rumblee

I'll get some pics today. Probably going to use a bit of j.b. weld on it. Its' an ea82t and i doubt it will live too long with reduced flow from the pump...

Just pulled the water pump off after it blew up and it ate the raised area on the block that it mates to. Well... it didn't eat all of it but i'd say half of it. So....any fix for this or is this engine doomed?

Just curious why you would go through the extra cost and effort to go twin turbo? I don't mean to discourage you, it would be pretty sweet. But I think you could make more power than an ea81 can handle with a single turbo. Also don't think it would need to be so big that it spools too slow or has a peaky power curve @15psi.

I would take a real hard look at your maf sensor and all the piping associated with it. Usually an unplugged maf sensor or a leak behind it will cause something just like this. Try starting it up and unplugging the maf sensor. If nothing changes in the way its running that is likely your problem.

just be aware...wiring in hid ballasts and bulbs to make really really bright bluish headlights is not the right way to go about it. I'm sure you've noticed some of the annoying cars driving around with this setup. It throws useless light everywhere and doesn't really improve driving vision. hid headlights work as a system (ballasts, bulbs, projector, housing) and don't REALLY work any other way. there are some good diy retrofit sites ... http://www.theretrofitsource.com/ is one

its the linkage. just adjust it (i found it easiest to do from the top under the hood) and you should be fine. I put the car on jackstands and ran it through the motions, made adjustments, checked it, etc until it was just right.

I'm not 100% positive since there might be some jdm engines I am not aware of, but.... 2.0l ej turbo engines (ej205, 207) make quite a bit more power than the turbo ej22.

Awesome! I cringe everytime I see the 10% ethanol on every pump I stop at. Thanks to you I now know I can get ethanol free fuel about 4 blocks away from my apartment!

unfortunately, the aftermarket performance industry has made uneducated (in the automotive realm) consumers believe they can throw a huge exhaust a fmic, loud bov and crank the boost to achieve great numbers. Reality is usually a far cry from what marketing conveys. The truth is, making power comes down to cylinder pressure. Some engines can handle more than others. When you add more air (upping boost pressure) you've got to have the fuel there or the engine will go lean and detonate. Nothing will kill a forced induction engine faster than detonation. This engine doesn't have a great head design so it is more prone to detonation. It doesn't have a great cooling system. Not being able to keep the block and heads cool leads to detonation... Take the time to learn how a forced induction engine (maybe start with the fundamentals of the internal combustion engine if you haven't yet) works. It's great to know how all the parts work together and what can be modified to create different results. Once you understand what goes where and does what it makes it much easier to understand what should be and can be modified to make a car perform more how you want it to.

yep! thats exactly what it is

Not sure if you have pep boys in your area but they had tires for my 85 wagon in stock at a reasonable price. I've only put a few thousand miles on them but they seem to be just fine

turbone-looks like the factory wrx bypass valve is actually bypassed???

always thought the rotary would be great in an rx. Especially since rx was mazdas designation for "rotary experimental" Not a torquey enough engine for the off road crowd but would be great for an auto x or fun daily driver car

Why not just run 2 stock sized or maybe wrx cats? A single cat can flow enough for stock power levels....so two should be able to move plenty of exhaust if you're worried about them robbing power. If you're going to run dual exhaust at stock power levels you won't need large diameter piping either. I don't know what your emission tests are like in idaho but if they do a visual inspection they can fail you just by having an obviously modified exhaust system. If they just do the sniffer in the tailpipe well...my wrx passed with no cats and they are notorious for running rich. Different car but still something to think about.

might have a hairline crack in the throttle body after it got dropped? did you try spraying carb cleaner around the throttle body, intake manifold, etc to see if rpms jumped?

I vote for wiring issue as well, but never rule out a new starter just because it is new. I have seen quite a few new starters that never worked.

fj cruiser has one with inclinometer, compass, and thermometer. the gauges light up the same orange as my digi dash so i'm thinking of trying one but they are around $500 brand new....

New transmission is in....except uh...apparently the transmission that was in the car was from a non turbo car and so the axles in the car are 23 spline. DOh! Oh and the threads in the up pipe disintegrated when i tried to replace the o2 sensor. This simple trans swap is becoming a whole rebuild. Might as well just go td04 now. I already have the stock up/downpipes from my wrx anyway! anyone want to fab a header?

the previous owner of my 85 gl10 ea82t wagon put an aftermarket pump in it and it is very noisy as well. Seems to work just fine though. When i first got my car it seemed to really lay down under boost so i unbolted all of the exhaust except for the downpipe and then it ran great. The problem with mine was a plugged up catalytic converter. I haven't put the exhaust back on. Its still pretty quiet (the turbo is a great muffler) and it runs so much better. Might want to get the injectors flow tested to make sure its not going lean under boost. That is one of the main killers of turbo engines. Check your timing. Does it sounds like its popping through the intake or exhaust? Or just it sound like its inside the engine?

I think I'm going to stay away from autozone after having a few bad experiences with them. Oreilly's carries exedy, and napa has their own brand. I'm probably not going to order online since it will probably take forever to get the parts this time of year.

its a 5spd d/r trans..ea82t

Pulled the tranny last night. Might as well replace most everything in there while I can. So far on my list....clutch, pressure plate, throwout, pilot bearing, going to rework the shifter to get the miles of slop out, might build a custom downpipe while i've got the room. Any seals, tranny mounts, etc that should be replaced as well?? Engine doesn't seem to be leaking... Any suggestions are good. Oh yeah and which brands clutch/pp, and related bearings are preferred? OEM? thanks

I have always thought a rotary would be great in these cars. Would a 20b fit in front of an awd trans?

No, you can't magnaflux aluminum heads. Here is a link that describes how to check aluminum heads for cracks: http://classic.artsautomotive.com/crackcheck.htm You should also use a straight edge across the head to check for warpage. I don't know what the tolerance is for subie heads though.

Type: professional, shadetree, maintenance On what: lawnmower engine to caterpillar. prefer chevy, subaru, rotary engines, honda (yeah i know) How Long: 13 years Other Skills: too many to list.