scoobiedubie

Just replace the entire half axle. Rebuilt cost about $50 and new cost about $75. It takes about 2 to 3 hours. 1. While the wheel is still on the ground, you loosen the castle nut at the end of the axles, and then pound on the axle to free it up from the bearings. 2. Chock the wheels, jack the car up, release the parking brake, and rotate the front wheel until you can remove the inside axle pin. Be sure and mark the transmission end hole where the pin came out of with some whiteout, because the pin only goes back in that same end of the hole. The interior half axle end holes are of different size so that the pin only goes through the larger hole. The larger hole goes over the end of the axle hole that the pin just came out of. 3. Remove the brake caliper assembly and pull it over the end of the half axle. 4. Remove the half axle. Reverse procedure to reinstall. Make sure that you are not putting any dirt into the wheel bearings. Add new grease to the wheel bearings where possible. You will need a 36mm x 1/2" socket for the castle nut, a 2 foot x 1/2" breaker bar for the socket, a 5/32" diameter cold chisel, and hammer to pound out and reinstall the interior axle pin. Piece of cake.

Some electrical parts differ from year to year. Gaston has parts up the wazoo. 14200 SW Parmele Road 503-936-9579

Never buy valve lifters on EBAY. All you get is crappy lifters that don't hold oil. My biggest Subaru score on EBAY was a LSD 3.7 rear differential. Most parts are best extracted from the local junk yard.

I don't recommend helicoils for bolts that you intend to tighten up real good. You should use one piece threaded inserts, because no matter how little thread you have engaged inside of the insert, the entire length of the insert is grabbing the base material. The helicoils are made of individual spiral wires. The wires do not all work together. The only wires that grab the base material, are the same ones that your bolt engaged. Big difference.

Nothing wrong with keeping the ea82t engine for what you intend to do. If it is not rusted out, the driver seat is not trashed, the outside paint job is not faded, and there are no dents, then it sounds like a good buy.

The raised metal line for a GEN 2, would be below the raised letters EA82. You most likely have GEN 1, which have no raised line or raised rectangle. You are already stuck with whatever you got. You might want to keep an eye out for some GEN 3 heads, if you ever have to change out a cylinder head gasket, or somebody strips the bolts from the exhaust cross-pipe.

I have replaced that window several times. You are going to have to remove the outside bottom window trim. There is a screw at each end, as I recall. Removing the white roller guides is also required. The window is held to the sliding mechanism by 2 bolts. If you have electric windows, you might need to set the window in a particular position that allows some tilting and sliding to work the wheels out through hidden slots in the upper part of the door. Use lots of lithium grease in the guide rails, wheels and other moving parts, before you reinstall the window.

The problem with the temperature gauge is that the connection to the thermostat on top of the engine, gets corroded. Remove and clean. Replace. The turbo temp gauge is all over the map, and can rise by a couple of notches if you just turn the headlights on, or turn the heater on. Ignore the temperature gauge, and don't bother pissing money away on it. If you plan on driving the chit out of it, you will crack the cylinder heads even more than they already are. You probably have GEN 1 heads, which are the worst. Look at the bottom of the engine at the cylinder heads, to see if there is either a line beneath the EA82(Gen 2), or the EA82 is enclosed inside of a rectangle (Gen 3). Gen 1's have neither a line nor a rectangle. Basically, you want to drive your turbo as if you were a little old lady going to sunday school.

If you have a black residue in the coolant overflow bottle or a gritty material on the bottom side of the radiator cap, then welcome to the world of perpetual cylinder head gasket changes. Better get your hands on some good backup distributors, because the 85 and 86's turbo distys, have issues. As in sudden failure.

Forget using R12 again.

For Subaru cylinder head replacement, installing the short bolts in the holes with a shoulder, that require the longer bolts. Strips out thread in the block.

A vacuum leak will cause a rough idle. There are a couple of dohickeys on top of the engine that are connected to the vacuum system. The nipples on those dohickeys can break off real easy and make for a vacuum leak. A bad vacuum pump will cause a rough idle. An oil dip stick that is not all the way down will cause a rough idle. A disconnected vent hose to the cam tower cover will cause a rough idle. If you look at the engine sideways, that will cause a rough idle.

Look for mice nests between the main radiator and the A/C radiator.

Remove the radiator and flush it out with hose pressure. In place radiator flushes are worthless. Turbo's usually require a double core radiator, especially in the summer time when the A/C is running. I have seen sticky thermostats that stay stuck in one position. You could remove yours and put it in a pan of water and boil it, in order to see if and how much it opens. The primary cause is loose cylinder head bolts allowing the head gasket to blow hot air into the cooling system. When I tighten cylinder head bolts, I first tighten them to their maximum, then I let them sit overnight, and the retighten them the next day before slapping on the cam towers.

EA82T pistons are lower compression than the EA82 pistons, since they are dished.

You might be still be able to buy new short blocks from Subaru.

1. Clean the MAF with specific MAF cleaning fluid from the auto store. Get every nook and cranny. 2. You failed to tell us how many miles on the vehicle. If you have over 200,000, then your main engine ground wire needs replacing, your fusible link wire to + battery terminal connection needs replacing and your alternator hot wire connector with some lead wire needs replacing.

And you always change the clutch bearing, any time you change the clutch.

Loose intake manifold bolts to the cylinder heads, allows coolant to get into the combustion chamber and it to get pushed out through the exhaust. Loose cylinder head bolts general puts pressure on the coolant system and blows it out the water bottle when you idle or stop, and leaves black residue in water bottle and residue under the radiator cap. A crack in the cylinder head at the exhaust port or a crack in the turbo, allows coolant in the exhaust that comes out the exhaust as white smoke.

Easy to take the transmission out the bottom. But a bitch to get it back in from the bottom due to tight tolerances, alignment issues that you cannot see while installing it, and requiring two people. Lowering the engine in from the top on a block and tackle, is a piece of cake for one person.

If you hired a car dealer mechanic to put in a new clutch, it could cost you $1500. With that low of mileage, if it was working properly, it would be worth at least $2000. You have to ask who has owned the vehicle. Did they drive the chit out of it, or was the owner a little old lady who only drove it to church? You can look under the engine and see what Generation heads you have. Gen 3 is best and you would see "EA82" inside of a raised rectangle. You probably will have Gen 2 heads. Which is "EA82" with a raised line underneath it. Does the engine use coolant? The owner may not give you a straight answer about that. Is their a residue on the bottom side of the radiator cap? Is there black residue inside of the coolant overflow bottle..Is there a double core or single core radiator. In UT, you would want to have a double core radiator. Take is out for a drive and see if it gives off white smoke out the exhaust, once it warms up. You will have to drive it quite a bit to see if it uses coolant. Look in the wheel wells to see if the rubber overload bumpers are still there. You may have to have some welded back in, like I did.

I have removed the engine to change the clutch, and removed the transmission to change the clutch. It is far easier to remove the engine, and you have less likelihood of dying when and if the car slips off of the jacks. Trust me.

The wire coming off of the hot alternator stud, may have grown brittle and lost conductivity. Same for the engine ground wire at that connection to the frame, in front of the battery. Same goes for the wire from the bottom of the fusible link box at the connection to the battery hot terminal.

The coolant temperature gauge may leak coolant onto the top of the block at the front.

You never mentioned the mileage or whether it still has the original engine. Therefore, nobody can give you a good number.