Snowman

I completely understand your environmental stance. Remember, though, that the muffler itself does abosolutely nothing to reduce emissions. That is the job of the catalytic converter. So if you want more speed while still being environmentally friendly, take off the muffler and either leave the stock cat or replace it with one that flows better.

How do you adjust the choke on the weber?

Oh man, you have no idea how jealous I am!

You've got an excellent car, but one that will never be "fast". You can however, make it less slow. This is an excellent webpage for cheap and easy things you can do: http://ultimatesubaru.org/80s/ea-performance-page/subaru-ea-performance.html He isn't kidding about the muffler. I put on a $20 aftermarket muffler and it made a big difference. Advancing the timing is also a great idea, you just have to be careful. Usually you can go a few degrees ahead while still running regular gas, and several more if you switch to premium. Probably the best mod you can perform is to install a Weber 32/36 DGEV caruburetor. The stock Hitachi carb is often called the Hicrappy for a reason. I just did the Weber conversion on my 86 wagon, and it makes a huge difference in performance. The only issue here is cost. A complete kit with everything you need (well, on some cars the throttle cable mount must be modified) costs about $340 from Redline Weber. If you've got the money and are planning on keeping the car around for a while, it's worth it. Does your car have solid lifters or hydraulic lifters? If they are solid (they probably are on an 82), you should check and adjust the valve clearances. When the clearances become too loose, you can lose a lot of power. Also, this procedure is pretty easy if you have any sort of shop manual for the car and a couple of hours to spare. Other than that, just make sure that it's tuned-up and you'll have a sweet car that will run forever. And seriously consider the quote in my signature.:-)

Anything will be quiter than a cherry bomb. I think this is the muffler that I am running: http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?part=WLK%2D17715 As I said, it makes a pleasing tone that you can hear, but I would not consider at all loud.

Has anybody used NAPA's rebuild kit? I'm always suspicious of NAPA due to prior experiences, so that's why I'm wondering. It apparently includes everything, even all the seals, and normally costs about $450, but with my student discount I can get it for like $275 I think. That, plus SPFI pistons, plus timing belts, plus (maybe) cams, would end up probably being around $600 in parts. If the clutch and TO bearing are still good (probably a coin toss). Does this sound reasonable?

Try searching for tractor rims. The front rims on my partents kubota look awefully close to a 4x140 pattern, and I know they make all sorts of crazy tire sizes for tractors. These would also be REALLY heavy-duty rims.

BUMP Still looking for source for rebuild kits.

Underdrive pulleys would be really simple and easy if somebody could either make them or you could find them from another car that woud work. All you really have to do is make the crank pulley smaller to lower the drive ratio to the water pump, alt, p/s,....

In order to include as many people and cars as possible, maybe there should just be group shots, and then two or three featured pics of really radical soobs.

I would recommend linking to the subaru performance page that is featured on ultimatesubaru.org. It's got some really good, simple, easy stuff on it. Here's the link: http://ultimatesubaru.org/80s/ea-performance-page/subaru-ea-performance.html

I know this was discussed quite some time ago, but I never really heard a definitive answer. All of the hi-po V8 guys balance and blueprint their engines. Since I'm going to have everything apart anyway, is it worth the time to balance everthing by weighing all of the pistons and rods and shaving bits off until they all weigh exactly the same? I know this would only result in a 1/4 horsepower increase at best, but what about longevity? Theoretically, that would put less stress on everthing, which should make the engine last longer. Also, on the issue of camshafts. Would they really help that much with the lame single-port heads? And is it possible to get cams that will give a slight increase in power without any detrimental effects to the fuel economy? And finally, should I replace the oil pump or just re-seal it? The oil pressure was pretty good the last time that engine ran, and there was no lifter noise (I will clean the lifters just for good measure though).

I've heard that the EJ22T has oil jets shooting at the bottom of the pistons. Has anybody seen these in person? Maybe some insight could be had from looking at those.

I would be more concerned about depth. The aftermarket sony speakers I have in my front doors push the panels out a bit.

Definitely get some OLD subarus. 360s, early 1970s, etc. Even if they are dealship brochure pics and not personal vehicles.

My car is not a turbo, but I have a "turbo" muffler on it that works really well. It is the Thrush "mini-turbo" that I ordered from Summit Racing for less than $20. It fits in the stock location, can clamp right on to the stock pipe once the original muffler is removed, sounds mean but not obnoxios or ricy, and gives more ground clearance than the original.

Now that I have determined that I have bad rings in my #1 cylinder, I am going to do a complete rebuild of my old engine and hopefully modify it a little. Some questions arise. Where should I get all of the parts for the rebuild? Should I just go down to Carquest or Schucks, or is there some company that specializes in this sort of thing? Are complete kits available that include everything, even all the seals? Now for the mod questions. What can be done to the ea82 while its apart for more power, WHILE KEEPING THE RELIABILITY. Things that immediately come to mind are port work on the intake and exhaust, cams, and shaving the block a bit for higher compression. I know some people on the board (Qman?) have shaved their block for higher compression, and I've heard discussion about port work. I don't know much about cams though, and they are probably kind of expensive. I have heard that XT cams are bigger. What about SPFI pistons and not messing with the block? Any input would be great, and I'm open to all sorts of suggestions. I just don't want to spend a lot of money beyond the parts needed for the rebuild itself and maybe some machine work. Thanks in advance.

The answer: Yes, it's fubar-ed internally. A compression test today indicated that the rings on the #1 piston are bad. All the others consistently read 150, whereas that one was 75 dry and 145 with oil in the cylinder. I am not in despair, however. Next semester I am taking an engines lab at UAA, so I will bring in my old 140k engine, totally rebuild it and maybe hop it up a bit, then swap it in. My current motor will last that long, since the only thing it won't do is go fast. If you have any suggestions on where to buy a rebuild kit from or what modifications can be done during the rebuild process, please see my other post.

viceversa: No, mine doesn't have an O2 sensor, and the rich condition existed with the previous Hitachi carb (which was just worn out), not the weber. taprackready: It's my understanding that the ported vacuum source the disty has will actually pull more vacuum at higher rpms, unlike manifold vacuum, which drops off. I tried sucking on the line going to the disty with the engine idling, and the rpm increased a little, but not nearly as much as if I were to just turn the disty and advance the timing a few degrees. Could the disty bushings be worn out, causing it to move around at certain speeds, giving innacurate timing?

I should have mentioned this in the first post. I sort of hinted at it with the shifting-down thing, but didn't actually say it. It would appear that it is RPM-related. In gears 1-3, it really doesn't take a whole lot of power to turn over 4000 revs, but in higher gears with greater load, it takes more power, and for some reason, the engine just isn't making power above that speed, which must be around 3500 rpm to do 75 in 5th gear. That's why I would think it is something like the vacuum advance, which is supposed to increase as more air is sucked into the engine. I'm just not sure how to test this, or if other things could cause this problem. Could the coil be weak, causing the spark to get blown out in this situation?

HOW CAN I GET ONE??????!

I think that somebody made some USMB stickers some time ago. I know that I would buy at least two or three if they were to come out again, and there must be others who would want some.

yes

I have posted about this in the past, but still have not found the answer. The problem: My car absolutely refuses to go over about 75 (actually around 80 because my tires are slightly oversized). I can get up to 75 without even opening the secondary on the weber, but if I mash it to the floor, it doesn't go any faster. I don't think it's a dragging U-joint or anything because shifting down to 4th doesn't seem to help. Also, the fuel economy has not been great recently. This problem basically appeared out of nowhere. All of a sudden my car just wouldn't go as fast and the fuel economy dropped off. What I have tried: -weber carb: gets up to 75 much faster but still won't go above it -cap, rotor and plugs, inspected disty: no ascertainable difference -set timing to 14 degrees BTDC: no ascertainable difference -hollowed out cat thinking it was fried from previous rich running condition: again, it gets up to 75 a bit faster, but still won't go above it -re tensioned timing belts: runs smoother, better drivability in general, still won't go above 75 What I think could be the problem: -Do vacuum advance modules go bad? Maybe mine has a leak in the diaphragm and is no longer giving full advance. I have a disty from an automatic-tranny engine that I could steal the module from if it's the same. -Something is seriously fubar-ed internally Is it possible that the extended periods of high-speed driving I had this summer messed somthing up? But this problem did not appear immediately. It showed up after about 1000 miles more, which was driven at normal speeds. However, if this is the case, I do have my old engine still around which could be resealed and put back in if the current one is messed up beyond help. Any suggestions would be great. I am starting to get angry with my car.

You would probably be much better off using it as an oil cooler rather than another radiator. Just get one of those adapters that goes between the oil pump and the filter and plumb it in. I think this would actually help your engine last longer by keeping the oil more thermally stable.