naru

They do not CONTROL idle speed. Affect yes,control no.

Those are not idle control valves. They are auxilary air valves.They have no feedback idle control ability,but merely respond to temperature and time. A failed one will not result in a sudden low idle that cures itself w/a restart.

Does the idle switch close on the new TPS? If not,you could jumper the harness for the purpose of setting base timing.

That sounds like a sticky idle speed control. OOPS-forgot your MPFI and do not have one. I would check fuel pressure and watch the O2 sensor voltage for clues.

Here are a couple http://www.ebay.com/itm/Subaru-15066AA010-Engine-Oil-Pump-Gasket-Oil-Pump-Gasket-/322527923150?epid=1222248047&hash=item4b18298bce:g:IioAAOSwZ4dZJeGQ&vxp=mtr ....or maybe not once you read the fine print

Because the computer adjusts fuel mixture,timing and idle speed according to the coolant temperature. Try running it w/the CTS disconnected. 23 psi is a little high,but,I do not think it would result in severe running problems.

Obvious starting point is a fuel pressure check. 38 psi is much too high. SPFI should be around 21 psi. Better double check the regulator and return line.

This is BS. You want the highest octane possible on a turbo car. Even 93 is still crap.

or adjust the rears or replace the master cylinder or proportioning valve (if so equipped). Definetly something wrong w/yours.

Normally,the pump is powered by a special relay called a revolution sensor. It will only power the pump when it sees primary ignition pulses from the coil.(engine must be turning) Pump voltage SHOULD be 0 or 12V. Not uncommon for those relays to go bad and be difficult to source thus the wiring hack job. The revolution sensor is located either under the dash or hood depending on year/model. Not sure about yours. Search revolution sensor for more info. I would add a normal relay triggered by the ignition switch if unable to source a revolution sensor. You lose the safety feature of the pump stopping w/the engine then though. Some folks have cleared the tank line/sock w/compressed air. Subaru stupidly made the sock non-servicable. Only car I have ever heard of w/this terrible feature.

Where are you getting 2.7 ? The pump should have 0.0 volts unless the engine is actually turning.

The idle switch needs to be working.<br />They tell you to MAKE SURE it is CLOSED for a reason.<br /><br />TPS part number is 22633 AA051 for an 89 MPI.<br /><br />I disassembled mine to clean the idle switch.

I would at least attempt to repair the automatic. Might be much simplier than a tranny swap. Could be something as simple as a brake band adjustment or leaking control valve gasket. A lot of parts ARE still available. My own 1984 turbo automatic still works well and I certainly don`t baby it. I like the automatic around town.Torque multiplication from the torque convertor is very useful in stop and go driving. Mine will spin the tires in a slightly low traction situation.

I would not be so sure. We used to machine ALL of the brand new FACTORY rotors at a dealership I once worked at. They were all warped. I have seen warped new aftermarket rotors too.

To lessen the danger of burning a valve.

That rack is for an ea-81 engined car,not ea-82 like yours.

Bad spark plugs or weak spark.

IF you are a big fan of getting data and trying to repair based on that information, then why don`t you measure the solenoid voltage instead of farting around?

Does anybody know if EA82 radios fit EA81 consoles?

You should realize by now that,IT IS NOT THE STARTER. Rather,the cause is high resistance connections in the high current starter solenoid circuit. Could be ignition switch.neutral safety switch or any of the intervening connections. Confirm by checking and comparing solenoid voltage to battery voltage during a no start episode.(solenoid connected) Either find the offending component or add a relay so that high solenoid current does not have to go thru the faulty circuit.

Use the vertical one to set base idle to 700 for manual and 800 for auto w/engine fully warm. The horizontal one only adjusts fast idle when the FICD(fast idle control device- a solenoid) is energized.(AC on) Dunno about the needles

I had to bypass the neutral safety switch to get mine to start relieably. Put an ohmmeter on yours. I had 7 ohns intermittently. Even slightly bad contacts are enough to upset the low resistance solenoid circuit.

If yours is SPFI(I think so) then the thing on the coil bracket is a transistor ignition amplifier. If it is bad or poorly grounded,you will not have spark. Any codes? Got 12 volts at coil - w/KOEO ? Try another coil bracket,if possible.

84 subarus do not use a coil resistor and if they did,the resistor would not be connected to ground. Sounds like you are talking about the noise suppression capacitor. Nothing connected to the coil has anything to do w/engine cranking. Match a replacement coil to your disty.Hitachi w/hitachi etc.

825504100 at any subaru dealer