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Everything posted by Setright
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Well, the cam sensor is used to double check the engine position. The car will start and run without it working, but if the cam sensor returns a "no movement" signal even though the crank sensor has registered movement, then the ECU will complain. In short: The crankshaft sensor has higher priority.
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Swede, the ECU will not pulse the injectors or fire the plugs until it has seen a signal from the crankshaft sensor. So, yes if that's faulty the car will not start. Good to keep in mind if you like dry-cranking the engine after an oil change. Unplug the crank sensor and crank the engine for ten seconds or so. Twice. Of course, I prefer to just fill the oil filter before screwing it on. Pardon me for taking off at a tangent :-)
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Have a listen to this: http://www.geocities.com/vik2r/Sube/mp3/warmstart.mp3 It's my previous car, a 1990 Legacy 2.2 with the same engine as the 95. It's equipped with hydraulic valve lifters, just like the one you are talking about. I know that recording doesn't have the engine idling for too long, but you can hear a slighty rattle in there somewhere. At the time of the recording the engine had 120k miles. Car is still running with 200k miles on the clock :-)
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Piston slap is with most Subes on a cold start-up. Not terminal, but slightly annoying 'cause it sounds like a Diesel! I would suggest a 10W-40 oil as the best cure. Shell "Helix Plus", for example. M1 is a good oil, and the 5W-50 oil will be good to use, but it's relatively thin at low temps and will slap more than Helix.
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blinker HELP!
Setright replied to Zefy's topic in 1990 to Present Legacy, Impreza, Outback, Forester, Baja, WRX&WrxSTI, SVX
You might want to try cleaning up the contacts in the rear light clusters. Sounds like a classic grounding problem. Your blinker could be pulling ground through the red lamps at the rear. Simple test: Disconnect the left rear cluster, try blinking left. If the blinker flashes (twice the normal rate) then it's the contacts in the cluster.