[HTi]Johnson

Take the belt off or relieve the tension on your water pump pulley. Now try to wiggle it up and down, left and right, and in and out. It shouldn't move at all... a little is ok, a little as in "I think it may have moved....but that could have been my imagination". Also, try to spin the pulley, it should have a little resistance with smooth rotation, no grinding or hard spots. -Justin.

Someone need a speedo cable for their manual tranny:brow:? I have one you can have, free +shipping.

Yeah, I'm replacing mine when the engine is out. . I never needed to replace them, I just do, for good measures. -Justin

Nice, all my cars have come to me AC equipped but not working...AKA the prior owners thought it'd be cool to take the AC lines off the compressor. I've pondered installing AC, but I live in Oregon, it gets "hot" here like 2 days a year:lol:. So I just roll the windows down a little and open the vents. -Justin

How so? You still have to remove the drive line to replace the diff, and then the axles, hanger and 2 nuts in back.(not to mention that the seal is less than $10 and differentials go for at 3 times that amount, unless you're lucky) Replacing the seal should just involve taking drivline off and a nice impact gun. BCA Part # 1173 Is the seal, I think, is it called a pinion seal? Again, it RockAuto has come through with it! They pay me for these plugs, but good service gets good reviews. click here for the direct link to the part. Hope this helps, -Justin.

I'm trying the Fel-Pro Perma Torque myself. I just installed them and haven't got the engine back in the car. I picked them up at www.rockauto.com . For $19 each, plus shipping. But if you're doing head gaskets you might as well order oil pump (or just reseal), timing belts, oil pan gasket...etc. so it makes the shipping cheaper per part. Oh yeah, Napa has ball joints for $28 and rockauto has them for $18 (same ones by part number) or so. I've had nothing but good luck with rockauto. Some people don't like them for some reason. my .02 cents. -Justin

I don't think you're going to strip anything. But just make sure you are turning the wrench the right way;). (My friend did that, we had to drill and tap larger studs in). I've had luck with an impact...if you don't have an impact, just use a socket wrench with appropiate socket (should be 14mm sometimes 17mm) and if they are real hard, use an extension like a pipe or tube. Hopefully they gave you the right gasket. I've never had luck with auto parts stores and exhaust gaskets, they usually give me the gasket that goes at the end of the Y pipe. Good Luck, keep us updated on how it goes! -Justin

Fuel filters?

Woh. I just found those OEM O-Rings for $1.61 a piece at RockAuto.. click here you just need to do a parts search for #A4002-56062. The thing is you have to buy 10, which makes it $16.10 plus shipping. Better than $4 something. I know this is an old thread, but I don't think it's . (HAH I've always wanted to use that!) -Justin.

BECK/ARNLEY Part # 0523504 Transmission Seal, Right;Drive Axle Flange;1 Per Car BECK/ARNLEY Part # 0523505 Transmission Seal, Left;Drive Axle Flange;1 Per Car For some reason they have different part numbers for each side. You should check out www.rockauto.com they are the best with most prices. Even with shipping included. Hopefully that works.

Man, as for finding those mounts, this is all I could come up with HERE

I'm thinking it's a grounding issue. My gauge would spike into the red right after I turned the blower motor (for the heater) on. Someone told me it was a bad ground, so I ran some grounds from the engine to the body in a couple spots and a beefier ground from battery to engine. It worked. Justin.

Ya know what you can do to get rid of that MAF? Megasquirt:headbang:. PM me, I make the units...but I'm still working on an almost plug n play for subarus. Oh yeah, great work too!! I Have one for my Turbo wagon, it's a hotwire though.

HAH HAH! I love the oil stains...cool page so far.

check www.craigslist.org

I believe the intakes will bolt up.

If you're gunna go through the trouble of converting to an EA82 Turbo, may as well go for the EJ (Engines found in the legacies and etc.). You have to do all the same stuff as an EA82, plus get/make an adapter plate for the tranny, and get a flywheel drilled out for the EJ. Check the retrofit section. There's "How-to's" there. EDIT: YOU BEAT ME TO IT S'ko!! :-)

EA81s are pushrods and EA82s have timing belts (AND NOISY LIFTERS, at least mine:mad:) I'd say stick with the EA81. EA82s are good motors, but the work might be too much, however you could get an ea82 SPFI with the ECU and harness (not for the non-mechanically inclined) and put it in. I think the engine would drop right in, and bolt up to the tranny without mods.

The Pick N Pull by the airport, off hwy 99?

I'm probably not lucky to have "walks in the park". I've replaced the U joint via acetylene torch...it worked but I burnt my foot 'something fierce'. The damn berry managed to get through my work pants, into my boot, and to the bottom of my arch, in the middle! And my profession is Iron working, I deal with welding splatter all day. Yeah, it was easy, I guess...but the burn factor slowed me down . OH I know, it's because it wasn't a Subaru's Driveline. DAMN TOYOTAs. Ok, as for replacing the U joints in Subarus, I've heard that you can't, from some people, and others are saying that you can. What's the deal? I've seen someone do it on an EA71's line. They used the bench vise, socket and a BIG friggin' hammer. So yeah...good night!! -Justin.

I the reason is... it's easier to deck the heads, to deck the block, you'd more than likely have to split it. Gotta be carefull. Decking the heads and/or block, could make the intake not bolt on anymore (I'd think after some serious metal was removed). Oh, maybe they deck the heads mainly due to warping?

Yeah I was thinking like $600 to $800 for that. But it's all about how much anyone is willing to pay for it.

Do you have access to an impact gun? Those help with frozen bolts.

Yeah, the #1 is on the left (OK OK in "real terms" it'd be the right side, because that's the perspective from the driver's seat:grin:) closest to the front and yes, the green connectors need to be connected. TIming is 20deg btdc (Not the 8 deg that it says under the hood, of your first ea82t, that you didn't know the hood was swapped out....not that that's happened to me before ) Good luck with your car, Justin Johnson.

OH yeah, or does the vibration get worse with speed or the car. Thanks, Naru, I forgot about crappy rebuilt axles. He didn't say whether the axles were replaced while the engine was out or a different time.