Mantis_Toboggan

What year tempo and what year accord? I just found a bunch of data on the springs for those cars, but I found none for the subaru, so I can't find which particular springs I need to get.

probably the transmission oil pan.

Hmm, maybe with the stiffer front springs, I could run my wagon without a front swaybar, at least for comparison.

I'm about to pull the heads off of my core motor in a few minutes. Can I magnaflux aluminum heads? I want to check for cracks. Also, what other measurements should I be aware of? Spring rates seated and "over the nose", cam lobe heights, etc.

If all your components are good, but the fan is not turning on, you could always build your own harness.

Good deal man! I love wiring up stuff for my car.

good deal! Could you show me a diagram?

If you have any pics, I might be able to help.

Nice! You running all the power through the switches or are you using relays?

I did some rewiring for my cooling fan, added a light so I know when the thermoswitch turns it on, and if the thermoswitch is broken or not. Either way, this is the connector, it's right behind the passenger side headlight, it has a blue wire (power), and a yellow wire (ground). This particular connector in the pic has two red wires coming out of it (from the relay circuit I built) Here's a closer pic of where the connector sits. I have removed the charcoal canister, so it should be easy to find once you get that thing out of the way.

Just picked up a core motor for the rebuild! I may have some extra stuff if you guys need it.

Putting the spring in a higher perch location doesn't necessarily stiffen the ride, if the strut normally extends to those regions. It might be stiffer because the valve on the end of the strut rod is operating in a different section of the strut body, which may have less wear. Therefore there may be a tighter clearance which would make the strut damping more stiff.

A strut top lift might end up being easier, plus you can compensate for positive camber gain from the lift. A lot of people on here do it that way, should be more durable than working with the bottom of the strut.

Those look like aluminized exhaust tubing. Maybe you should go for steel.

A bong rip before working on the sube? Well, you ARE from BC... As for the temp sensor, every try a reverse drill bit/easy out?

I pulled the harness connector at the front turn signal and both wires ground. I also pulled the turn signal connector and got ground through the green/blue and green/red wires. When I pulled the turn signal switch off and took it apart, I saw a relay inside it. Is this the only turn signal relay in the circuit? Also, there is a black/red connector that is independent of the main connector, where does this go?

I noticed that I've never seen my radiator fan working. I bought some relay's, one to turn on a light when the coolant temp sens. turns on the fan, and one to bypass that circuit for a manual override. Made a mistake on my diagram, the thermal switch gets its power from the factory harness, not this circuit. 5-way relay, 4-way relay, left over connector from my bumper job, blue lighted switch, green indicator light. Did some testing, found out that the factory harness ground for the fan is shot, so I ran a fresh ground and used a butt connector to tie off the factory ground. Still a little messy, but I have the 4-way relay hooked up for the indicator light, and spliced the power-in so the fan can be fed by the factory or override circuit. Here's a shot of the 5 way circuit sitting in the place where my stereo is supposed to be (stolen before I bought the car). The main power feed is drawn from the cigarette lighter, which is switched and fuse protected, the two output circuits from the relay are also fuse protected. Note: when the fan turns on via the coolant temp switch, it still draws from the factory harness, I just ditched that connectors harness ground. This is the switch and indicator light installed. I'll go back in a paycheck or two and shorten the wires, clean up the mess a bit, probably throw in some black looms to keep them out of the way of other circuits.

Found a core motor for the rebuild/porting. $50!

Variable tire pressure mod

Haha, yeah man. I'll take pics. I might even take my old cracked heads to a bandsaw so I can get some cross-section pics. Oreilly's? lol, I just got a job there like 2 weeks ago.

Haha yeah, I know what I'm getting into. The reason why I'm entertaining the idea of porting is because these engines suck, are cheap, and plentiful. So there isn't much consequence if I ruin a head from overporting, etc. Fixed a bad alternator wire, adapted some high-performance plug wires to the sube.

Good deal! Looks like more crap I can pull from my engine bay. I left it in when I did my weber swap because I thought it was a vacuum canister for the vent switching assy.

Type of Wrenching: Shadetree, Professional, Maintenance What: Had a mustang racecar, did a LOT of work with that, done work on any other car people want to pay me to fix, except audi/vw. How long doing it: 12 years Other skills: Auto electrical diagnostics/repair, A.S., working on my B.S. in M.E.

Very nice! I've been thinking of doing a full rebuild on an EA82, maybe port the heads and manifold a bit, lol.

cranked up the adjustable suspension