[HTi]Johnson

However, all ea82 blocks will work with the two different heads. It just changes the compression a little.

Timing belt? Have you checked it?

Yeah, don't the pumps use the fuel as a lubricant?

I think all ea81 bars are the same. You could always make one like :vSorry, I had to show it off, I'm proud of my work, what can I say

Thanks. The car it's coming out of (ea82) has no engine and it going to the junkyard anyways. As long as the width is the same, we'll try anyways. I weld for a living so that won't be a problem. THanks again.

I'm leaning towards the new-ish strut top.

Nice that's what 5 extra HP? Seriously, I think that's cool to add little things to the car to personalize it. How many people can say they have a FREE Momo shift knob. I've seen some shift knobs that have 4 buttons on the top that are wirlessly linked to a relay box. You can make the four buttons do seperate things (like fog lights), I've been eying it.

I wasn't interested in making it power steering or not. But you're saying there are mounting differences?

Hello all. WOuld my steering rack from my EA82 Wagon fit into my friend's EA81 wagon? Or is it wider. Thanks! Justin.

I thought about that, but this way, it's going to be nearly impossible for the driveshaft to be shoved into the transmission. I've heard that breaks some 4wd components. But it's easily modified if need be.

Hello, it's the EA82 5spd D/R tranny. The tailshaft has about 1/4 inch play in it. (in and out) Is this normal/bad/fluke? Should I be worried?

How about this!: and this

Isn't a RX a G56 in the vin and his is probably a G55?

I agree with the Aussy! But, we will add two pieces that go from the piece behind the diff up to the body, where the old torsion bar mounted. That'll add a lot of strength, plus, a friend told us that any impact that causes the diff to push the driveline into the tranny with break some of the 4wd components in the tranny.

The body mount, right?

I kinda follow. You think there should be something from the mounting point and either mounted towards the back or front of the vehicle?

Title asks it. I'm helping [HTi]Savage make a 4 inch lift for his Gen 1 Brat with Gen 2 drive gear. It's .120 steel tube, I think it should hold. I've seen less material take more abuse. I'm pretty confident as a 4 year iron worker, that it should take a beating.

I meant my thread. Not nipper's post. Sorry for taking it the wrong way nipper. It's all good.

On a loyale right? What I do it take the radiator out. Take the accessory belt off. Pull the timing belt covers. Set the engine to the middle cam timing mark. Take the pulley off. Take the timing belts off. (mark what way they are on, so you can put them on the same way, so the rotation is the same.) Take the pump off. I use a crescent wrench and put it on the rotor side of the pump (with a cloth around it) and use a 12mm wrench and take the nut off the shaft and then remove the shaft. Then remove the seals. Clean it up, a lot. Put the new seals in (mickey mouse, o-ring, and shaft seal. You can use a little anaerobic sealant to hold the mickey mouse gasket in place.) Then reverse the steps for installation. Hope this helps if at all.

No need to be rude about it. Yes I was talking about the decks. I wasn't talking about welding steel to aluminum...as far as I know, that's impossible. I was asking if it's worth it to weld aluminum to the cylinder and add stability. But forget I even asked. Mods, delete this post please.

Why do they fail? I know this has been asked a lot. I have read a lot of replies. Is it just the first DOHC version or did they fix it by closing fixing the Piston "Islands"...making it so it wasn't almost a solid coolant jacket around the cylinder? Some say it's because the only connection points for the cylinders were on the 3 and 9 o' clock positions. They say that the cylinder vibrate too much and cause the gasket to "wear" out. I guess my question is, would it be worth it to weld a piece of material so the cylinder is supported at the 12 and 6 position too? I've heard of a sand rail company that does that. They weld a piece in.

Don't forget to open the Air vent hole on the passenger's side of the radiator when you are filling it up. I forgot...caused a lot of problems with Air bubbles. I did it the way he described, by pulling the hose.

I'd think the engine is just an Engine. The OBD part is with the computer and electronic. Yes, there may be more holes for things like Knock Sensor and CTS or what ever. That's my 2 cents.

That's hella badass. The RX II must be our the same as a USDM RX?

Here they are I can mail ya two if you want. $3 for both including shipping.(That's breaking even)