Setright

I have been using 95Nm and not lost any wheels yet. The beauty of using a torque wrench is that the lugs aren't hard to get off and you don't stress the studs. 95Nm is around 70ft/lbs

Okay, early morning here, but a quick review: Find a friend to help you. Locate the clutch fluid reservoir - looks like a small brake reservoir. Suck out as much as possible with a syringe, refill will fresh DOT4 brake fluid. Fill to the FULL mark. Wrap a cloth around the reservoir and over the fender. You DO NOT want to spill brake fluid on your paint. Find the clutch slave cylinder - top the gearbox acting on the fork. Somewhere close by, there'll be a bleed screw, 8mm or 10mm hex. Looks like a grease nipple. Attach a clear hose over the end and run that into a small bottle. Get your friend to sit in the car. Loosen the bleeder and have friend push and hold the clutch pedal down. Fluid should escape through the hose into the bottle. Close the bleeder - not very tight - and tell friend to release the pedal. Open bleeder, tell friend to push and hold clutch pedal down....repeat twice. Check the fluid level in the reservoir, top it off as needed. You're done when the fluid leaving the bleeder is the same colour and cleanliness of the fresh fluid you poured in at the other end. Tighten the bleeder. Don't force it, just use the torque in your wrist, not your whole arm. Hope that covers it

Like the others here, I find it hard to believe that your calipers are all sticking. Even if more than one is sticking, it shouldn't be hard to free it up, no need to replace them. As for pads/rotors at 36k miles? Doesn't sound unreasonable to me, on the fronts. Rears should be in find shape.

Time to "purge" the hydraulic system. Hot weather and slow moving traffic will heat the fluid and older fluid will boil and cause vapour locking. It's the same as with brakes, the fluid absorbs moisture from the air over time and finally gives up. I'll be a change of fluid will do the trick

The OBS will be an EJ22, right? That's reason enough to chose that car. But either way, you've cunningly narrowed it down to two Subes

It might be worth trying a thicker oil, like Mobil Delvac 1 5W-40, but only IF you can't get the dealer to repair the problem. Come to think of it, maybe your PCV valve is stuck open??

Stainless steel in most forms has aprrox. 18% Chrome and 8 Nickel in the mix with iron and carbon (1-2%). Those same metals that stop the rust also weaken the material. It also makes the pipes "ring" and hence cause more noise. Mild steel is the exhaust material of choice for those who want their systems to last long and refrain from cracking. Nevermind the rust. Paint it, powder coat it, whatever if it must last more than ten years. The point made by rguyver is very important too, if the exhaust is suspended correctly it will crack again.

1 liter per 3000km is your average? Well, that's not good and can get expensive in the long run. What oil are you using? Some engine designs use oil - especially those with oil spray cooling the piston crowns from below - and some don't. See as how the EJ25 in you car is NOT known for burning oil, I'd say something is very wrong somewhere. No more Mr. Nice Guy, make the dealer solve the problem. Preferably a brand new engine. They can return the oil-burner and claim the cost back from Subaru. (The Germans state 1 liter per 1000km is normal!! However, they specify 0W-30 oils and take into account 120mph travel on motorways)

It's also needed during a reset

BUT, to answer your question: The transmission mount. The one that mounts from below the car. The engine/tranny in my old 1990 Legacy was bouncing about enough make a loud thump noise. Replaced trans mount, problem solved.

Hmm, well not really, but you could try talking to TSL-Motorsport, Prodrive, or maybe Scoobyworld. Wiper motor may be tricky, though.

If safety and grip really matter, you need to have two sets of tyres. One for summer and one for winter. "All-season" is a useless compromise. In my opinion

I'd like to answer anyway: It's a problem with the control of the throttle butterfly. My Forester did this immediately after a machine car wash - with a rather forceful jet spray from beneath. Dealer and I decided that some water must've got into the cable connector..or something. I made the mistake of realeasing ALL 230 horses right after the was, I bet some water entered the engine room and was sloshed about by my driving style :-)

If the noise goes away when you press the clutch pedal DOWN then it's the gearbox bearings. 99% certain. Throwout bearings can sometimes rattle about and become more quiet as you press the pedal, but the noise they make rarely goes away completely since it will still be rotating when the pedal is all the way down.

Okay, this is a not the most gifted of questions: WHich way does the pump rotate? Does it suck from the engine block or the radiator?

I tend to eat a set of front pads and discs within 20 k miles - but I do like to use my car on tracks every now and then...

AHA! So, perhaps my well looked after radiator isn't clogged, but the AC condenser is externally clogged on the hidden side....will find out later today

And just to be accurate: The coolant flow into the top of the radiator. When the thermostat opens the water pump draws in coolant through the lower hose and mixes this with the warmer stuff coming back from the engine block.

Dang! My Impreza is doing this too, the temp rises VERY slowy and only by a needle width or two. That does mean it's still well within the "normal" range, but since I've never seen it do this until now - after almost three years happy ownership - it does worry me. I have a date with a water hose, a good stiff paint brush and tools to remove the grille and bumper. Gonna try cleaning the AC condenser to see if it can help keep the engine cool. By the way: I pure water flush and refill my cooling system once a year. So I can't imagine my rad being clogged. I did replace the thermostat this spring though. Hoses are all new, too. Car is coming up on 100k miles.

NO! Don't do it. The ignition timing may be advanced so far as to damage your pistons/rods/bearings.

Problems? With a Subaru? Huh???

Plug wires are a cinch. Plugs themselves a little harder - and they require an experienced hand.

Engine ECU was located there in some models. Could be that?

Over here we get the 5AT in Legacies only. Imps and Woodmen have to make do with 4AT....WHY???