snowstormer

that is cold- hope the heater works!

yea- its about as necessary as it is in alaska... do you have air on any of yours up there? there is a few days a year when it would be nice, but if you just think about winter when it gets hot, it puts things in perspective. i like having the windows down anyway, get the farmer tan.

well- pk says 4/3 will not work with air cond... so, i thought about it for about 3-4 seconds and went out and removed the air. 4/3 kit is on the way! yee-haw!!!

i would say the temp was around 0 to 5 above??? i figure the cold is pushing way south since its 23 below up here this morning. that is a nice looking older soob- those things are cool. is that for moosens right? you lucky dog. good luck pat. thanks for gettin my parts mick.

i see you have made some modifications to your car for more performance- thats great. i guess all i am saying is, going from 3 psi to 5psi, is not going to make any difference, the carb is designed to work at 3 psi. i do not think you will get any more performance by increasing fuel pressure. if the car is running good- i just have to ask- why do you need to increase the fuel pressure? as an old saying goes... if it is not broke, dont fix it. not slamming you at all- im just wondering why you want to increase the pressure?

is there a reason you want more fuel pressure? is the car not running right? i have a carbed car that puts out 2-3 psi all the time, it has always run fine... just curious, i thought 3 psi was an adequate pressure for a carbed car.

hey bob- im over in wascott, not to far away.

before you go buying a rear diff- check the one that is in the car. there is a tag on the back that will tell you the ratio. some of the auto cars were 3.9. if it is 3.9, you do not have to change it when you go to the 5spd d/r.

your pms are full. i will take the 2wd ea81 tranny, and any shifter parts you can scrape up! good luck on your road trip! thanks.

i have a 87 gl wagon with lift kit and 27 inch tires. [225/70r14.] i have put about 15,000 miles on it over the last year driving back and forth to work.[100 mile round trip] i would just be careful that you do not use too large of tires if you want freeway responsiveness. in hindsight i would have went with a slighly narrower tire.[205/70r14] my car has a 5 speed, that is just my personal preferance. to me there is no drawback to driving a lifted soob daily.

i think all spark making modules and apparatuses [ha ha] are built into the soob distributor. this is typical nondiagnostic parts changing advice but- if you have access easily to another disty, i would pop it in and see if it solves your problem. if not then you can rule it out. if you have already changed cap, rotor, wires and plugs, and you only get spark on two plugs consistently- i think it is worth a shot to change the disty. should only take you 10 min or so. if nothing changes, put the old one back in and go from there, repost and maybe someone will come up with a better idea.

glad you got it goin- sucks to have a car down...

yea- i had a bad ign switch that did that once also, good call.

duh! i just saw you have a 4wd- sorry about that. someone else can correct me, i think the only diff. between 4wd disty and 2wd disty is the advance curve. so the disty may still work if you need it. sorry for the mixup.

if you can not find anything local, i have a complete ea81 2wd disty i will sell you for a reasonable price to help you out. [25 bucks?] i have got a lot of parts from washington folks when i needed them so would gladly help you out if you had no alternative. i think you could find a disty in a yard out there though, keep me in mind if you cant. it is easy to swap out the whole disty. take of the cap and note the position that the rotor is pointing. draw a line on something if you have to. disconnect the small power wires to the disty. remove the two bolts that attach it to the block. slowly pull it up, the rotor will turn a little as you remove it. do not disturb the motor or crank it when disty is out! put in new disty, teeth have to engage and rotor will turn a little when you get it down, you may have to monkey with it- you have to get the rotor pointing at the exact point that the old rotor was pointing so you do not mess up your timing. hook everything back up and hopefully that will solve your problem. not 100% sure the disty is your problem but hope this helps you out if you find out it is. are any of the small wires going to the disty intermittantly shorting on anything?

dont want to be obvious but... battery connections tight? and clean? tried to jump it? battery cable to starter good on both ends? sounds like its not getting enough power to starter... weak battery?

yea, the ice in mpls even made the news up in duluth. i think they said there were like 800 accidents or something [most minor]. is that possible? 800 accidents in the metro area? maybe i heard it wrong... anyway, would rather have snow than ice, thats for sure.

wow! when i get stuck up here at least i dont have to worry about sliding off a mountain... cool pics.

winter is here... -20f last saturday night. supposed to hit -25 on wed night or so. still not much snow though. thats a bad combo, cold and no snow.... hope the pipes dont freeze. hey numbchux- do you have the 14mm hex socket to get out the drain plug on the block? if not, i have one and i am in duluth every weekday if you want to borrow it.

happens all the time on old rust buckets from around here. i use some large diameter logs for jack stands when working on cars with rust problems.

heres another thought- if you have access to a compression tester you could test your commpression just to rule that out. had a geo once with no power. turns out it had 50 psi on every cylinder. no wonder it had no power. did not use any oil either. go figure.

could be a plugged cat- i had a soob once that ran fine- no misses, just no acceleration and no power going up hills. someone suggested a plugged cat. brought it to an exhaust shop, they drilled a small hole in the exhaust pipe and checked back pressure- sure enough cat was plugged. they quoted me 200 to replace. i said no thanks. so they patched the hole they drilled and charged me 10 bucks for the test. i took it home and fixed it myself- gutted the cat. no emissions testing where i live. not sure what the laws are in your neck of the woods.

mods- if this is in the wrong place, feel free to move it. my son and i took a bus to denver last week to pick up a little red hatch from Shawnw. just want to say; Shawn is a class act and an honest guy. everything on the car was as described. drove it home, ran perfect. if anyone ever gets the chance to do business with shawn, rest assured he is honest and does what he says he will do. thats a big deal in my book. have a good day everyone.

does anyone have any opinions on the 4/3 lift versus the 3/3 lift? i am going to purchase a lift in the near future for an ea81 hatch. what would be the advantages of the 4/3? is the extra inch in the front? any drawbacks to the 4/3? any commentary is welcome. lift would go into ea81 hatch, 4spd d/r ...would put approx. 27" inch tires on it. thank you.

i think you should be able to get a heater core at any good auto parts store.[napa] etc. i have not bought one yet but i think i remember people saying they are less than 100 dollars. the 1000 price must be for labor. is that at a dealer? can you do any work yourself? its a big job, i think you have to pull the dash, but it is doable for the average diy backyard mechanic. it just takes some time. dont get me wrong, its a dreaded job but it is doable. have you tried flushing it out or anything? are you sure its the heater core? sometimes the blend door gets stuck part way on cold so you get lukewarm heat... just some ideas, im sure more people will chime in.