naru

You are much more likely to experience carb icing in warmish Washington than bitter cold Idaho. Carb icing danger is greatest at outside air temperatures ABOVE freezing. This applies to any carb. I`ve seen it on a stock carb w/the heat stove disabled. Here is a good read on the subject https://www.atsb.gov.au/publications/2009/carburettor-icing/ Have a look at the chart. Lack of carb heat after tossing the stock aircleaner is a downside of a weber conversion.

The truth is real webers have not been made in Italy since the factory closed in 1992. The production tooling was moved to Spain. The Spanish webers are real webers. Any Italian webers are 20+ years old.

6th digit is the engine code.

Ummm.....Subaru http://parts.subaru.com/p/Subaru__XT/HOSE-BMPINATURBO/49288107/807515402.html

Hose is 8075 15402

NFG=No Frigging Good

Might just be a plugged fuel filter. Any codes? I`d be looking at the wiring harness connectors too.

More than 1 issue. 1. Your new alternator is NFG-voltage regulator. 2.Bad ground or power supply to the interior.Probably ground. Interior ground is under(above really) the fusebox, Measure the voltage between here and battery - w/wipers etc.operating. Check power by measuring voltage between the lighter socket and battery - w/wipers on. Have a look at the wire between battery positive and the fusible link box. I had to redo the connections on both ends. Measure voltage on both sides of the fusible links.

Presumably,you are referring to an ea-81 as the ea-82 gear is on the camshaft. I have done an ea-81.No major disassembly required,IIRC.

OK,move on to check ignition timing,distributor centrifugal advance and engine compression.

My money is on a bad ground. You can prove it by putting your voltmeter between the grounded side of the headlight and battery negative(lights on). Should be 0 volts but won`t be. The actual ground point is likely in the interior. Bad relay contacts would have the same effect. Relays can click and still be bad.Try swapping them around.

Sounds like a plugged exhaust to me. Check w/a vacuum gauge or drop the exhaust off the heads a little.

Good luck. They never were very reliable. I think almost all quit working some time ago. Some folks swap in analog ones,but,it is a pain.

No,it means power is "consumed" at the resistance thus overheating it. Power loss = current squared times the resistance A side effect would be lower volts and amps available to the load(the pump). I would cut the offending wires from the plugs and solder them together. There is nothing wrong w/your pump.Problem is a bad connector.

There is really only one reason for melted plugs. High resistance at a connection. I would jumper the plug for those wires by soldering in some wires. Your pump may draw a little more than stock,but,I do not see it being an issue.

The voltage varations look too small. It barely ever makes it to the rich side of 0.45 volts.(if I`m reading voltage correctly). You should see up to .8 -.9 volts on upward swings. Any lower and the catylast will not stay hot enough to be fully active. How does the waveform compare w/the one from your other emission passing car? How does the O2 sensor voltage/waveform react to propane enrichment? To a sudden vacuum leak? To blipping the throttle? Here are some typical waveforms http://www.autolabscopediagnostics.com/sensors2.html Might just be a bad sensor.

It won`t be a ground short.The starter would not work. Check for opens/high resistances by unplugging thr ecu and putting your ohmmeter between the appropiate pin and the starter motor connector. Better yet,leave it plugged in and backprobe the connector w/a voltmeter. Pull the fuel pump fuse or relay. Note the voltage w/starter cranking. The ECU uses this signal to furthur enrich the mixture for starting. I have not seen it and I don`t follow the logic,but,apparently sometimes the ECU becomes confused when it does not see the start signal which causes subsequent running problems Something to think about.

Cool!

Also known as an idle stop solenoid. It will kill the idle if it does not work. Plenty of effect on the idle speed.

Mixture screw all the way in means the idle circuit is getting NO fuel. A rough adjustment would be 2-3 turns out from bottomed. Don`t bottom it hard,they are delicate. Choke has to be wide open and the idle speed screw should not touch the fast idle cam w/adjusting idle speed and mixture. Do a rough adjustment on the mixture and then see if you can reduce rpm w/the speed screw.

Yes,that is the solenoid. It is normal for the rpm to change w/mixtiure changes. I`m surprised it has any effect at that rpm. Since the engine responds to idle mixture changes,that suggests the solenoid is OK, I`d check it anyway. I`d be checking to see if the secondary throttle is hung open. Recently had one w/high idle for that reason.

Long one is the throttle stop/idle speed screw. Bottom one is the idle mixture screw. It only adjusts idle mixture and will have no effect above about 1000 rpm as the carb will be running on the main circuit rather than the idle circuit. Check the solenoid.

http://www.autozone.com/repairguides/Subaru-ff-1-1300-1400-1600-1800-Brat-1970-1984-Repair-Guide/Carbureted-Fuel-System/Carburetor/_/P-0900c15280065ae8

Sounds like the idle stop solenoid is inoperative/unpowered or the idle circuit in the carb is otherwise blocked. Check for power at the solenoid.It should click w/applied power. If it is fubared,you can gut it to open the idle passage.

Looks good to me.