naru

There is no excuse for them io be unable to tell you WHY they can not align it. Sounds to me like they just do not feel like they doing a free alignment.

Remove plug wires one at a time w/idling until you find the one(s) that do not make any difference. Check the plug and wires on those. Try leaving the gas cap loose. It is normal for the tank to hold a SMALL amount of pressure/vacuum.

Carter/Weber is a 1bbl.Hitachi is a 2 bbl. You do not need an ea82 intake. You want an ea81 Hitachi intake in order for the aftermarket Weber adapter to fit.

That is not a good example at all. Surely weight is a big factor. 2915 lbs. for a 4 speed GTHO and 4508 for a Ford Territory. That is 55% more.

+1 Change BOTH filters.

Force the taper back in to lock the stud then tighten the nut. Use the clearance to grind off the damaged threads. Or use a nut splitter

No,the specs are not even close according to my info. Subaru idle switch opens at 2.5 degrees.I-mark 16-18 Maybe there is enough adjustment to compensate,but who knows? The Subaru tps increases resistance w/opening throttle. The I-mark decreases resistance. BWD has a different part# for a SUBE one. Good luck finding a Lotus one. They were known for overpriced parts.

PM sent.

You are still having trouble with reading comprehension. I have a FSM too. It CONSTANTLY refers to the carb as a CARTER/WEBER Have a look at page 5-7 in your 84 manual. It is a diagram for 49 state 2wd Carter/Webers with an O2 sensor and computer.

Check ignition timing and fuel pressure.

Maybe it is time to check the MAF. Not a lot else controls the fuel and it is the major one. You should have about 1 volt flap closed between the YR and BR wires. 5 volts flap open full. Backprobe the connector or find the wires in the 6 pin red check connector under the dash, Make sure the ignition timing is good. You need to unplug the 2 pole connector between the distributor and the knock contol unit to set timing. You can use your fuel pressure gauge to see if the injectors hold pressure after shutdown. I pulled my injectors and put test tubes over the ends overnight to finally pinpoint the culprit,

I`d bring the air bleed line into the cabin,put an aquarium type air valve on it and slowly and slightly open the valve until the high airlow over richness is tuned out. Might be a temporary solution for a single altitude.

I don`t know what you are talking about,but,your motor has a mechanical fuel pressure regulator

I`ll ask again. 3rd gear weirdness only w/the altitude compensator blocked? I don`t think your rebuilder knows what he is talking about. Has he ever run a carb w/the fuel level at the bottom of the sight glass? I have. They don`t run very well. Makes me question the quality of your rebuild. Changed the jets? Scary! I do not think there is a fuel level problem either,but,I would check. I suspect you are running a little rich w/the compensator blocked. 3rd gear is different from 2nd at the same rpm because there is more airflow(throttle open more) The air bleeds that the compensator and orfices feed have more effect at higher flow rates. There are not a lt of specs for the compensator. Closed at low altitude and opens at some unspecified point. I suspect it needs to be open a little at 1750 feet.Maybe yours opens too wide too soon. Compare it to others. I would try some junkyard ones and maybe experiment w/different orfices(valve?) inline

You need 36 psi above manifold pressure. So,28-29 at idle 36 engne stopped 42 at full boost. I used an Airtex E8312 in my car.

No they won`t. You need a pump strong enough to have decent flow at 42 psi for a road test under boost. A lot of EFI pumps are not strong enough. Stock fuel pressure ratings are not directly related to stock horsepower ratings. If they were,those old CIS injected VWS w/80 psi would have been real powerhouses.

3rd gear weirdness only w/the altitude compensator blocked? Maybe it needs to be open a little. What is your altitude? I don`t think it is your problem,but,I would make sure the fuel level is correct by shutting the car off w/it behaves badly, coasting to a stop and examining the carb sight glass.

PM sent.

85-86 best,83-84 is very similar There are other 86 donor canidates.

That is an 86 turbo ECU and associated flapper MAF. You need a different diagram from the 89 hotwire MAF system.

Sounds like a weak fuel pump.

I replaced the shielded ECU wire and spliced my O2 sensor wire w/a microphone connector like this http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/XLR_connector. Not a big deal, I suppose you could run it w/o the o2 sensor and boost egr and purge solenoids hooked up. IAC too.

Mark the position of the distributor body in relation to the engine. Mark the rotor position relative to the distributor body, If you duplicate these settings upon reinstallation,you are golden. I would not do it though.

Another possibility is that all of the above are OK,but,the carb is marginaly lean already and the control valve leaning it out a little more by opening the air bleeds at high underhood temps pushes it over the edge. If so,I`d be looking at the altitude compensator. It controls the air bleeds as well. It might be open too wide. It should be closed at low altitude. Try blocking it.

Underhood temps in the 49 state 4wd diagram I looked at. It opens(widens?) the primary barrel air bleeds thus leaning the carb out.