[HTi]Johnson

Lol I broke 1 the other day...good thing I have about 3/8" sticking out.

So...I have my engine for my RX torn apart and I'm in the cleaning stage now. There was a lot of water in the oil and I was wondering what do I do about it. I have the oil pan off and I'm letting it drip out over night. Somone told me that I might have to get the block dipped in solvent because the water won't truly leave. But then I start thinking of all the Toyotas and other cars that I have done a headgasket job on (that had water in the oil), and I just replaced the oil and called it good. So I'm thinking of not worrying about it too much...what do you guys do? Thanks, Justin.

Thanks Will. By the sound of it, with your new RX project, it doesn't sound like you have much time.

Nice LMAO!!!

Hello all. I was wondering if there is a difference in the front harness between years of EJs. I don't mean Ej22 is different than ej25...i mean did they change the harness in the years within the EJ22? I'm talking about the front harness that is required for conversion/transplant into an EA series. Thanks all for your time. Justin.

http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/forumdisplay.php?f=3 here's the link to the new gens, we're not kicking you out or anything, just showing you the best place to get help with your car.

yeah the swap is easy cheese. No welding or cutting. You just need all the parts

Oh, believe me when I say, there isn't any carbon on those cylinder walls.

Hello all. I have a 1987 Gl-10 Turbo, with a D/R. It seems like it is miss firing. I let it warm up and when it gets to operating temp and I pull the #3 plug wire, the idle doesn't change. All the other cylinders make a difference if I pull the corresponding plug wire. I also pulled the injector wire off the 3rd cylinder and it does change the idle a little, but I notice a big difference when I am driving without the 3rd injector. I haven't done a compression check, there isn't gas in the oil or water in the oil (or vice-versa). I said that because it is the infamous 3rd cylinder on a turbo...the one that tends to burn up first. Thanks for you time, Justin.

Yeah we paid $20 for ours, he paid $6!!! (I have one too). I'd say that's a nice find.

OH ok. What about a 4at? oh yeah I comp checked the cylinders 1 is 85, 2 is 93, 3 is 30, and 4 is 120. So I think I see a problem. I am hoping it's not a burnt piston..

This smoke is coming out of the exhaust I didn't think there was a way for ATF to get into the exhaust unless it went the long way, as in through a crack in the radiator, that goes into the coolant line,then breaches into the cylinder. There is water in the oil. I'll do a compression check on the cylinders...what numbers should i get?

http://eugene.craigslist.org/pts/127873507.html There she be...I'll get better pics tomorrow, if I remember.

Hello All. Just had to tell you all what I bought. I paid $400 for it...body is straight except the passenger fender (has a little dent), front bumper got pushed to hard on the same corner, and the back bumper looks like it had too much weight pushing down on it...it's at a slope. It has the 4speed AWD auto tranny:-\ with the 3.7 LSD, it's a coupe. The interior is great...seats look nice and no cuts. The thing is...it has coolant in the oil and oil in the coolant. The guy didn't explain why it did that...just said it broke down. So I am thinking that it over heated and he blew gaskets (best case scenario) or blew gaskets and everything is warped. So when I get some time I am going to pull the engine and take a look at it. I drove it from the place I bought to my work (about 3miles)...it was like a smoke screen. TONS! of white smoke...like a fog. I'm a part time fire-fighter and we usually get calls about cars being on fire when it turns out to be a coolant problem...I never knew why people would call about that...but now i see why, especially when I was stopped...couldn't even see the HEADLIGHTS behind me. EDIT: OH yeah NO RUST...ANYWHERE!

EDIT: VErsion 2: I'm dumb. I get it. You might not have as much oil...maybe have an oil resivor? Like they do with VW bajas.

What about those people who have put EA82 parts into their Outback or Forester?(Mainly the dual-range)...

Yes, I believe that's what he is talking about, an EA82T or at least an EA82 SPFI

Is your engine turbo'd? Fuel Injected? or Carbuerated? The only difference that makes are the heads and the compression.

what color is the vehicle? I was thinking white wagon with black wheels?

Someone had this in their Signature, but we all know where those went. It went something like "I'd rather drive a slow car fast, then a fast car fast" or something like that. I like pulling into the staging parking lot at the sand dunes...everyone staring at me....as I release my dune flag and then speed off into the dunes without getting out of my car for ANYTHING (Like locking hubs or airing down). That's only one reason why I like old gens.(I'm sure I'll do that if I ever get a new gen )

Well, I ... Pull radiator Pull V belt Put valve marks on center. (Three lines on the flywheel...not the degree mark.) Take Crank pulley off Remove timing covers One mark on the pulley should be pointing up and the other one down(You've done a head job, you know this already) Take timing belts off Take oil sending unit wire off Remove the bolts holding oil pump and remove pump. I used a crescent wrench and put it on the impeller and then took the cog gear off the oil pump with a socket wrench. Then the shaft should slide out...clean and then inspect the shaft, impeller and gear...and the respective mating surfaces. If it all looks good, replace gaskets, if it is scarred get a new/rebuilt pump. Clean everything up. Some people recommend putting a little bit of gasket sealer on the seam of the engine, where the pump mates to it (at the 12 and 6 o' clock posistions). You impeller gear should have a "B" or some mark on it, on the side that goes into the engine...your driven gear will have one too. Put the B side on the inside of the engine. And then installation is reverse of removal. Make sure the mickey mouse gasket doesn't slip out when you put it on. BUT when you get the pump bolted on completely, spin the cog gear by hand and make sure it spins freely with NO resistance. I hope this helped. Justin Johnson

Yeah, I had the same problem...replaced the gaskets (3 of them, $17 at napa). Ticking went away within 10 miles and I have 75 PSI at 3500 RPM running temp...I'm not sure about the gauge though, it's a cheap walmart one.

Well said Will.

Here's your timing belt set, with belts and all the pulleys.

Hello. My car is acting funny...stuttering until about 1.5k RPM and then just taking off fine. When I push the clutch in or just let off the gas without being in gear, it'll die...but start right back up. I think my alternator maybe taking a dump, could that affect it? This is a 1987 Gl-10 Turbo with an Intercooler. Oh yeah, I adjusted the timing, it was at 25' BTDC. Must've changed when I put the new belts on. It's at 20' now.