[HTi]Johnson

So I have a 1998 OUtback Ltd. with the 2.5 DOHC. Is that the phase II and what is the usual gasket failure with these engines? I'm just going to reseal the whole engine....like: Head Gaskets Rear Main ALready did front cam and crank Valve covers Water Pump Oil Pan I've never done this job on an EJ. What should I know about these engines? Is there any tips/tricks I should know. I'm tired of not knowing the true condition of the engine, I bought this car a couple months ago and am starting to run into some problems like oil leak, overheating, and I just need to have a peace of mind.

Where do you bring all that junk? That would be fun/great thing to do, but paying to dump it, there's a reason someone brought it out there.

I highly doubt I had a bubble since I spent hours trying to bleed it out. I did it the same way this time as the last. I put the car on ramps so I could have the radiator the highest point. Then, I Took the upper hose off and filled it with water until it would flow out...then waited for it to settle. Once it wouldn't go down, I filled the radiator with coolant until it came out of the upper radiator port then I put the hose on and filled it until coolant came out of the air bleeder hole. P.S. The crappy stat I threw in had a air bleeder hole. Then, I filled the overflow. Thanks for the tip on removing the hose and filling it. That saved a lot of time. Justin.

HAH I'm just saying that, at least in Oregon, we have another thing going against us...hippies. They like their forests. But we also have another thing going for us: The fact that ORV has a decent chunk of the economy. There's a town called Florence, they have a population of 9000 and when labor day hits, over 12000 people are there for the ORV park called South Jetty. That's a pretty big chunk of business that would go down the drain if ORV was banned here.

Fuel filters! Fuel filters! Fuel filters! There's two of them, one in the engine bay and one by the fuel pump (in front of the rear passenger tire, above a protective plate. Replace them, you might be suprised. An 1981 wagon should have two right?

That's not a stupid question at all. A stupid question is "Why is my car overheating, even after I put a new, non-subaru thermostat in." That's prettymuch what I did. As for good gas mileage. I thought there's a lady on the board that was getting some great gas mileage in her ea82 wagon. bucky72 or something is her screen name.

OK. I just realized you asked if I was using an OEM, as in Subaru. No. I was stupid and when to the parts store and they gave me a brand called OEM. Literally GAVE me it, the guy got too frustrated with the scanner because it wasn't scanning the barcode. I should have known better . I made it into the dealer and got a real OEM thermostat, it's cured. Question: Do you think the first Subaru stat failed after I drained the coolant? If so, you think it's just a coincidence? So yeah, Subaru T-Stats a must. Thanks everyone for your brain power. Here's a for you all. -Justin

That's funny because that's what's pissing me off the most. He's just going to screw the tranny up when I could use it for my Automatic AWD RX, yeah I know, the worst of the bunch. That's why I'm pissed that he won't sell me the AWD. I offered to pay him for the tranny AND buy the Part Time 4wd tranny too. He's too stubborn and doesn't listen to what I Have to say, it takes a 3rd party for him to realize WTF is going on.

This is an argument my friend's and I are having. My friend has a RX that is in RWD. I give him a hard time because it should be AWD. I tell him to go get an old corolla or something. The other day they told me "We can't put a N/A ej25 in it, because it wouldn't be an RX without the turbo." What I'm getting at is, with something as Rare as an RX, he shouldn't defame it by RWD'ing it. I'm asking you guys/gals what you think of when you hear RX. When I hear it, I think of a three door (usually white) coupe that is turbo with an AWD tranny that has a diff lock and hi/lo. RX sedans don't count in this poll. Thanks!

I have some XT6 FSMs, but could the transmission chapters be useful?

could it be his ignition switch? You may have to jump the starter by putting a push button in. That's what the prior owner did with my old EA81.

The weber conversion manual says to use anaerobic sealant between the surfaces. As for the gasket...the paperish one should work.

Did it freeze with coolant in it? Check the heads and block for cracks and popped freeze plugs....once it's torn down.

Isn't the the right side, as seen from the driver's seat, look at the bell housing.

Yeah, especially nowadays, the whole car is a crumple zone. For every milisecond it takes energy to travel, say in a front end collision, through a car into the passenger compartment, the force (damage) drops exponentially. That reduces the energy you absorb. In every accident, there are three collisions...the car vs object, then your body vs car (Like your skull against windshield), then your internal organs vs you body (I.E. Brain against skull). So the goal is to have the car absorb/distribute the energy elsewhere. As a volunteer fire fighter, I've seen a wreck that should have been really bad, a car going 50+mph rear ended a semi trailer that was stopped. The car was obliterated, but once we cut the doors off, he just had a broken ankle (Probably because he was mashing the brake soo hard.).

Yeah, check grounds. Then check the ground on the CD deck. Maybe run it's own little ground wire from the deck body to the car body.

150k!:-\ If you're thinking maybe the water pump, I was thinking that. But why would it happen to fail right after a timing belt change. Damn it, I replaced all the seals but skipped the pump because I ...well, I don't know why.

I tried bleeding the system about 7 times. Even raised the front end and all. Here's what's going on: It will idle at normal temp. Then I drive it and it stays normal, then, about 3 or 4 miles, it starts to climb, kinda fast, then I coast, it'll drop a little. Then it goes to like 7/8 then down and kinda settles at 3/4, then goes back up...the thermostat is a 170 degree one. Could the timing be off? I rotate the engine and all the marks on the pulleys line up, perfect, but the belt marks are one tooth off to the left. But everytime I rotate it, the marks line up, the single marks are up, double marks line up.

Hello. I just found out that the driver's side of the radiator is cool while the passenger side is warm. And it will stay moderately cool if I don't "Get on it".

Update: I drove it for bout 3 miles, it held at normal temp. THen when I pulled around in my driveway, it started getting hot. And the heater got cooler...warm, but not as warm during the drive. Must just be more air. As for the thermostat, I put it with the "Bulb" towards the block. Like the one I removed was. Thanks for the help, I'll keep ya updated. Thanks, Justin.

Yea, the heater was cold until I got the air out...now it's blowing warm. New OEM T-stat too. The tensioner was fine.

1998 Outbck Ltd. Wagon 2.5 DOHC I searched this topic. I found that you need to bleed the air out with the air bleeder, I did that. (Yes, I made the mistake of pulling the rad to do the belts.) I opened the radiator cap and the bleeder, topped it off and started it. Then filled it as needed for about half hour, water started coming out of the air bleeder so I put it back together and test drove, it got really hot, so I went back and bled it again. The car will stay at normal temp while idling but wwhen I drive it, it warms. The fans are connected and working. The only thing that I can think of is: Is there a way to route the timing belt so the water pump isn't included and the car still runs fine? I don't think there is, but I'm lost to what it could be. Thanks, Justin P.S. I took the Radiator out because I had to take the Cam sprockets off, I did the front seals.

I can't say that I've heard of such a tool. Can you show pics or explain? Thanks, Justin.

Hello all. I have a 1998 Outback Ltd. Wagon. It has the 2.5l DOHC engine. I'm going to do the timing belt and front seals (front and the four cams) this weekend. ANy suggestions on what to do or not do. I'm paranoid about the cams spinning when the belt isn't on. Thanks. -Justin.

As for the nipple being "in front" of the TB, is that closest to the firewall? If so, that is for the automatic tranny. Don't have an auto? PLug it, it also makes a great spot to plumb your blow off valve.