[HTi]Johnson

He means 194 Bulbs as in the part number is 194. Yeah, talk about

There are inspection pieces on the timing belt covers. (Black plastic on the front of your engine.) Pull the passenger side inspection piece off and have someone crank the engine over, you should see the belt move. WATCH YOUR FINGERS on the belts. If you weren't soo far away, I'd come over and help.

Well... You could set the flywheel to top dead center and take the distributor cap off and the rotor should be on the #1 spark plug wire. The number 1 plug is the one that is on the passenger side the closest to the bumper...then #3 is the one next to it and 2 is on the driver's side front and #4 is closest to the distributor (AKA Disty). If you hear backfiring, I would bet it's 180 off. Do you have a timing light and an extra person? If you do, put the light on the #1 plug and have someone crank the car over and point the light at the hole in the bell housing, where you see the flywheel, and it should flash on the numbers, if it does, your timing is close enough to at least start the car. If it doesn't it's probably 180 off. Did you put the plug wires on right. The firing order is 1 3 2 4. #1 cylinder on the disty cap is the one that faces rearmost to the firewall. its will be closest to the clip or screw for the cap on the back side. the screw will be slightly to the right of the #1 connection the rotor rotates counter clockwise, and #1 cylinder is ont he front passenger side of the motor

ROCK ON

What kinda Subaru do you have? I know on my GL-10 and RX, if I unlocked the driver's side, all the doors unlock. So, give us your car info, and I'll try to locate that schematic for ya:grin:

What I meant by the electrical connections is: Just check them and make sure you didn't pull them apart with the engine removal/install. YES...check the ATF.

Where;s your town, in oregon... And for it backfiring...you probably have the distributor in 180 degrees off. Take the cap off and remember where the rotor is pointing and pull it out and put it in with the rotor facing the opposite direction. NOTE: THe rotor will move as you lower the distributor. Make sure it is pointing DEAD 180. EDIT: I just googled where that town is...you best be going to WCSS 8!

I hope I'm not wrong...

How's the fluid levels. ANd I have a 4eat, but I'm not sure if it is supposed to have a vacuum line from the manifold to the tranny. Are you sure the electrical connections to the tranny are good?

I second changing the fuel filters...both of them. When was the last time they were changed. I had a wagon, took it on the sand days after I bought it and didn't check all the connections and such to the carb. The air cleaner came loose and needless to say I sucked some sand into my engine. Yeah...it was a fun trip home. I would hold the gas steady and it would go...stumble...go...stumble...go...stumble...go...stumble... top speed was 45mph on a 65 mile trip. I changed the fuel filters and BAM! gone. From then on, all my engines have been sealed up and the only thing allowed in is regulated fuel and air.

OH YEAH...I haven't had the honor of having a diff lock. I own both a Rx and a GL-10:rolleyes:

I have NEVER seen a T on the hoses coming from that unit. I bet you have a boost leak! Take the T off and put one line on one nipple and the other on the other. See if defrost works (with car running), if it doesn't switch them and if that doesn't work tell us.

I did the same, I think it's safer than putting washers on the studs (between the spindle and the wheel), which I heard of people doing.

HAH HAH Brad, you kidder you. If everyone notices, This thread is a year old, kinda like all the threads he bumped...hmm what day is today........

In both of my subarus, the prior owners have rigged push button starts on them. I think it's cool. I know that they had the button goto the black part on the starter (a little blade connector) then to the button. I don't know if it is a ground or a positive wire. I guess what I am trying to say is that if it is a open ground and the button closes the loop. I can look tomorrow.

Yeah, Subaru has a plant in Indiana, they're building the B9s and Legacies there... but the B9 kinda flopped (what a suprise)...Now that they are partnered with Toyota (more like Toyota owns 8.7%ish of Subaru) they are going to build Camrys there too. Smart on Subaru's part.

This happened to a me with a friend's car. ON THE TRANSMISSION! Good thing we were planning on taking it out anways...it was awkward dropping the tranny with the axle still attached. What I did was heat the hole up with an oxy/acetylene torch and drove a 3/16 pin through it...that's because the roll pin was put in backwards (where the splines don't line up). I knew that the pin would heat up and melt way faster than any of the metal that belongs there.

My connectors on my 87 gl-10 turbo wagon are in front of the ECu and my 89 RX is in the back. They are the male and female connectors that are green. The green ones are two poles and the black one is single pole.

Timing belts are easy. Check this out:Timing Belt Procedure EA82 A Step by Step on how to change your timing belts. You might as well change the cam seals, water pump, and oil pump (or reseal the oil pump). It sounds like a lot, but it's not. You have to take the timing belts off to replace them, so before you put new ones on you just put the new water pump in it. It's worth it to learn about your car by working on it, AND FUN TOO! I bought this $50 tool set at Wal-Mart, it's a "Allied" Brand Basic set, with box wrenches, 1/4", 3/8" and 1/2" sockets with ratchets. With that tool set and a basic screw driver set, you can dismantle the whole engine. (The crank bolt IS a 22mm but a 7/8" socket works too...I recommend the 22mm but my tool set didn't have one.

THERE! It wouldn't let me editmy last post!

It could be a vacuum leak with the brake boost cylinder or a crappy electrical connection with your brake lights that causes too much of a draw on your alternator. (I've had the second one happen) P.S. A year and model will help a lot. -Justin

<TANGENT> So, what about those headstuds...what's gunna be special about them? <END TANGENT>

I've been running Accel in all my Subarus. (The three I've had.) One was an '83 GL, '87 GL-10 Turbo, and my '89 RX. There is an old thread discussing the reason why Accel now sucks...something about them ouotsourcing the manufacturing to Mexico. And that Napa has a coil that is the same as the old Accel...maybe try searching, if you are interested. I give Accel two thumbs up.

Will the INNER FRONT boots work as both Rear boots on my 1989 RX?

Damn, If wasn't on Duty at the Fire Dept. I'd be up there in 2.5!!