2manetoys

I'm pretty sure that the 14035**** is a Subaru part number. they were about $8.00 each at my nearest dealership.

I just recently bought these for my weber Conversion on my 85 Brat. Here are the #s on the plastic sleeves that they came in: 14035AA150 in smaller #s down below that is 061004 S. Hope that helps! 2manetoys

I'm sure they can. The friendliest most knowledgeable group I've seen so far. BTW, We all Love PICS! Show us your Rig!

Well, it was pretty warm when I bought it so I never turned on the heater to see if it worked. It doesn't seem to have leaked based on the lack of staining on the carpet and the lack of the syrupy smell in the cab. To replace the foam around the "ductwork" in the cab, what kind should I use? Anything special or just the basic single side taped the you can use around home doors?

I've got an 85 Brat that I'm working on a mild Custom / restoration. Dashboard was severely cracked and I was able to find an uncracked replacement for $75. I've got the old dash out, but I remember reading a comment in a thread somewhere that I should replace the heater coil while I've got the dash out. Any truth to this? And I recently bought a 92 Loyale with the Push button 4WD (no Turbo) and I was wondering if anyone had a link to a EA82 FSM. Thanks, AJ

I wouldn't worry about offending them. It's worth what you're willing to pay. Personally, with all the cleanup, replacing the CVJ and clutch, I'd offer $500 and stop at $600. But it depends entirely on what you are willing to pay and what you want it for.

+1 on the loose battery terminal connections. Don't just check to make sure that the terminals are connected tightly to the posts, but also check to make sure that the wires are tightly connected to the terminals. That's where I found my problem with the single click.

Double Bonus! Enjoy!

Welcome to Subaru ownership! I can't speak for anyone else, but I've done about the same as you have to 4 or 5 different Subarus. I'm just beginning to learn how to properly take care of them. In fact, I finally found a 1985 BRAT that I"m in the slow, but steady process of doing a Slight Custom / Restoration on. I've wanted one for 17 years so, I'm determined to do it right this time. Which is why I found this place. Welcome aboard.

Speaking of the valve covers and gaskets, any special treatment they need ( RTV ) before installing? And if I'm going to reseal the engine, I assume that I should wait until I have all the gaskets to do the Valve cover gaskets.

Here's a digital copy of the 83 Factory Service Manual. 1983 FSM Good Luck!

Glad to hear it. Wish I would have.

That's Beautiful! What happened to it?

Excellent! Will do. Back when I found the Carter Weber carb in the junkyard I've been going to lately, I took it out Intake and all. There are 6 (?) bolts in the intake if memory serves and only one broke off, but it was halfway out when it did and I didn't have WD40 with me at the time. It has since been added to my "junkyard tool kit" along with my floor jack, breaker bar, etc. etc. if you don't mind, I might send you a PM before hand.

+1. the Floor board was shot the one I had and I had neither the know how, time or $$ to get it fixed. Finally got hauled off to the junkyard. (

Good points! I did spend an hours or so tearing apart the Distributor that you suggested I replace (the old one) just to see how it worked and managed to put it back together without any spare parts and adjusted the spacing of the part that's held on by the magnet and 2 screws ( I still don't know the name of the part) so that it was evenly spaced on both sides of the rotor. Maybe I'll put it back in and see if it still works or works any better than it used to. Thanks, for the advice.

Jacob, I don't know if I'll be ready for an EJ swap anytime soon. I've got to agree with GD (post above this one) that my skill level isn't up to a rebuild of an EA81 yet, and that's a relatively simple motor. So putting an EJ that's got a lot more parts that I still don't quite understand how they inter-relate would be expensive as well as time-consuming. I've owned 5 or so Subarus before and have always been amazed at how well they ran in spite of my lack of mechanical care and knowledge. Which is why now that I have the means to properly care for one, I finally got one that I wanted for a long time (like 17 years). I really want to learn HOW this thing works and WHY it works the way it does (or doesn't as I'm currently experiencing). There is only so much I can learn from reading here until I understand What the part is ( "Doo-hickey" and "Whatchamadingle" aren't Actual part names that I know of. LOL ). At this point, I am basically a part replacer and have limited diagnostic capabilities. As I take things apart and put them back together (or try to), I learn the how and why. Within a couple of weeks of buying the Brat, my dad and I went to a Junkyard that he told me about together and spent about 5 hours pulling parts and wrenching on parts some of which I will probably Never use (like the Carter Weber Carb). It was hot as all get out, and we pulled ticks off ourselves for hours afterwards as the junkyard is in a wooded area, but I've got to say it was worth every Dollar spend, every drop of sweat, and the slight risk of Lyme disease just tinkering with Dad. Does it get any better?

I've got the Weber Carb on the way and I'm working on a seat swap. I've got about a month and a half before this will have to be my DD. It's currently a garage resident and subject to 2am tinkering as I get to know it. I have the valve cover gaskets that I know I need to replace as I have oil leaking on the garage floor. Basically my question is this: Since it has 182K miles, should i just pull the motor and get a rebuild kit or should I just reseal it and go?

I know that most of the Gen 1 Brat canopies were taller than the Gen 2s and I think that there is a difference in the angle of the sides as well where it comes up from the "bed" to meet the roof of the BRAT

Glad I could be of some use here. LOL. Being a new guy with limited mechanical skills I sometimes feel like a fish trying to ride a bicycle. hehehe. But I'm learning and loving it.

Per GDs recommendation I'm trying a used complete distributor to see if that was the problem. I should have a Weber Carb on the way (Thanks renob!) that I'll be adding to the mix. Hope to have the seats in by Monday and I'll LYK if the Disty was the problem. Glad you weren't hurt in the Brakes incident on your RV. So where are you originally from?

Doesn't get any better than the Factory Service Manual. http://www.mikeshoup.com/docs/fsm/EA81/ Section 4. 19 pages of Hitachi carb rebuilding info.

Check the Retrofitting forum for advise about the Engine swap, but if what I've read is correct (and I'm going from memory on what I read, not questioning the accuracy of the info), the EJ with the DOHC is dang near impossible, but the Siingle Overhead Cam EJ20 has been done several times and a Good write up is in the Retrofitting section. Hardest part of the EJ20 or 22 swap is the wiring from what I understand. depends on your skill level and mechanical know how as to how hard it is.

So far I've replace the Fuel filter (between the door & driver's rear tire underneath) , evaporator filter (under the hood next to the firewall on the Driver's side), coil, and now the distributor (used). I'm in the middle of replacing the seats with seats from a Legacy with the height adjustment (which is making it a mild PITA due to the brackets for the height adjustment), but once I get them back in, I'll take it for a cruise and see how far I get. The only 2 things left that I can think of since I'm getting fuel and fire at least for a while is that maybe the second barrel isn't opening on the carb correctly, which means I need to rebuild / replace (upgrade to Weber) the carb or the Fuel pump is not staying on and I might need to check the wires on it or replace it.