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Setright

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Everything posted by Setright

  1. Well, the cam sensor is used to double check the engine position. The car will start and run without it working, but if the cam sensor returns a "no movement" signal even though the crank sensor has registered movement, then the ECU will complain. In short: The crankshaft sensor has higher priority.
  2. Swede, the ECU will not pulse the injectors or fire the plugs until it has seen a signal from the crankshaft sensor. So, yes if that's faulty the car will not start. Good to keep in mind if you like dry-cranking the engine after an oil change. Unplug the crank sensor and crank the engine for ten seconds or so. Twice. Of course, I prefer to just fill the oil filter before screwing it on. Pardon me for taking off at a tangent :-)
  3. Torxx, Sid speaks of "sprockets" - plural - on each side, logic commands that it's DOHC Sid, I would suggest find the Subaru repair manual for that engine. Some of the notches may be "old" and not meant to be followed.
  4. Correct. One fan is controlled by the coolant sensor, the other only runs in connection with the A/C - and that will come on with the windscreen defrost. The low idle is the normal one. The A/C compressor asks for the increase in idle speed.
  5. Try to search the forum, this came up a few months ago. The filter has been moved.
  6. If it's a slight metallic rasp that eases off as the engine heats, it's ok. Sounds a bit like a Diesel engine. The knock sensor code is probably just co-incidence. Check the one you have now, if the connector on the wire is gray, it's the old type and needs replacing anyway.
  7. Have a listen to this: http://www.geocities.com/vik2r/Sube/mp3/warmstart.mp3 It's my previous car, a 1990 Legacy 2.2 with the same engine as the 95. It's equipped with hydraulic valve lifters, just like the one you are talking about. I know that recording doesn't have the engine idling for too long, but you can hear a slighty rattle in there somewhere. At the time of the recording the engine had 120k miles. Car is still running with 200k miles on the clock :-)
  8. Piston slap is with most Subes on a cold start-up. Not terminal, but slightly annoying 'cause it sounds like a Diesel! I would suggest a 10W-40 oil as the best cure. Shell "Helix Plus", for example. M1 is a good oil, and the 5W-50 oil will be good to use, but it's relatively thin at low temps and will slap more than Helix.
  9. It'll give the car a more pleasing sound on acceleration and possibly gives a horsepower or two at high revs. It does improve throttle response quite nicely, especially if you mount an "intake trumpet"/"velocity stack" in the filter housing so it sucks 100% from the fender.
  10. Thank you, Martin I have to add that Volvo calls their XC90 and the stationcar its based on "AWD". Yet these both use a Haldex system, just like the VW's. No center diff, just a clutch pack that engages once the front wheels slip.
  11. I would start by replacing the fuel filter - lots of info on how-to if you search the forum. Or look at "RavensbladeImpreza" on the web. I would also replace the spark plug cables. A fracture can show up as intermittent bucking. Both are easy, quick and not too expensive.
  12. PLEASE! "AWD" doesn't mean "permanent". So your first statement is false. Old style Land Rovers have a central diff with a selectable lock. Is that AWD or 4WD by your personal definitions? And can you explain to me why my 1990 Legacy had a sign on the back reading "2.2 GX 4WD"???
  13. I suggest you read the updated version of my method, on page 3 or 4 of this post: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=21681&highlight=Coolant+replacement+without
  14. Piston slap. And yes, it's because the molybdenum coating is worn off that you can now hear it. BMW's V-10 engined M5 slaps at idle ! So do many Hondas..
  15. It's all marketing babble. "All" and "Four" mean the same on a normal car with four wheels. You have to look at each vehicle's mechanics to define further. Volvo XC and VW "4-Motion" are part time 4WD/AWD. Subarus are permanent.
  16. Well, there is no need to recall ALL vehicles because of a bearing problem. However, they should not try to profit from out-of-warranty cars. In fact, the Scandinavian importer has halved the price of the bearings. Essentially selling the new type bearings at cost price.
  17. This picture from a meet yesterday shows the number plate obstruction more clearly. Not THAT bad, but still in the way:
  18. You might want to try cleaning up the contacts in the rear light clusters. Sounds like a classic grounding problem. Your blinker could be pulling ground through the red lamps at the rear. Simple test: Disconnect the left rear cluster, try blinking left. If the blinker flashes (twice the normal rate) then it's the contacts in the cluster.
  19. Good idea, Texan. Have you taken out a patent yet? Or may I share the theory...?
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