Snowman

Where's da video?

Okay, now I know what my dream car is:grin: .

Pardon my ignorance, but.... Odviously the 22B is a radical car, but what makes it so cool and so expensive? What changes from the base impreza WRX are made to make it a 22B?

Hey there, welcome to the board! I'm really glad that people have taken interist in this, and I wish that I had more time to pursue it with right now. It looks like stuff will start coming together around Christmas time when I'm on break and can start working on it. Also, I talked to Matt (northguy) today and we were thinking that maybe a meet-up in mid January would be good. I'm pretty much booked up for the rest of the semester for anything bigger than meeting for dinner, which I'm open to if I'd get a chance to meet some of the new members here. We should definitely try for a snow run or something later on though if anybody knows some fun logging roads of anything like that.

BRILLIANCE!!! SHEER BRILLIANCE!!!!

Hmmm.... good points there NorthWet. The main issue that I had thought might come up with the centrifugal filter is that is might take longer to get oil to the engine at startup. Maybe adding an oil cooler and a small bypass setup would be the best option. Anybody else?

Hehe, thanks. I can't take credit for the quote though, as I saw it somewhere else (could have even been on this board since I spend way too much time here:rolleyes: .)

Looks like you guys were having way too much fun!

You got a Weber carb? http://www.carburetion.com/airintake.asp http://www.carburetion.com/airintake.asp (I welded up an adapter similar to this one) If you've got a Hitachi, maybe you can get some ideas from the intake that I used to have:

Okay, here's something I've been thinking about recently. The stock oil filter on subarus does a pretty good job at keeping junk out of the engine, but there is always room for improvement. Pondering this, I immediately thought about the filtration systems used on HD diesel engines, which need them to filter out all the carbon and deposits in the oil. A couple of alternatives exist. The first is adding a full-flow centrifigul "spinner" type filter to the oiling system, probably in-line to an oil cooler setup of some sort. These filters work with a little assembly inside that has oil jets that make it spin. Centrifugal force causes particulates to be flung outward into the removable paper cartridge. They are highly effective in removing any combustion byproducts or dirt from the oil. The other type of filtration system that I have considered is the addition of a small bypass filter. This would take oil from one of the unused ports in the oil pump through a small restrictor that would allow a very small percentage of the oil to pass into this system, where it goes through a VERY fine filter and back into the oil pan. Even though very little of the total oil volume passes through it at any one moment, the entirety of the oil has passes through several times in the course of a relatively short drive, removing the vast majority of contamination. This way, the primary full-flow filter takes out the big stuff without much restriction in the oil system, and this one takes care of the really tiny particles that can still cause a world of hurt for an engine. With either of these systems in place, especially in conjunction with an oil cooler, I think it would be entirely reasonable that engine life could be increased, and drain intervals could safely be extended (something that I'm still nervous about but would be willing to try with improved filtration). Your thoughts please.

ER27 is the engine used in the XT6. It's basically an ea82-and-a-half.

No dude, sorry if that came off wrong:-\ . I dunno what others think, but coming from a soob nut like myself, I think it's quirky and neat. Totally cool.

Hey, thanks Ed. I'll ask about that. I think I saw the 0w-30 stuff in a couple of places, now that I think about it, so those less-common grades may be available if I special order.

Wow! I haven't seen pics of your car for a while, and it definitely looks bad*****! (Probably the only hot-rodded import I've ever seen that has a roof rack on it:lol: .)

A relay is a device that's sort of like a remote control. It's a little electric "box" with four terminals. One connects to battery positive, one goes to the load (lights in this case), one goes to the dash switch, and one goes to chassis ground. Rather than running the power for the lights all the way back to the switch on your dash and then to the lights, you can connect power straight to the lights with a relay in there to control the circuit. The relay is controlled by a small current turned on or off by a switch on the dash. If the lights cost $20, it likely just has a toggle switch and no relay.

Ummm.... off the top of my head, the rear is slightly less than a quart. The transmission/front diff takes around four. (I assume yours has a manual tranny.)

Wow, Skip. I'd always wanted to make use of the factory turn signal location for some light mounting but didn't know what to do with the signals. Leave it to you to come up with a solution, eh? I'm totally doing that on the RX!

I would still wonder about detonation. I've had 4 engine configurations in my car, and they've all flirted with detonation to some degree. 1. Bone stock carbed ea82 with hitachi: running 87 would detonate under heavy load/high temperature conditions. 91 octane, the highest available at the pump here would give better fuel economy and performance. Ignition timing adjustment made a little difference, but not a terrible lot. 2. Same engine with Weber carb:Similar results. Advanced the timing a little more in accordance with directions from Weber (ran better and made more power). Seemed to prefer 91 to a greater degree. 3. Stock engine with Delta cams and Weber carb: Pretty much had to run at least 89 to prevent detonation under relatively light loads. With these mods, even more timing was needed to make it run well, so it started to become a battle. 4. SPFI shortblock, Delta cams, Weber carb: Higher compression made detonation an issue for this engine. Timing had to be retarded compared to the previous configuration to keep detonation under control even with light loads running somewhere between 89 and 91 octane. Now, I know for a fact that something just ain't right with my Weber. That could be a major factor in this, but since even with a completely stock setup including carb I saw some detonation, I would rule that out as the cause. I also tend to hear a lot of detonation-type noises coming from other carbed subarus during similar situations. Although the turbo engines tend to have more of a problem for odvious reasons, it's still there in the carbed motors.

Hey Matt, you wanna go on a roadtrip down there?

The front bumper lights came from Wal-Mart for $30 a pair. They're a yellow color and work pretty well. On top are four from Northern Tool and Equipment that ran me $8 each. They're pretty good for the price. I spent more on wire, relays and switches than on the lights themselves. To power the roof lights, I cut a slit in the window gasket on the front right side door, ran the wires through, and sealed it with clear silicone. It looks kinda ghetto up close and leaks a little, but I would get real nervous about drilling through the roof or anything like that. To make the roof rack easily removable, I added a four-pin plug in the wires so I can just disconnect the lights and unclamp the rack mounts if I want to remove the rack.

I'll let the HP guys speak as to what's best for intake setups, but as far as filters, I'm stuck on Unifilter foam pods. I imported mine from Australia to get the right size in the kind that I wanted, and it's been a great filter. They remove particles down to 1 or 2 microns where K&N filters down to 30. When I wash it every 6 months or so, a TON of crap comes out. Flow is more or less identical. They make all kinds of different size filters with a wide variety of mounting options. You can also get panel filters for most of the EJ cars, which may work in our SPFI/MPFI air boxes (are they the same size? they look pretty close). One thing to watch out for: I recently learned that any sort of oiled filter, be it a K&N style or a foam filter, can cause problems with the MAF sensor on some cars as a little oil inevitably gets in there. Anybody have this happen on a subaru? Maybe it's just when the filter is mounted really close to the MAF?

Definitely intriguing. I think the biggest problem is going to be detonation. With 11:1 compression, you'd definitely be pushing it, and with my delta cams in it wants a lot more timing to have a decent idle and make any power, which is also going to push it closer to the detonation threshold. I know there's a way to engineer around any problem, it just might get frightfully expensive. The aircooled VW guys have done it, but they've actually got some aftermarket support. Their engines also seem a bit more prone to blowing up:drunk: .

I'm guessing it's still a cost issue for which engine to use. (I guess an SVX engine wouldn't be too bad, but fitment would likely be an issue.) You can get a wrecked EJ22 car for a pittance, with everything needed to make the engine run. I find it hard to believe that you could score any sort of JDM Sti or twin-turbo engine with everything it needs to run for a price in the same ballpark. Please correct me if I'm wrong. No offense to anybody here 'cause I'm the same way, but in general, people on this board don't have a big wad of cash to throw around, and when something can be done cheaper, they'll do it, even if it means sacrificing performance. Also, to a lot of the old-gen guys, an EJ22 is a pretty healthy power increase from what we're used to. Just my two cents.

Okay, you've got me convinced. I definitely think we should use your name for it too.

Hey Rallyruss, do you recall what ARP wanted for custom studs? I remember there was a rallied-out RX at WCSS that had custom studs made, but I didn't get the price for them. I may explore the possibility of buying a large volume of head studs if others would be interested in some and if it would help on pricing.