2manetoys

Sweet! And LMK if you need any parts for your Brat as I found some older Brats & wagons they supposedly will work for body parts from the doors Forward.

SWEET! And it's got the Cyclops too!

Sound advice. that's what's holding me up at the moment. That and a bit of Indecision as to which project to tackle first. LOL

Since I haven't done it myself yet, I can't offer any specific tips other that to read and re-read Numbchux's write up version 2.0 (link is on the last page of the thread). and a request: Please take LOTS of pics! I must have missouri somewhere in my bloodline cause I am definitely a Show me kind of guy. LOL Good Luck!

Looks like a Great time was had by all and I love the lineup pics. Gives me ideas for my BRAT. Wish either I lived closer to you guys or vice versa.

87 GL. Is that with 2 headlights or 4? Perhaps an easier question: is it an EA81 motor or an EA82? And which Carb does it have? Hitachi or Carter Weber? On the inside of the hood should be a drawing of the vacuum lines. not totally complete, but the basics.

Sounds like waaaaaaaaaaaay too much work to mod the distributor. There are a couple of things I'm going to try (using the carb cleaner to check for vacuum leaks and I'm going to check the gasket at where the intake and Hitachi carb come together to see if it leaks). If none of those work it's going to a semi-local mechanic. Right now I think I've narrowed it down to vacuum leak, fuel pump, distributor or carb. I really need to find that swap from hitachi to carter weber carb thread.

I'll see if I can find one around here. would a disty off an EA82 work on mine? No abnormal tachometer jump, just when I'm shifting or accelerating / decelerating. But I'll watch closer to see if the tach jumps when it's lurching next time.

K. I'll look that up and see what I can find out about it. Back to the research.

Replaced the coil now as well as the Fuel Filter (rear). Plenty of gas up to the "vapor separator" (what the FSM calls the filter looking thing under the hood) and STILL dies after 2 or 3 miles. Let me see if I can describe it any better. Car starts fine, very little trouble. put it in gear and go down the road. No Problem. There's an small exhaust leak so I get the higher pitched noise when I accelerate. anywhere from 1-5 miles down the road as I'm pressing or even sometimes just holding the accelerator in place, the pitch of the exhaust drops, all power is gone to the motor. Push the pedal to the floor and it will lurch forward for a second or 2, the back to no power. Still moves, but no power. repeats until the car has lost momentum or I shut it down for a few minutes. then starts right back up and will go for another short time / distance. Usually gets shorter as the process is repeated more often. 3 weeks ago, I drove it almost 100 miles home and it did this once. now I can barely make it out of the housing addition that I live in without it happening. Since I bought it I've replaced: Oil & filter Air filter (there was some oil in the filter housing, but none now.) Starter (overlooked a loose wire on the battery cable DUH! ) Spark Plugs (cap rotor & wires look new) Ignition Coil Fuel Filter This is my first time really doing anything with a carbureted vehicle so there's a LOT that I'm still learning. I want to EJ it sometime preferably this summer, but if I can't figure out mechanical stuff like vacuum hoses and carburetors, then maybe I'm not up to tracking down wires and ECUs, and such. I'm gonna check out the connections on the fuel pump, but I'm at a loss as to what else to check. I've read about checking the vacuum hoses with carburetor cleaner and I assume that it is done with the motor running. but I'm not sure of exactly what to look for when I do. I'm gonna spend some time reading the FSM on the emission system on the Mike Shoup link that I found somewhere on this wonderful site. I don't remember which thread I found it on, but I bookmarked it! I think it's for an 83 which should be very similar to the 85 I have. Thanks for all the help guys! it truly is appreciated.

Fuel Filter replaced. Plenty of gas up front now. Still dying after shorter and shorter distances. I'm thinking I need to replace the ignition coil. Gonna try that today. Wish me luck! Gonna get this thing running right if it kills me!

Well, However it works out, I hope it's for the best.

Lucky Bugger! what's it going into? And take lots of Pics for us less-than-mechanically inclined. LOL Congrats Again!

Thanks for the tips. New filter next to the Pump in front of the drivers' rear tire) goes in tomorrow (I'm supposed to be at work right now and have to go back in a minute. ), and hopefully that will take care of it. I'll let you know.

I'm having trouble with the Brat dying because it's not getting enough fuel. Hitachi Carb. I've checked all the connections and there are no fuel leaks, checked all the wires I can get to except having removed the Fuel pump and checking it's electrical contacts. I'll be changing the fuel filter tomorrow (just to be sure that's not it) and I'm looking into replacing the fuel pump. Fuel pump doesn't making any noise when the key is turned to the ON position engine not running, but the car starts & drives for a few miles anyway. Anything else I should check out? I don't have a multimeter (yet) or anything to check fuel pressure. If I need to replace the fuel pump any recommended outlets for buying one. I need this to hold me over until I gather the $$ and parts for the EJ22 swap.

If only it were closer. AZ to IN is a bit far for a motor & parts car. Good luck to whoever Snags it though.

Good to know. I am fortunate in that my father lives 7 miles away and has a lift installed in his garage so that will help with a lot of things as far as acess goes. Another thing I'll have to consider on the EJ22 is the effect, if any, of the fact that the EJ22 is currently bolted to and I assume wired up for an Automatic. Anyway, I have the PVC valve ordered and it should be in tomorrow so that will at least provide the stop-gap measure to improve drivability until I can get everything ready. Since I have to strip it from the Legacy first, I assume that it would be easier if the car were "on site" rather than having to go to the junkyard all the time as well.

about how long would the EJ22 swap take? and would it be better to have the entire vehicle that the EJ22 is coming out or handy when I did the swap? From what I'm gathering in my reading you can't re-use the wiring if I were to add the SPFI now and later upgrade to the EJ22 correct? I'm trying to formulate my Plan of attack on getting it ready to be a daily driver this fall when my son goes back to high school and will be needing our 3rd car on a daily basis. Here's what I'm planning on doing: 5Speed swap with the adapter kit from Jerry (Bratsrus1). Either EJ22 swap or SPFI install Disc swap on rear Bodywork on the rocker panels. I know that there is mailing and fabricating time on the 5spd swap. I'm guessing 1-2 weeks. I'm guessing it will take about 1.5 weeks to do the EJ22 swap or 3 days to do the SPFI install. 1 day to do the rear disc swap. And 2-3 days on the body work (probably will undercoat it once bodywork is done. Sound reasonable? Or am I being overly optimistic since I'm a rookie at all this?

I guess I'll have to find out how much the EJ22 will cost me. I assume that I should rebuild/refresh it (170K on Odometer I think). The fun part of this is that the salvage yard all these cars are in is very reminiscent of a jungle. I took my weedeater with me today so I could clear a path and startle any local wildlife (rabbits, snakes, etc.) at the same time. Project for tonight is to try to install Legacy seats in Brat. After finding our little Scuni steamer and cleaning the seats. Mice had lived (and pee'd on them) but didn't chew them up. gonna dig through the USRM too.

Wow! Take lots of Pics and show us the before and after! That would be cool. And LMK if you find the PCV valve. If you do, take a pic of it. So I know EXACTLY where mine is. LOL!

I think I have finally found everything that I will need in one junkyard except the rear disc brakes. Only thing is, it's on 2 or 3 different vehicles depending on EJ22 swap or SPFI on the EA81. I found an SPFI that I can add to the EA81 (following your instructions GD ) in one wagon. Will this eliminate the PCV valve problem that I'm currently having? Runs rich until it hits operating temp, then acts like it's stalling or flooded then dies, but will restart a few minutes later and run a short distance. In another wagon I can get the 5 Spd D/R tranny. Today when I got the Seats from a 90 Legacy sedan (if memory Serves me correctly, the pics will correct me if my memory has failed) and discovered that it has an EJ22 if I decide to go that route (which I'm seriously considering even though the wiring stuff part of the task is daunting for someone who can't even Identify which vacuum line goes to the PCV valve on his EA81. ) Grrrr. I'll find it yet. LOL Here's the full set of pics: link to the Gore's Salvage pics

The SPFI doesn't have the same blue Air filter housing on top of the motor that the EA82 & EA81 has though does it? It should say SPFI like in the pics from your write up, correct? Also, Since the same Junkyard has 4 or 5 Loyale body style cars, would it make a difference on the wiring if I took an SPFI from an Automatic Transmission car/motor and put it on the Manual tranny EA81 Brat? I'm heading to the Junkyard now to pull the seats from the Legacy (could that have the EJ22? ) armed with a weedeater, camera and tools. I'll post pics of what subarus I find and perhaps that will help with decision making on parts. Thanks for all the help and info!

I work a 12 hour night shift tonight, but after work, I'm going back to the junkyard armed with my camera so I can get some good pics of the wagon and motor in question as well as pics of a 78 Brat for some of our fellow board members in the Historic forum to see if they can use them. Dude, funny that you mentioned the Seats because I found a nice set of Dark Blue seats from a Legacy that I'll be picking up there as well. As for the wheels, they aren't that big of a deal to me, but I work for an aluminum wheel manufacturer so I could theoretically get them customized to some degree. I'm keeping an eye out for some Peugot wheels, but I haven't found any yet. Gotta get the motor going right first. Speaking of motors, I remember the timing belts on the EA82 from my previous Loyale wagons being a real PITA to deal. Thanks for the reminder. I've been reading up on the EJ22 swap, but I haven't gotten comfortable enough working on with the EA81 I've got to start on a bigger project like the EJ22. Mostly it's the wiring part that is daunting for me. I'll get there. OF course I also have to find one. GD. I just bookmarked your write up on the SPFI swap. I don't have time to completely read it at the moment, but I will read it very soon. I'll also be checking out the wagon for SPFI vs TBI. Also, Thanks for the tip about the PCV valve that you gave in another thread. I think I'm having a similar problem to a lesser degree. I'll call the dealer tomorrow and get the necessary parts. As Always, Thanks for the Advice. Picking up the seats tomorrow so maybe I'll have to start a "build" thread. I'll have a little more info tomorrow afternoon and pics as well.

While parts hunting for my 85 Brat, I stumbled (almost literally) across this 78 Brat. The floor pan is shot as is most of the interior, but I've seen a couple of thing on people's wishlists that I might be able to pick up. My email is 2manetoys@sbcglobal.net

I found a junkyard today that has a late 80s Loyale wagon with a 5spd D/R tranny, an EA82 motor( I don't think it's a turbo so I might not be able to do othe rear disc swap), and aluminum wheels. I can buy the whole car for $450 (not sure if the motor/tranny is any good or not) or just the motor, tranny & wheels for $300. I'll probably go back out on Wednesday or Thursday and get some good pics. I know that there is some pretty extensive damage to the rear hatch, and drivers side just behind the front doors (which is why I couldn't open the door to get the year), and the windows were down so the interior is shot. What do you guys think? is it better to get the whole car and then scrap it once I've gutted it or just snag the parts I want (would have to turn it on it's side )? As a point of refence, the current motor is an EA81 with (I believe) a Hitachi carb the needs the valve cover gaskets and possibly the oil pan gasket replaced. Idles at 1800 rpms when warmed up and acts like it's not getting a spark after about 40 miles or so of driving, but when shut down and allowed to sit for 5 minutes will restart and drive again for a little while then repeat. This is the engine compartment of my 85 Brat: