Snowman

That's gonna be sick! Do you think it would spin all 4?

http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=25737

Ah yes, I guess I could have included some specifics. No pics yet as my digital isn't working right now.:-\ If all else fails, I'll take some pictures and scan them on my parents' computer. I guess it could be thought of as a very drawn-out engine swap, as I used the short block out of the donor car when I did the rebuild this spring. This time, I swapped the intake setup, computer and wiring harness, ignition and fuel pump. Basically all that remains from the 1986 engine at this point is the heads and valvetrain (cams reground by Delta last year). If I was thinking, I would have done the whole conversion when I did the rebuild, but at that point I was still trying to hold on to the Weber that I had spent so much money on. Soooo nice to have a good-running car again.

I haven't used a NAPA pump, but what exactly is WAAAY cheaper? I get a pretty massive automotive student discount with NAPA, and their pump was still at least $30 more than the subaru factory part from 1stsubaruparts.com. If I remember correctly, the subaru pump with sending unit was under $130.

I can't get this smile off my face! I just got back from the first test run of the new and improved Roxanne, now with SPFI from a 1989, and I am impressed. Still need to set the timing as soon as my buddy comes by with the light, but it still runs worlds better than with the Weber on there. This is probably tied with the lift for best modification at this point. Amazingly, the conversion was not that difficult. My Thanksgiving "thankful for...." was definitely my FSM's though. Without the manuals for both my car and the donor, as well as Haynes, Chiltons, and some schematics printed off of Mitchell, this project would have been suicide. I think that I might do a write-up over Christmas break of the conversion, including scanning all of the relevant schematics and diagrams, as it really is a worthwhile modification that isn't that hard if you've done your homework. Well, that's all for now. I think I'm gonna take Roxanne up to the pass tomorrow so we can go sledding and I'll see how she does then. Hopefully okay, as I'm leaving to go back to Anchorage (750 miles) on Sunday. Weeeeeeeee!

I'm still on my first, even though I've owned several.

I find that it works to just stand on a 1/2" ratchet. Never had any trouble with that method. (Disclaimer: But don't blame me if this screws something up)

Lookin' good!

Don't make me come over there!

Ah, the crap that people will buy. I bet I could make a killing with something. Hmmmm........ I got it, paint with aluminum flakes in it that helps radiators and engine blocks dissipate heat faster!!!!

Okay, that makes sense. I'll probably build something along those lines sometime.

Archemitis, no offense taken. But why exactly will that not be functional? It goes to one of the strut mount bolts on each side, so wouldn't it still prevent chassis flex? Oh yeah, the Optima battery is schweeeeeeeet!

Cool. That's good to know.

http://www.subspeed.com/LoyStrutBar.htm or:

Ask Rallyruss

No escape. My friends' gets 13 mpg! Nothing is wrong with it either.

I think you'll be happy with the Hitachi carb. Everybody rags on them, but all the problems are created by the fact that they are dealing with a 20 year old carb that likely hasn't been rebuilt. The stock Hitachi is the best compromise between power, fuel economy, and smooth running. When I still had mine on my wagon, I once went on a 500 mile round trip doing 85-90 all the way except on the long pulls over the mountain pass we were in, and got 18 miles per gallon.

Maniacal laughing...... It's too bad you didn't get a picture of the look on the kid's face! I bet it was priceless.

I would take a look at the BFG All-Terrains. They're a darn good all-around tire. I swap out for snow tires in the winter, but I know lots of people that run those year round with pretty good luck. One guy has a set on his snowplow truck.

I would go with an oil change first. 3 quarts of good 10w40 and 1 quart of MMO. If that doesn't fix it, I'd tear the cam towers off and disassemble the HVLA's. They are likely real gummy or just plain bad. Definitely try thicker oil, as it seems that the ticking is coming back after making longer-duration and hence higher temperature runs, which thins out the oil.

I'll check in my FSM tonight to see if it makes any mention of a flashing CEL.

I know of a loyale with a 3" lift that had 31" tires on it. He had to cut fenders quite a bit, but it worked. My 27's required a bit of front fender bashing with the 3" lift installed.

I would just go with the A/C compressor conversion. That's what I'm gonna do.

I might get flamed for this, but I would advise against going with the weber swap right away. It may be worth your time to find out what's wrong with the system that's on there, as a properly running SPFI setup will run very well all the time and should get better fuel economy than you describe. The weber will likely make a bit more power, but to do so, you'll lose some fuel economy as well as drivability compared to the SPFI, and you'll have to constantly tune it to keep the car running right. Also, depending on the climate in your area, the Weber will likely run like CRAP until the engine reaches operating temperature. Cold starting ability is also sacrificed if you don't use a block heater in winter. Others have had pretty good luck with their weber carbs. Mine has been a real SOB and I'm converting to SPFI from that. Just my two cents.

Unless it's a CA model, the Y-pipe was probably taken from a later model car. Some carbed subes had an ECM that operated some duty solenoids in the carb, but I have yet to see or hear of a car like yours that has one.