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Everything posted by Strakes
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I've gone to the dealer to buy my filters for a while, at first they used to sell me "Nippon" filters and then a few years back they switched to "Purolator-Fuji" (made in the USA) filters. Both were printed with the same Subaru part number. Many car makers like to keep the parts contents percentage (as stated on the various labels that are stuck on new cars at the dealer's lot) high enough to call a car they sell "American/Domestic", thereby saving on some costs, import taxes, and etc. That's one of the reasons some Subarus come with Champion plugs from the factory, yet the dealer's stock NGKs. So, the link you posted maybe a set of really old OEM filters, or some guy's got a really good deal on new filters imported from Japan (for sale at dealers there). To be sure you're getting a good product for your Subaru, why not just buy stock filters from one of many Subaru parts websites? I'm sure there are places that USMB members could recommend.
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Thank God you're okay. I don't know how common death and injury is across the nation from people working on improperly supported cars. But there was a sobering story of a man (who was a husband and a dad) here in the local news not too long ago. He was crushed to death in his garage because he didn't use jack stands while working on the brakes. His wife was the one who discovered his body.
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Seeing that you probably don't offroad with a GT you may want to consider a clear DOT approved protective film. 3M makes a lens film that protects lens pretty well. Many places will have in stock pre-cut for your particular make and model car. Try a search for Griot's garage on the web...these guys are pricey so pricing them around may be to your benefit.
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A few years ago, when my wife's 93 legacy tranny started to slip into and out of 1st gear, I put the car up on ramps and performed a tranny service that required 8 quarts on refill. I had left the car drain all day and a little trickle kept coming out for hours. I then measured the fluid in the catch pan and put the same amount back (8 quarts). Anyway, since the overhauled transmission, I've never had to put more than 4.5 quarts back in. By the way, one of the things listed as failing specs during the overhaul was on the itemized list saying: "Inadequate line-pressure, failed specs." I'm not a tranny expert, so I'm assuming that item may have had something to do with me draining so much fluid out.
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I'm glad you didn't get hurt. For damage like that, I'd go to a professional collision repair shop. I used to live up in NoVa, and I don't remember any places that I could recommend to you. Ask around at work or something and you might hear a particular shop's name that does excellent collision repair work. You may want to get your insurance to cover some of the cost...cause I'm guessing it'll take a lot to fix. Good luck!
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new struts
Strakes replied to bridorf's topic in 1990 to Present Legacy, Impreza, Outback, Forester, Baja, WRX&WrxSTI, SVX
My wife's 1993 Legacy wagon has had KYB GR2's on them about 3 years now. She loves them. I love them. I'd recommend you save your pennies if the GR2's are cheaper than stock. -
All I want is ease of application and removal, and the ability to help keep road gunk and bugs from permanently imbedding into the paint. On our older car I've been very happy with Mother's Cleaner Wax Liquid. On our newer one, I've been using Rain-X liquid wax and then I use their Fast-Wax after each wash. These seem to work great. I really like the Rain-X stuff, it seems to keep the car cleaner longer. Some of my friends who have collector cars, love the pricey Zymol stuff like Legacy777 recommended.
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If you live in desert areas, or tow a lot of trailers, then the owners manual recommends the following: --- Page 11-13 Owner's Manual of 2002 Legacy/Outback: In choosing an oil, you want the proper quality and viscosity, as well as one that will add to fuel economy. The following table lists the recommended viscosities and the applicable temperatures..... 5W30 preferred temps below 40C/105F 10W30/10W40 above -20C/0F ....Engine oil viscosity (thickness) affects fuel economy. Oils of lower viscosity provide better fuel economy. However, in hot weather, oil of higher viscosity is required to properly lubricate the engine. Recommended grade and viscosity under severe driving conditions: If the vehicle is used in desert areas, in areas with very high temperatures, or used for heavy-duty applications such as towing a trailer, use of oil with the following grade and viscosities is recommended. API classification SL or SJ: SAE viscosity No.: 30, 40, 10W50, 20W40, 20W50 ---- There you have it. Use an oil that best suites your use and climate.
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I think that this has been talked about before and I did a search, but couldn't find it. On my MY2002 Legacy GT 5MT my clutch operates great. There are no noises, or vibrations when the pedal is not-pushed. However, when I fully depressed the clutch pedal, there was a squeak at the last inch at the end of its travel coming from the outside and I felt a little bit of rubbing through my foot. It only sqeaked at that point, not a "squeak, squeak sqeak" sound like a bad throw out bearing. It appeared that the cable and or linkages needed lube. The rubbing noise was only during the movement of the pedal during the last inch of travel. So, I went to the engine bay, underneath the air-cleaner, pulled back this little rubber boot at the throw-out bearing area (I think) and lubed it up with some grease. The noise is gone...and I no longer feel the rubbing through my foot. Question, did I do the right thing? Is there another place I should lube? Or do I need to go and clean off this grease, cause it was all wrong. Thanks in advance!
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My understanding is that part of the problem is that 165r13 & 175/80R13 are getting harder to come by. A friend of mine had a really hard time finding 175/80R13s in a major name brand for his Mazda...and had to get an off-brand. Most cars in the US have 14-16 inch tires and most manufacturers are cutting back at producing tires in your original size because they don't sell that many...so each successive new model of tire may not have the smaller 13 inchers in the production plan. Maybe other people here can point you somewhere these sizes are still available.
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If you were to drive a bunch of new cars without logos on them, how would you know which were the Subaru? For the legacy wagon and the outback, the side window profile. A subdued aggressive stance. The ability for the cars to look both benign and aggressive, if that makes any sense. The WRX, the front. What is it about a Subaru that sets it apart from the others? Legacy: All wheel drive and handling, and then engine performance. The legacy and outback have a reputation of feeling under powered. WRX: its got it all. - Subaru seems to have worked on changing their image over the past few years - how would describe their new direction? What are they about now, compared to the past? Now, don't know, but they are finally adding potent engines in the line-up accross the board. Stereotype for me - what type of person is a "Subaru person"? What has surprised me is that the political affiliation during election times is split almost equally between conservative and liberal by judging from bumper stickers on Subarus in my area. They appeal to both sides of the fence. You pull up next to a Forrester. Who's driving? A 40-50 year old female professor/teacher type. How about for a WRX sedan? A young single or married male 20-30 years old with no kids. An imprezza or wrx wagon? A young female 20-30 years old like a fresh out of college and ready for professional life type (like a teacher, nurse, veterinarian, etc.) A new Legacy? Married male and females 30 something years old with a couple infant/kid car seats in the back. If it's a male, then it's usually a Legacy GT. Compared to people who drive Nissan/Toyota/Ford, Subaru drivers are much more....what? Into doing things outdoors: biking, kayaking, skiing, etc.
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My wife's car is still R12 and my observation on my wife's 93 Legacy site glass is crystal clear with the engine running, and the a/c on. Blip the throttle and rev the engine...maybe a 2 or 3 tiny bubbles appear momentarily and then the site glass goes clear again. The a/c in this car has been running great. It doesn't look anything like those pictures of yours, so I think that you are right and that you're looking at a lot of foam. Ouch, my parents live in hot Houston ...not a great place to lose your a/c, good luck!