Setright

Your air-filter is in the box right behind the throttle body, right? Then it's a MAP system....Pressure, temp and the ECU interpolates....and has a word with the O2 sensor in the exhaust to see if it guessed right.

That is the method stated in the Factory Service Manual.

Or the factory manual method: Igniton - OFF Connect the black and green connectors under the steering column. Both are single wire, normal-state is disconnected. Igntion - ON Press the throttle to the floor. Lift it back to approx. half-way, hold it there for 2 seconds. Release throttle fully. Ignition - START! Let the engine run for a few seconds, the CEL will be off if there are no present faults. Start driving....sooner or later, within minutes, the CEL will flash at a steady rate, indicating the ECU is reset. Igntion -OFF Disconnect both green and black wires. DONE!

Don't be too sure. Some Forester wheels have a slightly small offset 48 vs. 55 mm. True, these weren't on the early models, they came later in a bid fill the wheel arches/wells and make the car look a little more butch.

When we take delivery of brand new cars at the dealership I work part-time for, there's a fuse or two to install in the engine room before the car will run. These are left out by the factory to avoid batteries draining on the ship from Japan. Sounds like you should wire in a switch to kill the auxlillary power during parking.

My vote is Castrol. I'll ask my dealer...

There are/were Subaru genuine fogs available. Check the relay box that lives in the engine room.

For sure you want to try these new fangled wipers. They do work! Both Valeo and Bosch are making them for retro-fit to "old style" wiper arm mounts.

Very glad you're okay. Always a shame to lose a nice car. Manarius, you're getting far too cocky.

I've got to say, I really agree with Nipper. If people can't learn to check a car's vital signs, they shouldn't be driving it.

NO! NO! NO! I don't want some alarm going off because I have turned my lights on! The best system I have witnessed was in my parents old - 1979 - Toyota Crown. Start engine, lights on. Drive around. Park, turn off engine - lights still on. Open either front door - lights automatically switch OFF. To activate the parking lights, you had to turn the light switch back to the OFF positon and then forward one click to parking lights. EXCELLENT! No flat batteries, no unintended parking lights on. Bring this system back and all people should be happy!

Peter, the large amount of overflow is caused by a big bubble somewhere expanding quickly and backing fluid out. It's best let it flow over and wait til the fans come on because that way you can be sure the thermostat has openede fully and the circulation will release the air traps. Still, seems like a quick burp worked, so you're ok

As far as my calculations go, the parking lights can be left on for about 24 hours and still leave just enough juice in the battery to start the car. Automatic transmission cars will have more time, since they have bigger capacity batteries. I like that switch, and it's location. Try accidentally knocking the indicator stalk on the way out of an Audi/VW see what happens.

Park car with nose up a slight incline. Let engine cool for at least four hours. Remove radiator cap. Start engine and let it run until the radiator fan starts running. Top of level in rad filler neck. Install cap - preferably a brand new genuine part. Be aware that some coolant will spill over, so a cloth wrapped around the filler neck is a good thing. Also, as the engine heats up and the thermostat begins to open, you should have bubbles leaving via the filler neck. Drive for a few days, report back here

Is RE910 meant for winter use at all ?

Seriously, try running "Mobil Delvac 1 5W-40", it has dampened my frosty moring piston slap considerably.

Yep, when you keep it in a good state the EJ22 can get very parsimonious when you just cruise. (Euro octane ratings can't translate directly, I run 95 which is the middle quality over here. We basically have 92, 95, 98)

I bought a "kit" that was comprised of two metal brackers that screw in into the blower hosing just aft the blower itself. And a metal lid with a rubber gasket to hold the filter in place. The brackets attach with self tapping screws and have fine threaded holes to secure the metal lid. Had to cut out the plastic blanking plate.

Even if it becomes a struggle, hold out for the Synpower! You'll be glad you did

Of course the words "spark plugs" are banned from that discussion

So, amidst the cheering...was the only person thinking that center diff is toast in the morning? Slides are ok, but all that spinning in one place, imagine the speed difference between front and rear?? The front side-to-side diff is busy allowing the wheels to rotate in opposite directions...

Snowman, there ain't no room for side access

I'm gonna have to be a real drag here: You're car is too young to be subjected to discount-price service. Put the cost of an authorised service in perspective to the price of your car. Yes, an authorised dealer visit is not certain to get you 100% perfect work done, but the chances are much better, and you won't void your warranty by accidently tripping over some technicality. IF you do chose "Oil Changes R Us", PLEASE purchase a genuine oil filter from the dealer and have them use that.

Valvoline Synpower in my manual gearbox. BEst of of many expensive and cheap oils I've tried. Stops the 2nd to 3rd grind common in Sube 'boxes.

You'll be fine. Just be prepared to replace the cam and crank shaft seals, and maybe the rocker cover gaskets.