Suba9792

your going to dump more in it then its worth, you might as well keep it for yourself, find a newish model to fix up.

My kit came from importexperts, and it came with the WP for $124 + shipping, don't just do the belt and idlers, do the water pump as well, cam seals,crank seal and reseal the oil pump, you don't want to end up going back in there a few weeks or months after to reseal it, it just makes sense to do it while everything up front is open and off. And get all the seals and gaskets from the dealer!!! better quality. If the WP seal looks like paper or card board its crap.

I'd say you had a massive HG blowout, major loss of oil and coolant.

I have the Toyo Observes on my 97 Lego, and they are sweet, grip like crazy in the snow a little slippage on ice but no complaints.

if you have a 5mt just do it at the next clutch job if its not leaking bad.

crazy, I didn't know the aftermarket ones were steel! I thought the aluminum ones are the aftermarket hahhaha that is good info for the future.

again this is why everyone gets screwed at shops, they are just a bunch of crooks, do the brakes yourself its not hard even for a newbie. Ive done my own brakes for years after a les Schwab screw up, they left off one pad, air in the system, coming down from Mt.Hood was a scary feat after that. They refunded all of the money and I did them myself, this was on a 85 Chevy 1/2ton SWB with 10" lift.

I have the fog on real cold mornings, no big deal.

Yeah I'm stumped on this one, the odds of two bad fans just seems to not be the case, I'm leaning towards a fuse and or this auxiliary fan control that I saw on partsgeek.com. who knows but its winter(more like a real wet fall) and its not hot out so no AC is no biggie. But Its going to get under my skin as well as the mystery clunk in the rear which I'm 75%sure its the rear diff mount and links etc.

Mine was leaking pretty bad, be sure to loctite the screws on the aluminum one. and while your down there clean it up with some brushes, solvent, a flat razor for the mating surfaces and some elbow grease. The aluminum one I received for free:brow: another guy was tearing down a 25d at GDs and it was on there! he just gave it to me, don't think he realized its $37 at the dealer ahahhahahaha mine now. But it was much appreciated.

Time for an EJ22 swap, GD did one in a Legacy GT and I have had the privilege of driving it for a few days, the gearing from the GT made the 2.2 seem like it had the 2.5. I'd also assume the same would be for the OB.

I'll check that out, I was also thinking that it may be the auxiliary fan control, but start with the cheapest first.

So A while back GD did the t-belt job on the Legacy, it was obvious the radiator has a slight clog and the AC fan was not coming on....so Yesterday we put in a new used confirmed good one and the radiator took the fluid no prob. We then let it get to operating temp so the fan would kick on worked great, then tried to get the AC fan on and nothing! do they run on some kind of secondary system because I just can see why two of them would not work, GD was thinking there could be a bad wire somewhere. Any ideas??

I'd rather have the old Legacy B4.

ITS DONE!!!!! finally.... that shop I went to a almost two years ago caused me some pain:horse:. Much destruction and carelessness, I'm still pissed about their shady work. But no worries GD helped me out, I did my first clutch:headbang: now onto the next.

I'm sure there may be a board member in his area that can help. Most parts stores, carquest,napa will help him do it, not like it takes forever to do it.

Yeah that sucked, but it didnt make me as pissed as the shady clutch job crap, warning to all!!!!!! dont forget the alignment pins, and if a shop does it confirm they are in!. Oh well, at least it will be done right this time, I like the theory you have about the input bearing and the pin bit, makes perfect sense.

I almost forgot! when we pulled the bad trans, guess what we didnt find that we should have..... a missing alignment pin:mad: the bastards that did the clutch last time didnt put it back in, and they busted up some of my electrical connectors.

be sure to replace your cam seals,crank seal,oil pump o-ring, with new ones from the dealer only, I have been told that some of the aftermarkets prematurely fail.

this is funny because I was just talking to GD today about how many tranny problems have been posted lately, seems to be a trend:banghead: I thought I had a bad input shaft bearing, but today we pulled it out and there was basically no play and all, GD thinks its most likely a failing center diff. I have some grinding in mine but its(was) most likely gear damage and not bearing related. I'm just glad its getting a new(used) one

I am truly tired after today:lol: I'm hoping we can get that axle out of the hub assembly, but at least you have a donor car:banana: I'm curious to see if it is the center diff since there is no input shaft play, if that imp tranny is hosed I will be so pissed:grin:

Are you sure its from the brakes?, if so it could be a poorly reinstalled caliper thats hung up and rubbing, I've seen it happen on cars that go to Les Schwab:rolleyes: . The mpg issue could be related, if something on the brakes is hung up it could be in a way holding things back causing the loss of mpg, someone else will pipe up, I'm still a newbie:). Just for S&G I'd do a tranny flush if you have an AT, drain it,flush it, refill it and top it off with some tran-X.

So as many of you know I have been having probs with my 5MT in the Lego. Mysterious sounds, me frantically trying to figure it out with no avail, well tomorrow is the day that we shall see just what is happening down under(no pun intended). I'm bringing the wagon to GD, we are tearing down the car and doing a trans swap, found a used one from a IMP with an EJ18 and 3.90 rear end, probably have more power in 5th due to the tranny being geared for the EJ18, but no biggie since I travel on Mt.Hood almost weekly, the extra pull will be nice:) . I'm just stumped at why it has failed at only 142k?? I know they have bad input shaft bearings but I thought those tend to last more than 142k miles. I've had the car since it had 113k, the day I got it I took it and replaced the front and rear diff fluid and all scheduled maintenance. Only replaced the clutch once. and I did the fluid again about 4 months ago. I don't beat it up per say, just a lot of mountain driving and forest roads. I'm going to try and post pics of the inside and of what we find. Its growling in 1st,2nd,3rd,4th on decel but not much in 5th, getting tougher to get into 2nd gear, some slight grinding in 3rd and 4th, clunking in between all gears. I'll keep everyone posted on our findings... it should be interesting, and fun:banana: Learning from GD is like Yoda to Luke:lol: master Recent work, within the last 4 months. Timing belt Kit Water Pump Oil pump re seal New KYB GR2s, I did them myself and it was a pita. 2 oil changes, castrol Syntec blend 5w30 new cam seals (dealer purchased) radiator hoses. Thermostat Coil pack spark plugs plug wires PCV valve new fog lamp bulbs New interstate MT-35 Wix fuel filter Wix air filter New crank seal (dealer purchased) New set of Toyo Observes studless snow tires, yeah they rock:grin: pretty aggressive tread pattern.

vacuum leak?? is it an AT or 5MT? check the EGR. sounds like a vacuum leak to me or failing fuel pump.

just because it pulls up hills doesn't always mean the clutch is good. I'd put my money on the disc and TOB any day.