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naru

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Everything posted by naru

  1. naru
    Grinding sounds are not good. Probably a bad starter drive. Looks like complete starters are cheaper than buying it seperately though.
  2. naru
    A. No,it only confirms that is functional electricly,but this is all that matters as far as the code is concerned. For a full functionality test you would need to power it up and confirm the valve opens and closes. B. No.It only confirms the power supply(even that not really) ECU operates the solenoid by connecting ground to the always powered solenoid. This does not check the ground side of the circuit. A high resistance connection on the power side could give full voltage to an ungrounded solenoid but have low voltage w/the ground connected and current flowing. C. I think so.Probably a bad harness connector especially since the EGR sets a code too. The EGR temp sensor should be over 250 ohms unplugged. This one will set code 55 not 34. See page 71 section 2-7 of the ea82 manual mentioned above.
  3. naru
    Ignitor
  4. naru
    There is no extra fuel. There is a LACK of fuel due to the low venturi vacuum.
  5. naru
    Depends which port is broken. If it is the one going to the intake manifold,then quite possibly. If not,then no. I think(not 100% sure) the steel port is the one connected to the manifold,so probably not.
  6. naru
    Engine section of a REAL 89 manual here http://jdfinley.com/file-downloads/subaru-manuals/
  7. naru
    89s don`t have seperate air charge temp/ sensors. You are looking at the wrong chart. Code 35 is for the purge solenoid. There is a picture here http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/157839-loyal-wont-start-need-help-plea/ It is located on the RH side of the engine. Test it by unplugging and putting an ohmmeter or 12 volts across it.It should click w/12 volts or read about 36 ohms. Pretty common for the coil to be open. Code 34 is for the EGR. Normally this indicates an open EGR solenoid coil. The EGR solenoid looks just like the purge solenoid evcept it has a white plug. It is located just slightly towards the centre of the car from the purge solenoid. Test it the same way as the purge solenoid. Since you presumably have a california spec car there is another possibility for code 34. They have an egr temp.sensor that detects whether there is actually any EGR flow. The code will set on california cars if the tubes are plugged or the sensor is wonky.(or the solenoid is bad) Check the solenoid first. I have an EGR solenoid if you need one.
  8. naru
    I think you mean a Rochester 2G(x). I don`t think you will ever get the response you want. The primary venturi is too big. AFAIK,the smallest engine to use these carbs had more than double the displacement of your Sube. There just isn`t enough airflow off idle to develop sufficient venturi vacuum.
  9. naru
    Plug the disconnected vacuum lines. It will probably start. All the solenoid does is to allow the engine to purge gasoline vapour from the charcoal cannister.
  10. naru
    145 ft lbs if 4wd. If 2wd,adjust it like the front wheels on an older RWD car. Seat the bearings and then loosen until you have a little play w/shaking the wheel.
  11. naru
    Hold down springs and pins. You want a brake hardware kit like one of these. https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/subaru,1984,gl,1.8l+h4,1268344,brake/wheel+hub,drum+brake+hardware+kit,1752 The adjusters are often seized.Might need some penetrating oil on those.
  12. naru
    Non rotating rebuild parts are the same for all the RHB5s except some non sube ones have wider bearings. I think my kit came w/both widths.
  13. naru
    The ebay RHB5 rebuild kits fit ea81 and ea82 turbos equally well. I have one I have not used yet.
  14. naru
    That is the underhood temperature sensor. It mounts on the heat shield near the turbo attached to the spare tire support crossmember. It turns on the fan when hot.
  15. naru
    By your knee.Its kinda hidden.
  16. naru
    Put your meter between the black harness wire attached to the ground point and the battery negative clamp. There is no better ground than battery negative.
  17. naru
    Yes,the idle switch should be closed w/a .012 inch feeler gauge and open w/a .030
  18. naru
    Your Subaru dealer does not know what they are talking about. If you had a short,then you would have blown fuses/fusible links and they would be able to point you in a certain direction,at least. Make sure you have power on both sides of the green fusible link and on both sides of fuse #2. Sounds more like a loose ground connection to me. Find the common ground located above the fuse box and put a voltmeter between the harness and battery negative w/the car on. Should be close to 0.0 volts.If not,there is a ground problem.
  19. naru
    721058060 outer arm 721047000 inner arm 741321110 diff bracket and bushing assy. 622004020 mustache bar bushing
  20. naru
    That is the secondary air filter. It filters air entering the carburetor air bleeds thru the duty solenoids. Both ports should breathe freely.
  21. naru
    Get a new switch.
  22. naru
    Not too many on an 85 turbo. #32 is a .5mm one (22326 KA000) http://parts.subaru.com/a/Subaru_1985_DLGLGL10RSRXTURBO/_54102_6026554/INTAKE-MANIFOLD-MPI/A10-050-C1.html Note that all 85 turbos did not use it. eg.GL 10 and 4wd XTs did but plain(2wd?) GL XTs did not. #35 is 1mm (22326 AA010) Those look to be the only 2. Both seem to be still available despite the webpage. Not saying it is your problem,but,I would check fuel pressure as a VERY early diagnostic step. 36 psi engine off,about 28 at idle. Most importantly,you want a good flow at 43 psi(required pressure at max. boost) I use a bicycle pump to put 7 psi on the regulator(simulating boost) and hotwire the pump by jumpering the relay contacts. I would also put a voltmeter on the phase correction signal wire from the knock control computer in case it is pulling timing back.Pretty sure you can sample the signal at a check connector under the dash.
  23. naru
    Factory turbos have a 5 for the 7th VIN "digit". Use the 84+ injected code chart.
  24. naru
    That piece is a seperate thermostat that controls heat to the carb base. Most people don`t know it exists. I think you could safely eliminate it for the winter at least.(replace it w/an elbow) Might make the manifod too warm in summer though. You could block that line in summer if necessary. Looks to be a discontinued part.41720 7010 I do not think you need to turn the "bolt".
  25. naru
    Scary fast record lap around the Isle of Man. 37 miles in 19 minutes. No sissy racetrack here. Had to share with the brethren. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=t7gmbQ8KxM4 This is even scarier.
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