LeoneTurbo

Take a look where the injectors sit on the EA81 turbo engine. You can modify carb heads, weld bungs on for the injectors. You could even use EA82T parts like MAF, injectors, sensor, wiring loom and ECU and just leave out the turbo.

Especially with registration difficulties in Belgium I would stick with the EA81 engine. You could try to get a SPI setup (it really only is a main wiring loom, an intake manifold with throttle body / injector, the distributor and the ECU) or go for an aftermarket standalone ECU. With the EA81 RX heads and dual carb setup (the single EA82 carb is too small to make a decent power increase) the EA81 engine produced 110 PS in Japan, with twin throttle bodies and sequential fuel injection and some nice trumpets you could make close to 130 hp with a decent camshaft.

Welcome Kenneth - regarding that cam, it will be next to impossible to source one but you could always have one made from a blank at Cat Cams in Belgium

+1 fo rthe hoses, but what about the fuel lines that run along the sill?

No, strangely enough there are no A pistons listed on my official USDM factory parts CD. The 020 part number is for second oversize carb piston and the 040 is for the first oversize SPI piston...

Now that is interesting... Keep us posted on those axles - I yet have to decided what to use for my AWD swap with Legacy hubs on my 84 Wagon.

I couldn't agree more. I bet they did it because the home market was asking for more technology during the mid 80s and as the EJ series was not yet finished they created an OHC engine off the EA81. The EA81 is light, compact, reliable, easy to maintain whereas the EA82 is not - in all areas. Compared to the EA81, the EA82 basically is what the EJ25 engine is compared to the EJ20/22: a crappy overstressed design that should never have made it into production.

RH SPI piston 12013AA030 grade 'B' LH SPI piston 12018AA030 grade 'B'

I think there's a difference between 2WD an 4WD fuel lines. The 4WD fuel lines are 8 mm (same as EJ series an EA Turbo) and the 2WD are smaller. As long as you have a 4WD you'll be fine.

Why do you want to use different pistons? If you plan to use the EA81 heads why not stick with the EA81 pistons or do you want to increase compression ratio?

OK. I will make my own pillow ball top mount and will use the EA81 spring on a modified EJ strut.

I notice a worn drive shaft boot on your RH side axle... Better replace it before it shreds your CV!

I was already impressed by the stance you gave that wagon but now I understand Relish that sleeping time, it will soon be over (I have two sons, my oldest just turned 3 in May and my youngest turns 2 in September).

Very nice Hatch, I wish mine was in such a good shape. Take good care of it

The finished cluster with 180 km/h speedo with speedsensor and tachometer with ECS lamp:

Are you confident cut and welded axles will hold and/or not vibrate at speed? I'm also debating what to to with the axles for my EA81/EJ20 AWD swap but I will probably respline the wheel end.

Awaiting presentation of the car for registrattion, I modified the instrument cluster I'm planning to install: I removed the speed sensor signal thing from the unit Jim (ruparts) kindly sent me, and installed it on the European speedo. I need the speed signal for the JDM engine ECU I'm going to use. New updates and pics will follow.

The difference in compression comes from the pistons (turbo has a deeper dish). I know you can use n/a MPI heads on a turbo block but I'm not sure if you ever got MPI non turbo in the US (we got them in Europe, 105 hp w/o cat and 98 hp with cat).

That's what I wondered too I'm sure it will work just fine with my 3.900 EJ-box as the ratio is only 0.3% off. I was amazed it had that plate diff, I didn't even notice it until I was driving behind it on the way home from picking it up, there was a shiny sticker on the diff... I bought a bunch of new spares from an ex-dealer and they also gave me the original showroom colour cards so that makes it easier to pick a colour. We're now debating either Extra Black (code 74) or Reef Blue (code 46) for the paint job.

Two weeks ago I bought this 1984 EA81 Wagon 4WD. It is in decent shape, but I want to replace the outer sills with custom made ones out of thicker, better quality steel. Besides that, it needs some welding on the rear wheel arches and a new paint job as my wife doesn't like the Moss Green. It has a few nice factory options like power steering, electric mirrors and a 3.889 rear plate LSD! I will register the car next week and once I got the plates and pass the road worthiness test I will start work on it. Things to do: - body work (see above) - EJ engine swap and install LPG (Liquified Petroleum Gas) fuel system - EJ AWD D/R 3.900 5-speed gearbox swap - EJ series front hubs/brakes and rear Cross Bred 5-lug disk brake kit - install dash with extended instrument cluster - find beige Forester seats - finish chrome bumper swap

Finally back online, glad you guys fixed it!

So I did a search but found nothing wich helped answering my question: if I modify the body to accept the 3-bolt EJ front strut mount but keep the EA81 suspension arms modified to fit the EJ ball joint and knuckle, will the EJ strut and spring clear the EA81 body (especially aorund the spring seat, seen cross car)?

No need, the OBD1 ECU's are so unadvanced they will run anything from 1.8 to 2.5 without the need of reprogramming. Just make sure you use engine loom, bulkhead loom and ECU from same donor vehicle.

So it won't fit then, thanks!

Does the rear seat from a Hatch fit into a Wagon?