no reason to touch piston ! DaveH

Hi, It's not the spring that goes on the back of the door lock barrel is it ? DaveH

Hi, Have you bled the system properly - if the thermostat was stuck closed then it would overheat ! (sorry if this is granny sucking eggs time) Regards Dave H