zacyork

you could get the vehicle off the ground and run the car in gear. get a mechanics stethoscope next to the bearings. hopefully you will hear the bad bearing.

does the sound increase from engine rpm? or does the sound increase from faster driving? that could clue you in if its throwout bearing or a transmission bearing.

when the HG was replaced the first time did the head go to the machine shop? also was the block checked to make sure it was flat as well? just curious cause things can warp from overheating. just replacing the gasket doesnt always work.

very nice gc8 i have the same year and body , but mines an automatic glad to hear everyones safe looks like a nasty accident

zirgo is a great brand. also based in portland so you would be keeping the money local

those look good for the money. you might wanna check out the flexalite website if you dont mind spending a few extra bucks. they have a lot of sizes and styles to choose from. i have been very happy with this brand.

you might as well pull the cv axle out especialy if your taking the struts out anyway. strut compressor should be the only special tool needed.

i think your year had a non-inteference motor so if you get and obd1 2.2 block from lets say a legacy you should be good. i would be worried about obd2 ej22 blocks cause they went to an inteference motor. like 97+ impreza 2.2

its always possible for it to go out and not throw a code. it should tho. if its bad your timing will be retarted i think 8 degrees. that is one way to check.

check power at coil pack if there is power to the coil pack you could have a bad one. just another thing to check.

it could be other relays or fuses giving you problems. cover your butt and check them before you say its the ecu. thats usually the last thing you want to condone.

if the relay was stuck on it would not need the energizing wire. it would be like bridging the relay from power in to power out. the energizing wire would only have power with key on. no matter what the relay is doing.

i was under the impression that turbo EJ motors will not bolt up to non turbo ej transmissions. that they are different bell housings. i might be wrong tho

could be your main relay is stuck open. get a test light on the power wire exititing the relay and see if there is power with key off.

ya i guess that is possible for that screw to come off and cause problems. just never seen it happen before. guess im used to wedged on rotors. timing light could also shed light on this.

hahaha you are so right GD. thats why i quit working at a dealership and went on to a smaller shop with just two other mechanics.

he states that he is getting spark on all cylinders. if that rotor isnt spinning he wouldnt get spark on all cylinders. might be worth doing a compression test

welcome mrtn400. hopefully the dealership doesnt bend you over too far. they have been known to do that sometimes. you are ok with checking memory codes because that means the problem was bad enough to store the code. your better off with memory codes anyway cause sometimes checking current codes wont show you anything.just remember to clear your codes when your done.

pretty much taking the caliper off, take off rotor, onbolt strut, rear sway bar if equipped, lower control arm, cj shaft, etc untill you have the whole knuckle or hub assembly off. then take that to someone with a good press to replace pearing

if i remember right the rear wheel bearings are one giant sealed bearing that is pressed into the hub assembly

good luck with the U pull it. sounds like you have a good list. i would put that wheel bearing at the top of that list for safety reasons. if you got basic metric tools you can pull the whole hub off and take it to a machine shop to press it out.

gold hill oregon (just north of medford)

is this an old chevy thermostat housing? looks alot like one

sounds like tranny to engine mating problem

gonna need a bit more info. when it dies does it restart? if it doesnt restart you should see if its no spark or fuel. also is there any codes on your ecu?