naru

Correct

Sounds normal. You need to step on the gas once before starting a carbed car in order to set the fast idle.

1.The choke needs to be closed w/the correct amount of spring tension. 2.The choke unloader opens the choke about 1/8 inch(check specs) with engine cranking vacuum. Choke fully closed is too much choke once the engine turns 3 The fast idle adjustment is completetly seperate from the curb idle adjustment. Set curb idle to 800 warm Set the fast idle to about 1700 w/cold There is a photo of the fast idle screw here http://datsun1200.com/modules/mediawiki/index.php?title=DGV_connections_and_adjustments Or,#65 here http://www.carburetion.com/diags/3236DGAVDiaginfo.asp

Forget about the pump and filter. VERY unusual for them to be related to STARTING problems. You need to 1 Adjust the choke 2 Adjust the choke unloader 3 Adjust the fast idle speed

The other fuses

Yours will be a stripped hub or broken front CV joint. Moving only in 4wd is the big clue.

In the vent line under the car after the fuel seperator. If the valve is OK,you should be able to blow into the tank w/SOME restriction. Kinda sounds the the valve was gummed up and is now free.

Doubt the vent line is plugged. The vent line is NOT supposed to be completely free flowing. There is a "2 way" valve inline. It holds a certain amont of pressure in the tank before it opens.(2psi I think) Likewise.it holds a certain amount of vacuum before opening. You should not be able to blow freely thru the vent. If you can,the 2 way valve is fubared.

It must be this unique Subaru https://baltimore.craigslist.org/grd/5972484148.html

Code 55 is the EGR temperature sensor. It indicates either the valve is not operational or the tubes are blocked w/crud. Possible bad sensor too.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Genuine-EMPI-62-Manual-Choke-Cable-EPC-32-36M-EPC-38-32-36-DGV-Weber-/322359508726?hash=item4b0e1fbef6:g:tc8AAOSwo4pYUWHL&vxp=mtr#ht_1969wt_972 http://www.ebay.com/itm/Empi-43-5352-Manual-Choke-Element-Weber-DGV-Empi-EPC-Carburetors-Each-/112306199262?hash=item1a25f89ade:g:CYQAAOSwr~lYplG4&vxp=mtr#ht_1961wt_996 http://www.ebay.com/itm/Weber-carb-MANUAL-CHOKE-kit-with-CABLE-32-36-DFEV-DGEV-DGAV-DGAS-CARBuretor-/322348685762#ht_688wt_907

Any chance 1 digit is incorrect? 642130440 is for 77-78 DL wagons.

You should be adjusting the choke not the idle mixture.

It is not relays. There are no relays in an 84 brat ignition system. Use a multimeter to pinpoint the problem by measuring voltage on BOTH sides of the switch and the fuse(#13).Same with the fusible link.

Nope.Different

Ummm.... Good question. 1984 Parts book shows both bearing holders,Says the big one is 4wd,small one all 1600s and non 4wds Book also shows 2 clutch forks,Says one is for 1600s the other for ALL 1800s To me,this means the 1800 fork fits either bearing holder,but,maybe it is a glitch in the listing. Part # for the 1800 fork is 431617200 in case you need one. Looks to be still available.$35 Pretty sure there is only one size of "input shaft"

431527100 is the part# for the larger bearing holder. About $30

You could not have looked very hard for those logical argruments.. The EGR lowers combustion chamber pressures and temperatures. Your present ignition system is optimized for EGR operation. With EGR removed you now have too much ignition advance at cruise.(pinging,engine stress etc.) Now,I suppose you are going to say "but i didn`t hear any pinging after removing the egr". That just means your hearing is bad or the timing was not advanced enough in the first place, Back off the timing and now you do not have enough advance in non cruise sitiuations. No loss at all IF the ignition advance curve is suitably modified. How many people do that? Then there is the matter of engine pumping losses. Without EGR the engine expends energy pumping air it does not need. You will suffer a small MPG decrease because of increased energy expended. EGR and pumping losses http://www.autospeed.com/cms/article.html?&title=EGR-Comeback&A=112612 There is no power whatsoever to be gained by removing the EGR. Maybe 1lb weight savings.

You heard wrong. Leave it alone.You will lose performance slightly.

Check for leaky injectors. See if the car holds fuel pressure at shutdown.

Looking at them is not good enough. You need to put your voltmeter between the grounds on the ECU plug and battery negative w/engine on. Anything much more than zero indicates trouble. Same w/the ECU power leads except here you want 12 volts. That was sure some rude fuel.

You should not be playing w/the idle stop screw. The idle contacts are adjusted by moving the TPS,not the idle stop screw. Reset the idle stop by adjusting it so that the throttle plate has the minimium possible opening w/closed without binding. THEN adjust the TPS so that the idle contacts are closed w/a .012" gap and open w/a .031" gap. An unmetered air leak is a common cause of a high idle too. An unmetered air leak is a leak between the MAF and the throttle plate.

Indeed,the manual trannys have a synchro on the 4wd engagement gears. Can`t see a lubeless rear diff being the OPs problem as the rear diff turns whether 4wd is engaged or not.

Works OK cold? Smooth idle w/warm? Sounds like a vacuum or unmetered air leak to me. I would put a vacuum gauge on it and check any and all hoses near the intake, airbox and throttle body. EGR valves can be hard to clean so that they seat 100%. I would expect a non-seating EGR to give a poor warm idle. Probably not it,but,I would check the coolant temperature sensor too. Ideally,read the engine temp. w/a scanner. Less ideal,read the sensor resistance w/warm w/a ohmmeter. OR,leave the CTS unplugged and go for a drive. You will get a check engine light if you don`t already have one. Not sure about the empty bolt hole.

NO!!! It is probably a free fix. Having THOSE 3 codes at the same time suggests a bad connectiion at the engine wiring harness connector to me. Or maybe a bad ground connection for the ECU at the engine. Unlikley all 3 would be bad at the same time. I had something similar on my car w/the engine harness connector was slightly loose. Measure the resistance of the coolant temperature sensor to see if it ACTUALLY is bad. It needs to be VERY bad to set a code. You can measure resistance of the TPS and the IAC coils too. See details in section 2-7 of the EA82 manual here http://jdfinley.com/file-downloads/subaru-manuals/