LeoneTurbo

Very nice! Where did you get those wheel arch extensions?

Subaru dealers had a special nut for this. I also have it, but I don't have any plans to do a head gasket job - due to a lack of EA engines

I think you've got the torque and HP numbers and rpm's mixed... Other than that, great result!

Valley of Death

I bought it from Yahoo Japan Auctions, I get parts via Japan Auction Centre. They are readily available new.

New update... The brakes are fine now, right front CV has been swapped but the 'new' one also clonks I picked up a free set of coil over Bilsteins (off a 2003 WRX) which had a broken spring. They are the PS9 version which means they are adjustable. The dampers themselves seem to be fine still. I'm calculating spings which fit the weight of the car better and make them not so harsh... Obviously, I will only be using the front struts. I expect my second hand adjustable top mount to arrive in the next few days so I can modify it to fit the standard 2-bolt pattern on the body. Another update is a contemporary steering wheel... The boss I bought new in Japan, the steering wheel off Ebay Germany. I already started sanding it as it was slightly worn but that is a hell of a job - so that will take a while. I want to stain the wheel slightly darker brown/mahony before applying new layers of clear coat.

The (in)famous VOD

Note that there wasn't a diff lock available on any EJ MT transmission, those vacuum boxes are for 'on-demand' 4WD so they are not full-time. Most EJ transmissions are though, and the D/R usually have a reduction of 1.4-1.5 and final gear is 3.900 or 4.111. But I could be wrong and that Subaru supplied different units to Oceania

I guess I will just have the measure then... I will measure the length of engine + transmission from the engine mounts in the subframe right to the end of the transmission where the prop shaft goes, for both EA 4-sp and EJ 5-sp and I will post the numbers here, maybe today if stops raining...

Interesting... I will be doing a 5-sp EJ swap this summer but wondered about getting the 2-piece drive shaft as I thought it would be better for high speed driving (less vibrations) but apperantly I should also stick with the 1-piece shaft and have it extended. How much extension (preferrably in mm but inch will also do ) are we looking at from EA 4-sp to EJ 5-sp?

My '84 EA81 wagon passed it's first annual test (I imported it from Germany) and it only needed a new head lamp bulb (checked it the night before but hey) and bearing clearance on left front adjusted. Other than that is sailed through with only remarks regarding some minor rust - which will be taken care of in a month or so. My two kids (just turned 3 and almost 2) love the wagon above my current 98 Legacy, but I'm sure that will change when my wife brings home er new 2010 Legacy Wagon tomorrow...

Can't the bell housing be swapped between EA71 and EA81?

The ECU will run any normally aspirated engine up to even the EJ25. If you want to stay n/a I wouldn't spend too much on a shortblock - and there is no such thing as a forged EJ20T unless you mean the semi-closed deck EJ207 STI engine 2001 and up. It has forged pistons and decent rods, all previous STI engines had/have the same crappy rods as your EJ18 and only some (STI V3 and up) have forged but heavy pistons.

EA81 4WD S/R wagon, original engine, serial number 356080, delivered new in Germany, april 3rd 1984.

In that case why not source a complete EJ22 longblock and swap it in? No wiring issues etcetera and 30 hp gain over stock.

Yes it will bolt to the transmission. You'll have a few spare bolt holes on the engine

You could if you used the headgaskets for the DOHC block but since the SOHC heads are different (more combustion chamber volume) you would lose some compression. Personally I wouldn't use any EJ25DOHC block w/o full history as they often need the bottom end rebuilt. Besides that, before you put on the heads it would be best to resurface the mating surface of the block as that is were the head gaskets issues come from - the block deck wears out against the gasket, the heads are rarely warped.

It might fit but won't work as it is electronically completely different.

But... the brake shoe adjustment wheel is on the bottom originally... Anyway it probably won't make any diffence regarding stopping power I will continue to follow your proceedings with high interest. What wheel hub/carrier did you use?

Nice work but you swapped the backing plates left-right. Is that accidental or was it easier to route the e-brake cable or something...? That aside, great visual presentation of what I need to / want to do soon aswell What is the difference in diameter of that hole for which you made that ring?

Yep as he says. The liners are only 4-5 mm thick so if you want to go from 87.9 to 92.0 you'll end up with only 2 mm thick cylinder walls - which is very good for cooling but a lot less for reliability!

Always match the head gasket bore to the block you're using and match the thickness to the piston (ie. if the piston protrudes the deck you need the 1.4mm gasket, if it is even with or below the deck you need either 0.8 or 0.6 mm gasket). Maybe this helps? It's not perfect (some EJ257 numbers are wrong) but the older stuff is wel covered. http://www.b4et.com/dosc/090618_ej_compression_ratio_matrix.pdf

First relevant upgrade done: master cylinder of a 1993 Legacy: Still have to bleed the brakes and modify the sensor/connector for the brake fluid light. Now all I have to do to pass the annual road worthiness test is swap the exhaust manifold as it's got a few holes. Oh and the clutch is almost gone but that will have to wait for the EJ swap.

Just for my understanding: the engine that's now in the car, is it a USDM 2.5L Forester engine or a JDM 2.0L Forester Turbo engine?

I've got a couple of JDM EA81 sales catalogues but none show the badge in detail. By the way, all EUDM EA81 4WD cars also got that badge. I think I've got a 'spare' badge that I could send you if that helps, but I will have to look.