Snowman

Very nice. If I didn't have a rack already, I would seriously consider getting one of those.

WOW! I just ordered the complete weber conversion kit from Redline that Tom pointed me to, and the extra shipping charge to Alaska is $37!!!! I sure hope this is worth it.

Posted elevation is 1,000 meters (it's in Canada). The mountain in the background is 6,800 feet and makes a killer sledding hill. (Oh, and Monk, if you're getting at what I think you're getting at, I'm working on it;) )

Thanks a bunch guys! I'm gonna order it tomorrow. I can't wait! No more Hicrappy!

Here goes my first try at posting a pic. I'm on the right, and my friend Coral is on the left. She's one of VERY few girls I've met who are interested in subarus at all.

I've never done this myself, but apparently you can reach the release mechanism with a screwdriver or some other prodding device by reaching up in front of the radiator from under the bumper. One of my soobs has a string attached to this as a temporary fix.

I've finally decided that I'm going to weberize Roxanne with a brand new one from Redline. The problem is, they only sell an adapter for the EA81 engine. Can I just modify this adapter to fit the wider-spaced studs on my EA82, or should I look for the right adapter? If I have to get a different adapter, where should I get it from? Also, is there anything besides the carb itself that you have to order? Jets? Linkage? Fuel pressure regulator?

On the clutch fan thing, I am still undecided on whether it is a good thing to remove. I've run mine with it and without. Without the fan, it does seem to have better response. However, at least on mine which has a single-row rad, I prefer to have the much more stable temperature that the fan affords without having to turn on the electric fan. Maybe I'm just paranoid about things like engine temperature, but I think it actually is better for performance to keep the engine at its optimum temp.

Well, I swapped out the carbs while putting a new accelerator pump and top gasket in the one I installed. The performance and fuel economy are greatly improved. The top-end performance still sucks, but I attribute that to my Unifilter and custom intake being off right now. I haven't had a chance to do another I.M. yet. The carb I put on is a JDM unit, and they are WAY different. Most importantly is that it just doesn't have two of the vacuum/vent line connections. This could be a problem when I do the I.M., but I'll just connect the two hoses together and hide them under the air cleaner so it looks like they go somewhere. Also, the secondary vacuum diaphragm doesn't bolt on correctly. I had to use a file and bailing wire to hook it up in the right position. Any ideas on other stuff that could cause top-end lack of power, other than having a Hitachi carb?

I give a warranty on just about everything, but it's usually just a, "I think this might go wrong sometime, and if it does I'll work on it for free if you buy the parts." I never guarantee parts that normally wear out like clutches, brakes, or CVs, and I make it clear that it doesn't cover anything that appears to be caused by abusive driving or negligence.

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As long as you don't use 4wd, it should be fine for short trips and such. I can't see where it would matter if the bigger ones were on the front or back.

Interesting. I've never had mine sputter while going through water, but then I have never hit anything REALLY deep. However, my brother told me about taking our parents' 86 wagon through water coming up over the hood. The only problem that created was making the belts squeal for a while. Another good waterproofing/redundancy thing is using plastic zip-ties to clamp the plug wire boots onto the disty. I just like to put zip-ties on everything, though.

This is sort of an extension of the emissions problems that I posted about a while ago. I have three things going on with my car right now, and I am planning on swapping the carb with a newer one to try to solve it, but I would like to hear of any other possible culprits. The issues are, in order of appearance: 1.)My fuel economy has been not great for a year, and has recently gotten really sucky (200 miles per tank, albeit all city driving, but still...) 2.)Since August, the performance at high speed has been extremely disheartening. She refuses to go past 76mph under any normal conditions (which is probably about 80 considering the tire size that I'm running right now), and near full-throttle must be used to maintain 65-70. Just a few months ago, she would cruise at 75-80 with between half and two-thirds throttle. 3.) I have run several I.M. tests on the machine that we have at the university, and I cannot get the CO level at 2000 rpm to get below 3%, and the limit is 1%. At idle, the level is around .3%, and the HC levels are quite reasonable. This is baffling me. Any ideas would be great. The performance is the thing that really weirds me out because this is the same kind of performance that I was getting when I first got the car before doing any modifications.

Bard, Am I understanding that you are referring to the door unlocking itself when you close it? As far as I know, the front doors do that but not the rears, and you can keep the door locked when closing it by holding the outside handle open. At least that's how all four of mine are.

Did you check the timing on both cams after setting the tension, or before?

Hocrest is correct in saying that the driver's lock controls the others.

Actually, 85 and 86 GLs had the all-black bumpers. However, the loyale bumper is just an all-black version of the 87 and up GL bumper, whereas the early GL bumper was slightly different (turn signals not recessed).

Also, I believe that loyales only came with fuel injection, whereas during different years, the GL came with a hitachi carb, single point fuel injection, multi-point fuel injection, and multi-point fuel injection with turbo. Oh yeah, and the adjustable rear struts that came on some years of the GL were never offered on the loyale. I think that's it, but I'm sure that there are a few other things.

The Banks-Modified Cummins you speak of is nothing short of awesome. The kit they sell to the public can get 950 ft lbs of torque, OUT OF A 5.9!!! That's just running an improved turbo, better flowing intake and exhaust, intercooler, I beleive larger injectors, and some modifications to the computer. The best thing about modifying diesels is that unless you do it badly, they retain their reliability, unlike a gas engine. Also, when you don't have your foot to the floor, the fuel economy is usually IMPROVED by those modifications.

Austin's post about the twin cars in the offtopic forum got me thinking. What is the most common Subaru? Most popular color? Drivetrain? I know that at least in Alaska, there is a ridiculous amount of red ea82 wagons still around, mostly 4wd GL non-turbo. (I've got three of them.)

I totally agree that for offroad you can't beat a diesel. So what if it won't rev way high, you can lug it and still make power. That's why I almost bought a diesel 'Yota Land Cruiser last year. Even though having a massive military is questionable, you have to give them credit for the technology that they create. Examples being the already mentioned Hemmt, the Deuce-and-a-Half offroad truck, the Dodge Power Wagon, and the PT Boat, which all pretty much rule.

That's certainly different from the ea82 hitachi that just happens to be sitting on my desk next to the computer.

Archemitis: There are several diesel-powered swamp buggies that have successfully competed for years. That's essentially a dragster, except in mud. Nearly all the fishing boats in Haines run only one engine.

Go for it! That is essentially the same setup that I am running, except for one thing. Mine is not a true ram-air because the intake from under the bumper merely directs cold air onto my filter. The reason I did this, and something you should consider, is that placing the actual intake under the bumper could result in taking in mass amounts of water if you ever go through a deep water crossing.