naru

Coolant temperature sensor. Use a scanner to check cold engine temp..

I think you have a lean misfire based on the unlit O2 led, unsteady idle, and high HC. IIRC.the O2 monitor will light w/the mixture toggles rich.Unlit is lean.Steady unlit is steady lean(once warmed up). You can use a digital voltmeter to monitor the O2 sensor output to see what it THINKS is going on. I would probably feed the motor a little propane at idle to see if anything changes.

Vacuum advances are hard to come by these days. Pretty sure I sold my last spare. Your options are to find a rebuilder, a used one from a wrecker,or buy a complete rebuilt disty.. A member has reported success by modifying an 82 civic one as per this thread http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/134642-vacuum-advance-cross-ref-question/ They are easy to swap.You do not need a mechanic. Probably won`t fix your traumatic uphill behavior.Hope I`m wrong. Plug the vacuum line until the leaky one is replaced. Traumatic uphill behavior in the cold is usually choke related. Check the choke adjustments and the pull off diaphragm. If the traumatic uphill behavior is allweather,then check the fuel level in the carb sight glass immediately after it misbehaves. There is a chance that your traumatic uphill behavior is due to carb icing. I`ve seen it on a sube w/the carb. heat stove disabled. Check for this by removing the aircleaner promptly after trouble starts and looking for ice in the carb throat. Carb icing is most likely when outside temperatures are ABOVE freezing and the humidity is high Leaky oil pumps are common. Pumps are available,but,the leaks are fixed by replacing the 5 or 6 now hardened o rings that seal the pump. I resealed the pump on my 84 turbo a while ago.Not too bad of a job. The leak is paticularly annoying on a turbo as the oil drips directly on the exhaust w/waiting at stoplights. No my car is not on fire!

http://parts.boisesubaru.com/p/Subaru__/BUSHING-COMPLETE-SELECT-LEVER/49264326/633011330.html

More like $48,not $480. http://www.ebay.com/itm/HELI-COIL-STANLEY-ENGINEERED-FASTENING-THD-REPAIR-KIT-M11X1-25-METRIC-/321991569302?hash=item4af8316f96:g:bRAAAOSw1DtXKlth&item=321991569302&vxp=mtr#ht_1933wt_982

Try here http://www.jp-carparts.com/subaru/partlist.php?maker=subaru&car_baseid=F13009&type=G10&cartype=015&fig_id=100

I doubt very much the plug is your problem. Bad plugs do not wait 30 seconds under high load to misfire. Rather,misfires at the top of a hill are CLASSIC symptoms of fuel starvation. I would monitor fuel pressure as the misfiring occurs. I would try to change the plug regardless.

Sounds like an EGR tube. This may help http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/137829-using-a-non-egr-engine-in-subaru-with-egr-exhaust-gas-recirculation-valve/

Not according to Subaru. They want you to tighten them until the lifter bleeds down to its fully collasped position and then back them off. Seems like a screwy procedure to me too, I think something was lost in translation. They have you loosen the adjuster until there is "free play" and then loosen more. This does not make sense to me.The lifter plunger spring will take up any free play until the lifter is fully expanded. I think that when they say "freeplay" they really mean the pushrod is free to spin(no valve spring pressure on the pushrod). The way I see it,the only way to get freeplay is to have the lifter fully expanded. Obviously,you do not want to loosen any furthur than this. I think this is exactly what happened. The difference in the amount of threads showing above the adjusters between the 2 motors is a big clue

Check fuel pressure.

Not so fast. EA81T crankcases (not just shortblocks) have a different part # than regular automatic crankcases. Must be SOME difference. No need to machine the block for rod bearings. Unless a main bearing has spun(does not sound like it) there is no need to line bore Been there done that. An additional suggestion-Ticking sounds a bit like a cracked piston.

Top one to the intake. Bottom one to the bypass pipe.

The dealer. 429547102 REVOLUTION SENSOR Does not sound like your problem however. Check it by monitoring fuel pump voltage w/a meter. Problem seems more like a plugged filter sock/filter/weak pump. High fuel demand pulls crud into the sock.It drops off again w/engine off.

The ticking sounds like it is at valve speed. Almost sounds like a hydraulic lifter collaspes lower engine speed/oil pressure. Definetly not normal. Not sure about the higher RPM rumble and vibration. Does it happan w/the car not moving? It is not normal either.

I do not see how the engine swap is relevant. Check for voltage at the brake/tailamp socket. If OK,then repair the shared ground point for the rear lights.

Nothing mythical about them. You could not have looked very hard. Must be 25 of them on ebay. http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=p2047675.m570.l1313.TR0.TRC0.H0.Xrhb5+kit.TRS0&_nkw=rhb5+kit&_sacat=0

I do not know of any info source for JDM EA-81Ts I have always been curious how they differ. Surely there must be a JDM service manual somewhere. It looks like YOU are the expert. I think your LH vacuum line may connect to the purge control valve on the charcoal cannister. Is yours equipped w/an electronic purge solenoid? I would be interested in the ECU part # and any other differences you notice. North American EA-81Ts did not use electronic EGR control in 83 or 84. A study of EA-82T vacuum routing may be helpful Operating parameters of the Electronic EGR Vacuum Valve will be similar as well.

It is the crankshaft O ring. 413967100 Looks discontinued,but,I`m sure you can find a subsitute.

Yes it does. You should always have SOME resistance in sender circuits to limit the current. I use a 10 turn potentiometer to check gauge calibrations.

See page 66 section 2-7 of the ea82 manual mentioned above. I would backprobe the Green/blue wire (pin 5) at the ECU connector w/key on looking for 12V(or an alternating voltage w/the test mode connectors connnected) My money is on a faulty harness connector under the hood.Page 31 section 2-7 may help.

Rear CVs do not have seals,but,the stub axles do. 8067 32030 Same for the Front 8067 27040 LH,....27030 RH Good luck getting Subaru to look them up. Even if those slackers had a parts catalog,it says the RH one is auto only

Hmmm..... That doesn`t sound right. If it is hooked to holes below the throttle,that gives manifold vacuum which is the opposite of venturi vacuum at smallish throttle openings. I thought the vacuum passages were internal to the carb. Sure you looking at the correct one?

Secondary diaphram gets its vacuum from the primary venturi. More primary airflow = more vacuum. You will have a hard time getting it to move w/no load on the engine.

Pretty sure you have EA82 axles. The listings are wrong. Suretrack lists the same axle for EA81/82.WRONG Look up parts for an 84 to be sure you are getting EA81 stuff.

No they are different. https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/subaru,1984,gl,1.8l+h4,1268344,drivetrain,cv+joint+boot,2284