Xanadu62

Better than the 2k it was at with the auto. Or the 1200 in gear. Here's a video of it running. http://m.youtube.com/user/speed284504

Believe me. I know all about unmatched ratios burning up diffs. When I robbed the swap, I took everything. Trans, cross member, drive shaft, shifter assembly, flywheel, clutch, and especially the rear diff and cv axels. I'm gonna lift it up and put in the shifter bushing tonite and finish the interior. I might even wire in a few kill switches in random places while I'm at it. I can't wait to drive my wagon again!

It runs! It runs!!!!!!! I did an injector swap, and the idle smoothed out. I've got it set to about 1k for asurance reasons. I found a set of 22t injectors from a motor my friend was rebuilding and slapped them in. Revs kinda high at first, but comes back down. All I have let is the driveshaft and I'm done!

Ok, did the proper ground on the "MT" identifier pin. Learned from a buddy that the old FSMs are wrong. It was actually pin 50 on the connector that needed to be grounded. Finally got it done, started it, and it still revs to 3k and dies. The only thing I haven't done is the O2 sensors. Do you think that might be why it runs so rich? I gotta get them anyways because of the previous CEL, so no big deal. Still though, if anyone has any ideas, let me know. The only dumb idea is the one that doesn't get a try. ...Except for Billy's ideas (robot chicken reference). Anyways, thanks guys, and hopefully I can be driving a 5 speed postal wagon soon!

BIG UPDATE!!! The auto trans destroyed the front diff. Barely crawled its way onto the trailer. I'll post a few videos of what has happened since I've been AFK. Since then, the car has been lifted up onto jack stands, had the suck (i.e. the auto trans) removed, 5mt from a 92 with 4.11 ratio and exide clutch, new starter, outback hood and rear bumper, gt front bumper and wing, clutch pedal assembly (took months to get because the guy we bought it from was a complete rump roast clown and ************ tard. He didn't even include everything we paid for, didn't refund us for it, didn't ship it correctly, and when it finally got here it looked like a retarded three year old with touretts did the packaging while having a seizure.), and a lot of patience. It's almost complete except for a couple things. I still need the rear shifter bushing (ordered from subaru and getting on tuesday *crosses fingers*), the wagon MT drive shaft (only one fits > ), and reassembling the interior. That's all mechanical though. This whole project has been an electrical nightmare! After I was finally able to get a starter for it, I hooked it up, turned the key, and nothing. Fuel pump would prime, but not go while cranking. Had to jump the positive to the starter to make it crank. I've heard so many different things about wiring that I don't know what to believe. I've heard that you don't have to cut anything and it'll fire right up, that you have to cut a wire on the ecu to identify the 5mt, that the wire you just cut has to be grounded (blew the fuse instantly), the neutral safety switch has to be connected (but with no diagrams or instructions how), and that these pins are easy to find (on the gen 1 harness which was the only one I could find with instructions). I figured out that two pins shorted on the trans harness will let it crank, and the "MT" identifier pin stops the fuel pump when disconnected. Here's the big problem. It starts up, revs to 3k comes down, sputters, smells like gas, and dies. I've replaced the TPS, MAF, coil, and IAT. No change whatsoever. I also cleaned the IAT, and double checked the intake. All good. I've heard that if the ECU thinks it's still a manual that it will freak out, but I just don't know. Any help on this issue would be greatly appreciated, or even just any ideas. Thanks, and hopefully I can drive this thing soon!

Hey guys! It's been a while since I've posted. I've still got my postal wagon. I let ricearu borrow it because both his legacy and outback decided they wanted motor rebuilds. Well, my car has a quirk. It will work just long enough for another car to get going, then I have to tow it home with the truck. When Ricearu drove it this last time, the transmission decided that it didn't want the front diff to have teeth anymore. It still crawled it's way onto the trailer, but that's it. So far, I've upgraded the front brakes, converted the rears, put wrx struts wheels and lowering springs on it, build a 2.5/2.2 frankie motor for it, gt front bumper and wing, and an outback rear bumper. Now, because of previously mentioned transmission shredding, I've decided to do a 5mt swap to the car. Not nearly as easy as you think. It's been broken since june, and on jack stands since about august. I've found and installed a 4.11 trans and diff from a first gen 5 speed. And after a long and excessively stressful period of time I finally got the clutch pedal assembly from the UK. That's also been figured out to work. The only things I'm short now are the starter (which I had to hit to make work anyways) and the drive shaft. As it turns out, the front half of the drive shaft is about 1.5 inches shorter on the first gens vs the second gens. I can find the starter just fine, but I am having hell finding the correct driveshaft. I wanna drive my car!!! I don't wanna sound desperate, but I kinda am. Anybody know where I can get one that fits correctly? I think a forester might have the correct front length, but I'm not sure.

Alright. I know I've been gone for a while. Lots of bull has happened. I had to sell the pink 02 struts, but I got a set of 07 wrx shocks with sportline springs intaled and now the car sits almost completely level. The outback hood that I got didn't latch one day at the pump and flew up, breaking my windshield. Got them replaced, but had to go with a smooth hood. The scoop is still good on the outback hood, so I'm gonna see if I can chop it out and put it on the current one. The twin pot front brakes and the rear disk conversion was nice to. I got rid of the crappy scion wheels and slapped on a set of bug eye alloys. I also got my hands on a GT front bumper! The car looks friggin sweet now! Then, sadly, last thursday the water pump failed, overheated the engine, and blew the head gaskets sky high. I honestly am not surprised though. 300k+ on a motor that munches lucas about a quart every 150 miles was a hint. And that's just the car! It didn't help that my truck broke down and my computer took a giant crap either! Eh, such is life. Anyways, now I have a legitimate excuse to do a full teardown of the car and start from the ground up! If only I had some money to do this though... BTW, if anyone is interested, there's a front clip on CL with some parts I need. Here's the link. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?p=1082154#post1082154 Thing is, I can't afford a front clip but I can deliver almost anything. Maybe someone is interested?

Been doing a bit of research and found some things out. I still don't know if the inner parts are the same or not but, once again, nobody knows what "postal" means! I thought I had found a retailer with one for $500, but when I went to cash out it had the rich classified as a brighton rack. I looked up the part number and LO and BEHOLD! It came up with a list of parts that included, once again, every EJ vehicle. I hate parts distributors and like working with someone who I can actually TALK TO and confirm the part with rather than waiting for two weeks and paying shipping on a part that may or may not fit:banghead:. I've been talking to the newzealand guys and trying to see if I can get a rack and manual pedal assembly shipped here, but shipping from there is anal rape if it's a meter long or over... I love my car, but it's becoming a bit of a trailer whore...

If Subaru decides to make a hybrid, there's no doubt in my mind that it would be totally awesome, and get 60+MPG. However, knowing toyota, and the gas companies in america, it will end up being just as good as the prius. Slow to drive, not anywhere near it's potential, and worse for the environment than any other vehicle on the road today... When will people realize that car companies today don't give a crap about gas mileage or performance? All they care about now and days is making a vehicle that will just barely do what you want, and just barely stand out. Screw main stream cars, I want a Caterham Super7, and I'll stick with my preOBD Subaru wagon.

I actually had to do a bit of custom wiring on mine, so I can point you in the right direction. It should be right under the dash near the steering column. It isn't the one with a but load of wires, but the one that makes a "T" with the ECU. There should be a 8x2 (bigger of the three), 6x2 and a 10x2 clip that goes to it. Hope this helps, and best of luck!

And now for the real reason that it doesn't have AWD. It was swapped. Either the tranny, or the whole set was swapped out with a FWD prez (it's what we guessed). I wired up a torque converter lockup switch 'cause the TC would lock up for less that 30 seconds every trip, and I was getting pissed off at it. I also wired up a dutyC lockup switch so that I could find a driveshaft later on and have my AWD. There's only one way to find out if it works in this case. I lifted the front of the car and took a look. Ricearu saw that it had a plug on the back of the tranny and no shaft at all!!! That's also probably why it's throwing a transmission code. I don't think they swapped the TCU, so it's looking for stuff that just isn't there. On a positive note, When I lifted the car, I used the front tow hook (or lack thereof because they chopped them off for some idiotic reason) and lifted the car as much a possible with a 3 ton jack. The opposing shock compressed, and the other side of the car came up with it. It was nearly level! Only one click of a jack stand difference. Subaru Chassis stiffness FTMFW!!!!!

If there's no play, and the boots aren't toast, I would keep 'em on there. Do the inners have a jamb nut up against the outers? If so, who cares if they are easy to twist? All ball joints will do this regardless of age. All you have to do is twist a little harder. Plus, Is it worth screwing your currently good alignment to replace a few parts, then do it again for the others? In my opinion, save up, buy all the parts for the front end, and do all of the work at once so that you only have to align it once, and you don't have an odd mix of old and new parts screwing with each other. If you absolutely need an alignment beforehand, get a tape measure. Measure the distance between the same spots on the tires and get a wrench. Adjust until even or at the very least toed it just a hair. It's what I had to do to mine. Best of luck!

Glad to see you're alright man. The car looks pretty good for the speed you said you hit him at. The back doors even still opened like they should, and the only glass broken looked like the wind shield. I must admit, it looked pretty sweet beforehand to. I know the sentiment of wanting it back though. Once you find a car you love, you want to keep it forever. And it only gets worse when it disappears.....

Dunno. My only guess is that it was doing what Ricearu's lego was doing. His car had a habbit of skipping dutys A and B and just go straight into full lock for the rear shaft. Felt like a neutral drop with a compliment of front tire squeal. I picked the car up from a bunch of ricers who trashed it. They even cut off the muffler and didn't weld another back on. Not to mention the E-brake was completely useless and it was rolling on a doughnut.

Thanks Eulogious! I plan on getting a front TT clip and doing a manual swap in the near future, so I'm not that worried about the long term (60k+). The car needs a new rack and pinion, brake calipers, rotors, hub bearings, rear drive shaft, and the only way to get the JDM clutch pedal is to order the clip anyways, so I figure why not knock out everything at once. I do know fron experience that these cars are notoriously tough. Ricearu had a '93 lego wagon that started out as a Hertz rental car, then switched owners until he got it. The thing lasted until 250k+, and the motor still ran strong! The tranny is what died. Once again, thanks man.

I know the solenoid is good, because it actually will lick up and firm up the driveline. The problem I am having is that it will unlock itself after a very short time and never do it again until I restart the car. I just want to do it in fourth so I can have a "normally" operating transmission. Personally, I would rather install that third pedal and fix everything, but I have less than no money.

Small update. I figured out the REAL reason that the AWD doesn't work. Not only is that tranny flashing a code 16, but while I was putting the exhaust on last, I noticed that the rear diff isn't connected to anything. The driveshaft is GONE!!! I really hope this new job calls me soon so I can resume working on the car instead of driving it into the ground...

Just a question that I can't seem to find the answer to after spending the past 2 hours on Google. Everyone either says to not do do it, or that it is a great mod and it helped them out alot without providing much if any documentation:banghead:. I want to actually install a switch to lock up the torque converter, not read about the good and bad. I have a 95 lego postal with a bad MAP, and the TC only locks up once per trip for half a mile before deciding to keep the motor at 3k regardless of speed. I want to be able to lock it up so I can save some gas and my tranny fluid. The trans already throws a code 16, so I'm not worried about the electronics at this point. I'm kinda surprised that the info is so hard to find. I did a search for the duty C lockup mod and found a full writeup in a relatively short time. I'm hoping someone has a writeup or a link (preferably with pics) to one so that I can fix my car instead of hearing the "just fix it the right way" explanation. If I could afford to fix it, I would have bought a TT front clip by now. Thanks guys.

Ok. Time for a quick update. I got a new tie rod for it, and redid the rear brakes. The shes on the drivers side were worn so thin that the material was literally paper thin and falling off of the metal. The passenger side was in much better shape, but I figured out why when I took the drum off. The spring for the adjuster and the adjuster itself had fallen off inside the drum. That would explain why the E-brake didn't work to begin with. I called autozone sunday morning, and they said that they could get the parts in (shoes, hardware kit, and tie rod) by the afternoon. $70+ dollars later, I have a running and driving car again with the same crappy steering, but with a freaking awesome E-brake! Oddly enough, the new shoes DIDN'T come with a new clip to secure the new pin that DID come in the box. Anyone who's done drums knows that those clips are IMPOSSIBLE to salvage. I had to get the thing running though. It's insured and paid for unlike my truck which I had to borrow a large chunk of change just to keep. Stupid Durkas don't know how to treat their employees., but I cant find a job anywhere else at the moment. I would at LEAST like to work in a field that I was trained and certified for (collision repair), but no one is willing to give me a chance or even train me as a helper. Everyone want's "Experience", even for the helper position. Anyways, I'm driving it now.

An even MORE depressing update. I lost my job, am a month behind on my truck payments, have less than no money, and the car has been sitting in my front yard for over a month now. I told my boss about my epilepsy (yes, I do. And yes, it sucks), and not even one week later, he doesn't schedule me to work and asks me to come talk to him later. I show up and it turns out that he left before the time that he said for me to meet him. I called him and he told me that he couldn't afford to pay me, and that I was the last person hired, so I should pick up my check later. I go to pick up my check, and I see a truck that I don't recognize and the driver in the employee parking, and the bastard won't even come down and hand me the check personally. All I wanted to do at first was talk and see if there was any way I could keep my job, but now I want to set everything he owns on fire and burn his business to the ground. I just can't stand dishonest cowardly little pricks who talk out of every side of their mouth. This has happened twice now. Do you think I am justified in wanting this guy dead? Anyways, WAY off topic. I'll post up pics of the rack when I get it ordered if I ever get another steady job and if I still have a truck to drive...

Can't go wrong with a tape measure and a good eye for a cheap alignment.

Tried jhot. Unfortunately, they seem to be closing down. I shot them an email and they told me that they don't have anything for me, nor would they be getting anything else in at all. Do you know of any other importers around Dallas area?

Looks like it's got a turbo header to me.

I think they should work. I looked it up on o'riellys for the LHD models and the part numbers were exactly the same. I just wanted some kind of confirmation. BTW, i looked on ebay, and they dont understand the concept of RHD or postal. All of the racks posted said that they fit EVERY subaru with an EJ.

Hello all. I have a question. On my 1995 postal wagon, I ripped out the rack and saw that the teeth on the inner actual sliding part were chewed to hell, and I can only imagine the condition of the pinion with nearly 90 degrees of steering wheel play. Here's my problem. Rock auto has the unit posted without the core for just slightly more than o'rillys with the core. Problem being that they don't actually have the rack for the legacy available and won't let me add it to my cart. I looked up the RHD rack for an impreza an Lo and behold! They had it. And for cheaper than the lego rack! Hell, it even comes with inners too!!! My question is, since subaru doesn't like to break the designs of their cars or parts, would the rack from the prez bolt into the lego? Thanks guys!