LeoneTurbo

Compression height of EJ20 pistons is typically between 32.7 and 33.5 mm depending model year and head gasket thickness. Wrist pin diameter is 23 mm. I no longer have EA parts to compare/measure.

Yep, only the bore is the same (EJ20), all other piston dimensions are off.

Nice! What did you use for ignition (distributor etc)?

Hmm.... Check points: - Are the diff ratios the same? - Does the newer tranny have the axle stubs sticking out or are they integrated into the axles (which then go into the 'box) - Can you swap the clutch fork (I believe so but not sure) or make the newer fork work with cable (as you said)

Just to prevent any confusion: if Bram is talking about L1 he actually means EA81

EA81 ENGINE Distance from bolt center of engine mount to bell housing transmission mating surface is est. 80 mm EJ TRANS Distance from bell housing to centre line of axle stubs is est. 165 mm. This and all of the above means, that the distance for EA81 driveline from engine mount slot in the subframe right to the transmission axle stub is 230 mm, identical to the EJ-driveline. So only the difference in transmission length must be compensated for by a longer prop shaft, which should be extended by 175 mm for all EA81 cars except the 2-door hatch.

VW TDI in a Subaru? Blasphemy, pure blasphemy

What horrible news! Good to hear your uncle is OK, I hope everythings sorts out with your car and insurance...

The windshield weatherstrips are available new from Subaru and currently also available on Ebay.com

Nice! I'm almost at the same point of a project, awaiting my (even more) gutted EA81 wagon back from the painters just before Christmas.

185cc is not enough to support the power figures of the EA82T. I think they are closer to 280cc.

Mechanically there's hardly anything to go wrong (except CV axles, obviously) but really pay attention to rust. If there's rust around the bottom of the windshield you can count on it that the lower A-pillar is also starting to rot. Because the weather strips get drzy and hard they no longer keep the water out and water accumulates. Pull away the carpet on the driver's side and check the footwell in the A-pillar area.

I know people in Europe who would pay twice that w/o a motor if the body is in decent shape

So I finally got around to remove the tranny from my EA81. Measurements: EA81 TRANSMISSION Distance from bell housing engine mating surface to end of transmission is est. 970 mm (measured from end of dust cap to bell housing). Distance from bell housing to centre line of axle stubs is est. 150 mm. Distance from bell housing to centre line of mounting hole for gear lever is est. 860 mm (don't know what position the rod was in, neutral, 3rd or 4th ) Distance from bell housing to EA81 transmission mount bolts is est. 470 mm. EA81 ENGINE If forgot to measure before I sold the engine, so if anyone with a spare engine would care to measure the distance from bell housing to centre of engine mount bolts...

Nice but I would ditch the Loyale E4AT. For wheeling and track I think a manual would be more suitable.

You could use a transparent self-adhesive foil on the inside to make it safer.

That's not just the EJ257, but all post-1999 engines (SOHC and DOHC share same gaskets/pattern) and all pre-1999 DOHC engines.

I've been quoted 3500 Euro for a paint job for my EA81 Wagon. That includes: 1. Paint (duh) non-metallic 2. Anti-rust treatment inside and out 3. Labour (incl. removing dents and pre-paint prep) I thought that was pretty expensive but I've been told this is for a quality paint job. I could also bring my car to Poland (1200 km from here) and they would do the same for probably 1/3 of the price but hey whom do I turn to if problems occur a down the line? So I've started saving up

I would not use it for front or side windows, maybe for rear and quarter windows. Especially if you're also running the applicable vehicle on public roads.

Nice find! If only we had rust free EA81 cars here in Europe...

Today I removed the doors, all the glass, steering column and rear lights from my donor EA81 wagon. Now I only have to remove the transmission and suspension before I can scrap the body.

All side-feed non-turbo injectors for EJ-series Phase I engines (at least 1.8/2.2/2.5L) are 280cc/min and thus work with any non-turbo ECU for Phase I engines. I've been running 1989-1991 EJ22E injectors on a 1997 ECU w/o problems.

When you unplug the knock sensor it will run fine just throw a CEL. When you unbolt the knock sensor but keep it connected the engine won't run at all... So I can imagine if the sensor is faulty it could cause rough engine running in some cases.

All Phase I SOHC cam timing pulleys are exactly the same. The only difference is the first gen Legacy use sensors with long leads, the later cars use sensors with connector w/o lead.

Back to the engine... If it stil has the timing belt covers, there is a chance that there still is a sticker with barcode and engine code on the center cover. I bet it is either a EJ20X or EJ20Y, depending if it is MT or AT. Those engines have dual AVCS (variable valve timing on intake and exhaust) and a compression ratio of 9.5 (high for a turbo, hence senstive to tune and easy to break).